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Hey folks im back.
...

So, is anyone has done this more recently and has a price tag I would appreciate it.

Also, is there a sticky thread for a parts list?
I sold my 2017 for 50k and looked at the 2020 and thought I could rebuild the 2006 for half the cost. ha!
It was a bad idea IMHO. If you have a good base truck it might make sense to stud the heads but it's a
slippery slope. These are old trucks and you find things as you go. Here's what I've got into the project
so far. It's not a part / cost list but to give you an idea of what it could cost.

Basic Truck F250 Lariat CC SRW 4x4 SB... 8k
New Seat Covers 2k (on backorder)
Radio w/GPS and Speakers 2k
New Windshield, Rear Power Slider, Sunroof repair kit 1k
Upgraded Brakes/Suspension/Steering (stock) 8k
New Michellin Tires, used 20" rims 2k
Misc New and Junk Yard (door panels, seat track, elec switches, sunroof motor, etc) 1k
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Subtotal 24k (vs a used one in very good condition for 18k)

Rebuilt Long Block (studs, o-ring head, fly cut pistons) 15k, not including labor
Aluminum Radiator/Intercooler/synth hoses 4k
Turbo/Injectors/Pipes/Hoses 5k
Fuel System / Reg Return 2.5k
New Battery/Alternator Cables/Misc 500 (on order, waiting to arrive)
Upgraded EGR/OIl Relocate/Coolant Filter 3k-5k (haven't decided yet between IPR and BPD)
Rebuilt trans, driveshaft, rear end 6k
Water pump (billet), steering pump, vacum 500
Gauge cluster refurb 200
Alignment, radius arms w/labor 1k+
Cab off motor install 3k
Aluminized Exhanst 500
Billet Flywheel 500
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Subtotal 40k
Net Total 65k

My original goal was to not spend more than 40k-45k but as I was putting so much into it I didn't want to go back and have to redo anything. This will be a local daily driver. I want to keep the EGR legal so will do the BPD EGR upgrade and add a catch can rather than delete.

It's been a project truck for the last year. Lots of new parts but also many trips to the junk yard to replace misc worn out parts. Last weekend I replaced the blown out rear dome bulbs and discovered it must have a short cuz the batteries drained overnight. Found a bad positive cable while charging. Haven't identified the battery drain for sure but very likely the rear dome light. Today I grabbed a rear view mirror and rear dome light at a junk yard for 30 but spent 40 in tolls and another 20 in gas back and forth. This sort of things add up and isn't capture into the total cost. Everything but the radius arm bushings, coil isolators and sway bar links has been replaced and the truck still wanders. I am waiting on OEM-fit covers from the seat shop and then the truck will go to spring/frame shop for radius arm bushings, isolators and alignment.

When the truck first arrived it leaked fuel and oil all over the driveway so I had it towed to a shop. In the meantime, while it was there, to get a jump on things, I bought a used 6.0 motor in Dallas and drove it back to the machine shop in the back of the tacoma (lol). The mechanic replaced the oil cooler and seals so it wasn't dumping fuel all over the driveway - those are indirect costs not included above. Turns out the existng motor was good - just everything bolted to it was worn out. It looks like the previous owner replaced the motor but didn't install a new oil cooler or gaskets. I wish I had known before I started rebuilding a motor but too late now. I haven't decided whether to put the rebuilt motor in or just keep the ones that is there now. After so much work, the rebuilt will probably go in and I expect to get maybe 3k for it which will cover the cab off motor swap labor (no way to do it myself w/o invoking the rath of the HOA).
 

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Hey folks im back.
this is a question im pondering because, ive seen about a thousand different examples of a “bulletproofed” truck. In my case the EGR will need to stay put, unless its an easy to remove cab on thing for cleaning. Will a tune bypass the EGR?

ive also seen Gorilla proofing, which adds in individual cylinder management, whats the added cost there?

So, is anyone has done this more recently and has a price tag I would appreciate it. Both to be professionally done, and DIY (I work in a shop, its more motivation than anything for me); rough time estimate for time too please.

Also, is there a sticky thread for a parts list?
Just had my 07 6.0 bulletproofed. EGR cooler, air cooled oil cooler, new oil filtration, bulletproof alum water pump impeller, replace all injectors...$9k
 

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Can you not back flush the oil cooler periodically to ensure it doesn't clog up and create the other problems? I have 100k on my '04 6.0 and was told it was "bulletproofed" when I bought it. It runs well and gets great fuel mileage. I want it to last for an extended period. How do I accomplish that?
 

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Bill Hewitt, I believe.

If that's the right person I think he refers to it as "Dealer Proofing" now. (?)
Gotta say, I've gotten a lot of good info from that guy, like his video on how to backflush a 6.0 oil cooler.
However, the only reason I needed to backflush was because I followed his advice and used the Motorcraft gold coolant (actually the equivalent Zerex g05) when I put my rig together. <2 months later I had deltas in the 25-30 range, and sand in the bucket when I drained it out. Thanks for costing me $80 in coolant!
So, he's got a lot of good how-to videos, I'd just take what he says with a grain of salt.
Those guys are quite talented though. I think I saw where they did a cab-off head gasket job in about 10 hours...
 

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Gotta say, I've gotten a lot of good info from that guy, like his video on how to backflush a 6.0 oil cooler.
However, the only reason I needed to backflush was because I followed his advice and used the Motorcraft gold coolant (actually the equivalent Zerex g05) when I put my rig together. <2 months later I had deltas in the 25-30 range, and sand in the bucket when I drained it out. Thanks for costing me $80 in coolant!
So, he's got a lot of good how-to videos, I'd just take what he says with a grain of salt.
Those guys are quite talented though. I think I saw where they did a cab-off head gasket job in about 10 hours...
That isn't his only mistake in giving his advice. Anyway, as you found out, the message is "do NOT use ford Gold coolant". Switch to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant.
 

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To be fair, he's been creating these videos for a long time and YouTube doesn't provide a great way for you to update.

I'm pretty sure that if you look at his more recent videos, you'll see that he uses ELC now.

Here's proof from 3 yrs ago..


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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What does Bulletproofing really cost?

Based on people coming back after buying a Bulletproofed truck, it depends on how many times it gets done.

The problem as I see it is people depend on certain products, but to me, the reality is the quality of the workmanship as much if not more than the products.
 
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Hey folks im back.
this is a question im pondering because, ive seen about a thousand different examples of a “bulletproofed” truck. In my case the EGR will need to stay put, unless its an easy to remove cab on thing for cleaning. Will a tune bypass the EGR?

ive also seen Gorilla proofing, which adds in individual cylinder management, whats the added cost there?

So, is anyone has done this more recently and has a price tag I would appreciate it. Both to be professionally done, and DIY (I work in a shop, its more motivation than anything for me); rough time estimate for time too please.

Also, is there a sticky thread for a parts list?
Everyone has their story to tell, especially about 6.0L diesels. This is mine- I have about 134k miles and was looking