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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

I been searching for a 6.0 for quite some time and ended up purchasing a very neglected 2006 F250 6.0 PSD 2WD w/240k and had it shipped from Texas to Nevada. This is my first ever truck purchase, but I consider myself fairly handy.


Luckily for me I have a friend who's very knowledgeable and patient with all the questions I had throughout fixing it. The point of this thread is to help a noob, or anyone else out with the issues I had and hopefully run across this thread at some point for troubleshooting.

The first issue I had was I ran the truck out of fuel the first 20 miles I had it. I had just over a quarter tank of fuel which left me on the side of the road. Little did I know all hell broke loose.

-Filled the tank up and found the fuel level sender is trashed and gave me an inaccurate reading.
-Upon filling up I was skipping heavily. I changed both fuel filters with Motocraft and found cheaper brands installed, but didn't fix anything.

At this point I decided to take my friend's advice and get rid of the EGR cooler and make sure to change the oil cooler while I was in there. I pulled the truck apart and found the EGR cooler looked to be a Dorman and didn't look very old. I pulled the oil cooler and appeared to be OEM in good condition.

-Installed Ebay EGR delete
-Installed XDP oil cooler (I know...)
-Inspected standpipe (was updated)
-Pulled the IPR and replaced the screen (old one was clean)
-Pulled the HPOP plate, verified the new fitting and installed new gasket and o-rings
-Pulled the turbo apart and checked shaft play. I found the unison ring was completely seized. After grinding and cleaning I was able to have it turn.
-Installed refurbished injectors on the passenger side
-Installed new ICP sensor and pigtail
-Cleaned MAP sensor hose/barb
-Installed dorman(?) FICM harness ($45 on ebay, real cheap but seems ok)
-Poured in T6 5-40 w/ new motocraft filter and cap

At this point I'm feeling confident. I fire the truck up after some priming and cranking and it's purring as it should I'm VERY happy...until 20 minutes later I start running rough and skipping again. ****.

I didn't have any tools to check to see if this is oil pressure related and didn't want to go to Autozone and buy a Scangauge II for two different reasons. One, beacause it's overpriced in my opinion and two it's ugly. I downloaded Forscan, but not to my surpise my ELM327 bluetooth and wired OBDII plugs are fake and won't load up on the laptop. I installed my android head unit and downloaded torque pro. That app doesn't seem to care that the ELM327's were fake and was able to read all the PID's I need.

Verified IPR and IPC pressures are in spec. At idle I was seeing an IPR of 23% and IPC pressures were around 600 and FICM at 49 volts. My oil and coolant temp were within one degree of each other on straight up distilled water. From what I can tell that's 100% spot on for 105 degree Desert heat and 2500ft elevation.

This time I hooked up an oil pressure gauge from harbor freight to the FPR. I found that I had about 50psi of fuel pressure at idle, and when to about 38psi under load. Fine. That seems low so I ordered the blue spring kit everyone is talking about.

-Installed the blue spring kit
-Drained the distilled water and poured in CAT ELC as reccomended by my friend
-Poured in 64oz of hotshots Anti-stiction

After checking the pressure again at idle I'm dang near 70psi and it seemed to clear up my rough idle. I drove around a bit and all was well for a couple days BUT now, as I build boost I'm hearing a tea kettle scream type of sound anything beyond 15psi. Great, my Y pipe is cracked.

A combined 100 miles later I started running rough on the highway and died on the side of the road. It felt fuel related and about 5 minutes later I was able to crank back up and get back on the road for another 5 miles until it happened again.

At this point I assumed I didn't torque down the injectors right even though I thought I did. After finding various results I thought maybe the 28ft/lb spec was a little low. I got the truck home, pulled the injectors and the seals still looked brand new. I looked down the holes and nothing obvious that would cause an improper seal. So again, I head down to ford and spend another X amount on overpriced parts. I think I spent 50 bucks on four injector seals.

This time I resealed the injectors, torqued the T40 hold downs to 31ft/lb checked for air leaks with the air attachment through the ICP hole I bought off amazon and thought all was well. I drove around for another 20 minutes until I was confident to hit the highway. I shouldn't of done that because again, I was dead on the side of the road frustrated as to WHAT in the hell this issue can be. To add to the frustration I'm leaking oil from my valve cover gaskets and somewhere in the valley. So I'm sitting on the side of the road with this POS truck that I really just want to get driving properly. At this point I'm figuring combustion pressure is getting through somewhere on the passenger side again.

After hours upon hours of annoying my friend, researching youtube through the help of dieseltechron, powerstrokehelp and a couple other youtubers I go ahead and check my fuel pressure, this time under load on the highway until I start to skip again. And boom...I think I found the issue. The fuel pressure holds true for a solid 20 minutes UNTIL it basically goes down to around 10. I immediately add the fact that I run out of fuel at 1/4 and the fuel pressure together and thought the screens were clogged.

-Dropped the tank to realize the screens are a 7.3 thing, not a 6.0 but found the fuel strainer/showerhead looking thing to be completely broken apart in my tank. I also had bits of it stuck in the straw.
-Pulled apart the fuel sender, cleaned it throughly with electronics spray
-Did the hutch mod
-Replaced two more failed injectors
-Replaced the XDP gasket that was leaking from the oil cooler with OEM
-Replaced valve cover gasket

Now I re-installed the clean tank thinking my **** don't stink and I found the issue. I put about 6 gallons of fresh diesel in and drove around. Still skipping but not as bad. I figure air in the system, whatever I'll drive it to work. Nope, dead on the side of the road again. WTF! At this point I got smart and kept all the tools needed in the truck. I stuck my fuel pressure gauge on, nada. No fuel pressure.

After FINALLY going through all of this the ONLY other issue could be the HCFM right? Yes and no. After performing the hutch mod I still had some junk in my hard lines. I bypassed them and stuck a 5/16 line from my HCFM to a 5 gallon diesel can in my cab. It drove around just fine, but still had the same issue running out of fuel pressure. I replaced the HCFM pump and all was well. So it was a combined issue of junk in the fuel intake and the pump having 240k on it.

Where I stand now? Well I have fuel pressure, no leaks and did cosmetic mods on the truck. I'm still skipping but I think I found the smoking gun causing all my headaches killing my injectors. My next steps are the following

-Install a new unison ring(mine is slightly wallowed)
-Install the new Y pipe
-Install new injectors, yet again.
-Install new charge pipe couplers

I have countless hours in this truck and want it right. At this point I think as soon as I fix the above parts I should be OK. Again, this post was made for someone like me who knew nothing about these trucks not even two months ago. The information is very scattered and if you have any of these symptoms to check all of this. If anyone else has any other suggestions please let me know. I would really like to pull a fifth wheel for the 4th of july but at this point I'm not even confident in the truck once all issues are resolved.

If you skimmed through this here's what I learned that will cause No to low power on the 6.0:

Verify Compression
In my case I never verified compression numbers since I don't have anything that can read that high. I did the known trick to listen for a consistent crank by using the starter signal wire from the passenger side fender. No point in troubleshooting anything unless you have a good crank.

Verify FICM voltage
-I hear anything over 45V is good, make sure this reads during injector pre-clatter and running. My stock truck shows 48.5-49v consistently.

Verify Oil pressure
-Good oil filled up to spec - Low oil will cause low pressure to injectors
-Motocraft oil filter with OEM plastic fuel filter cap
-Check ICP/IPR specs. Inspect IPR screen, or standpipes if crank no start.
-Attach an air fitting on the ICP sensor hole to check for internal oil pressure leaks

Verify Fuel pressure
-Replace both fuel filters with Motocraft
-Check to see if you have a worn FPR spring and install the blue one
-Attach fuel pressure gauge -Needs to be 40+ psi at idle and under continuous load (I used the oil pressure gauge from Harbor freight)
-Maybe replace HCFM pump and gasket for good measure (mine was bad)

Check turbo condition
-Feel for side to side and up and down shaft play, make sure the compressor spins.
-Pull off the hot side of the turbo and check the unison ring to see if it's seized and/or wallowed out at the VGT vanes and actuator
-At this point verify the Y pipe or exhaust bits weren't leaking (I have a cracked y pipe)

Check for boost/vaccum leaks
-The charge pipes are old, and the stock boots might have tears. They might not be visible by eye and only appear under boost.

Check for clogged/restricted exhaust
-The cat can dislodge and cause restriction
 

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Welcome. You deleted your post earlier?

Have a read through these first, go from there. A member here wrote these. Very knowledgeable.




If you’re lucky, maybe he can help you sort this out.

Edit. It’s not a POS Truck. A lot of guys here might take offence to that. You bought a project. You're learning. Good luck. I hope you get it running right, you’ll love it when you do.
 

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Once you get it fixed, you’ll never want to get rid of it. Especially after all the work you put in it.

What are you thinking for a fifth wheel? I’ve got a 12k when loaded, two axle fifth wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Once you get it fixed, you’ll never want to get rid of it. Especially after all the work you put in it.

What are you thinking for a fifth wheel? I’ve got a 12k when loaded, two axle fifth wheel.
I don’t own a fifth wheel and only plan to rent one from rvshare for the foreseeable future. Looks like I’m stuck at a max of a 12-13k loaded and can afford a pin weight of 2200(just trailer) before I’m over.
 

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That’s about the same weights I came up with. Renting is a good idea to see what you like. So much learned each time I go out.
 

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I’m not that smart on hitches, but there’s different types. Mine is an ultra glide and if I hook mine up to a normal fifth wheel, I need an adapter. My trailer has the adapter installed.

I hate showing up at the rental agency and get sold the extra hook up I need for the rental they happen to sell for a premium, such as a seven pin to five pin light adapter.
 

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You can replace the pump by itself. Don;t always need an entire HFCM replacement.

Low fuel pressure is VERY likely to completely ruin a set of injectors. The minimum value is closer to 45 psi and IMO I would take action if it EVER dropped below 50 psig.

Over-torquing the injector hold-downs is thought to contribute to heads cracking. Keep a close eye on your coolant in the degas bottle!

The FICM has a logic board as well as a power board. 48 volts on the FICM MPower value does not mean that the FICM is necessarily good.
 

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Hey another Nevada 6.0! In my second year with my '05 6.0... def a learning curve. I did skim... mostly because i'm knee deep into my own "research" for a problem that started last weekend. I will say after my initial 2 months of replacing everything with BPD parts its been only oil/filters changes up until now, but i guess its 15 years old and i'm going to have to have some hiccups here and there. My first truck... first ford... first diesel...

EDIT... Actually i do have something beneficial to add. I made/borrowed info into an excel with all the information i was trying to learn as i went. Also added my maintenance schedule. Like everything else on the webs, verify info but i'm 97%-ish sure its accurate.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Welcome. You deleted your post earlier?
Edit. It’s not a POS Truck. A lot of guys here might take offence to that. You bought a project. You're learning. Good luck. I hope you get it running right, you’ll love it when you do.
I didn’t delete a post but I did edit this numerous times. Thank you for the info.

Hey another Nevada 6.0! In my second year with my '05 6.0... def a learning curve. I did skim... mostly because i'm knee deep into my own "research" for a problem that started last weekend. I will say after my initial 2 months of replacing everything with BPD parts its been only oil/filters changes up until now, but i guess its 15 years old and i'm going to have to have some hiccups here and there. My first truck... first ford... first diesel...

EDIT... Actually i do have something beneficial to add. I made/borrowed info into an excel with all the information i was trying to learn as i went. Also added my maintenance schedule. Like everything else on the webs, verify info but i'm 97%-ish sure its accurate.

Where in NV are you? I’m in the Vegas area. And it looks like you got quite the list to complete.

I’m completely torn if I want to spend the $699 at injectors direct for a set of 8 refurbished injectors or just replace the two failed ones from a couple remans from XDP ($165 each locally). my problem is I’m extremely impatient, but I also don’t want to spend $165 + tax per injector to worry about other ones failing too. I can get those replaced as early as tomorrow night. Sigh.
 

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From my experience XDP is a good company. I am not that impressed with Injectors Direct, but that is just based on things I have read in forums about them over the years. I trust XDP more than them. Even though the injector issues that you may (or may not) have are probably related to your low fuel pressure, XDP is good about standing behind their products.

Just as an FYI - I have found harbor Freight pressure gauges to be VERY unreliable.
 

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I’m completely torn if I want to spend the $699 at injectors direct for a set of 8 refurbished injectors or just replace the two failed ones from a couple remans from XDP ($165 each locally). my problem is I’m extremely impatient, but I also don’t want to spend $165 + tax per injector to worry about other ones failing too. I can get those replaced as early as tomorrow night. Sigh.
My experience with Injectors Direct was only 50% positive. I say that because they took their injectors back without complaint and refunded my money quickly. Maybe I had a one-off experience. After that, I bought reman injectors from my local Ford dealer. I asked them to price match the big online Ford parts sellers because I didn't want to hassle with the huge core charge and shipping concerns. They came pretty close and waived the core charge if I brought them back within a few days, which I did. Put them in last fall and they've been flawless.
 
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When the time comes for an injector for me, I will replace all 8 With OEM remans. Nearing 200k, I may do it myself within the next couple of months while I have the money for it. If one goes bad, the other 7 are suffering from stiction And I’m sure there’s more wrong or close to wrong with those than just gummed up spool valves.
 

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When the time comes for an injector for me, I will replace all 8 With OEM remans. Nearing 200k, I may do it myself within the next couple of months while I have the money for it. If one goes bad, the other 7 are suffering from stiction And I’m sure there’s more wrong or close to wrong with those than just gummed up spool valves.
That was my experience. Only #6 threw a code, and it 'failed' rather suddenly on the way home from the lake. I parked the truck until I could gather the parts, and made the decision to replace all 8. I also did standpipes, dummy plugs, and Fel Pro valve cover gaskets while I was in there. After the job, I have no doubt the other 7 injectors were less than great as my truck has never run/sounded better. Cold starts are a non-issue now. The cost was a bit painful at the time but absolutely worth it. Also, I have some level of confidence that I won't have to go back in for a while...I didn't particularly enjoy the job. :)
 
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I didn’t delete a post but I did edit this numerous times. Thank you for the info.



Where in NV are you? I’m in the Vegas area. And it looks like you got quite the list to complete.

I’m completely torn if I want to spend the $699 at injectors direct for a set of 8 refurbished injectors or just replace the two failed ones from a couple remans from XDP ($165 each locally). my problem is I’m extremely impatient, but I also don’t want to spend $165 + tax per injector to worry about other ones failing too. I can get those replaced as early as tomorrow night. Sigh.
I'm South part of Vegas, by the M. I'm dreading the injector job after ripping it all apart for the cooler and oil pump fitting etc and not touching the injectors... I think at 240k... the injectors are almost about due. It would be a pain in the @ss to be out camping and have another go out. That and have to go through the whole process again when you were already there. I vote for all 8 to be done with it. I can relate to the trying to fix it ASAP, mine is not a daily driver but i spent all night yesterday trying to figure out my issue that started this last weekend, just because i know the issue is there.

Did you get the bluetooth reader for monitoring? The model is in the excel, and you can install the app for 5 bucks on your phone. You can monitor the trucks vitals. Give you a heads up something is happening before it gets pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm South part of Vegas, by the M. I'm dreading the injector job after ripping it all apart for the cooler and oil pump fitting etc and not touching the injectors... I think at 240k... the injectors are almost about due. It would be a pain in the @ss to be out camping and have another go out. That and have to go through the whole process again when you were already there. I vote for all 8 to be done with it. I can relate to the trying to fix it ASAP, mine is not a daily driver but i spent all night yesterday trying to figure out my issue that started this last weekend, just because i know the issue is there.

Did you get the bluetooth reader for monitoring? The model is in the excel, and you can install the app for 5 bucks on your phone. You can monitor the trucks vitals. Give you a heads up something is happening before it gets pricey.
So, the side I replaced already with pure power injectors seem to be ok. I lost two on the opposite side. I actually went to J&S Diesel and picked up two more Purepower injectors to replace the dead ones. I guess I'm going to expect others to fail but really didn't want to spend the money.

Edit: yea I'm using torque pro with a bluetooth adapter

I'm pretty darn close to you.
 

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There is a debate on if the stuff helps, but i add 2 bottles of Rev X oil treatment for my injectors... it def quiet them down after about 3 months. I cant say its making them last longer, but they are definitely not as loud.
 

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There is a debate on if the stuff helps, but i add 2 bottles of Rev X oil treatment for my injectors... it def quiet them down after about 3 months. I cant say its making them last longer, but they are definitely not as loud.
I was last at autozone over on stephanie and saw they carried the hotshots antistiction. Since I'm desperate I bought a jug for 60 bucks. I haven't been able to tell if it's done anything yet though. With the heat here I don't foresee us having stiction issues though.
 

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I tried both Archoil and Hot Shot's over the course of a few years. Hot Shot's didn't really seem to do much. I had the impression that Archoil improved smoothness and 'maybe kindof a little bit' helped with cold starts. After replacing the injectors I realized whatever impact it actually had was insignificant compared to new injectors. I still plan on using it occasionally for good measure, but not every oil change.
 

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I only did RevX because of a set of videos i've been watching. DieselTechRon on youtube is a very good resource, he "tested" it on a truck and seemed to help. I think i'm just about to turn the corner on my issue.. shameless plug in 3... 2.. Electrical trouble shooting verification..... For someone that hates doing electrical i just might be becoming adequate, i just look at a plastic clip on a connector and it splits in half!
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I installed the two reman injectors tonight and amazed how well the truck runs! It can actually move it’s own weight now. The engine idles and revs much cleaner.
Hopefully I’m close to being done with this. I still have massive turbo lag.
Next steps:

-Install new unison ring (eta Friday)
-Install new Y pipe to replace the cracked one
-Replace CAC hoses
-Boost leak test
 
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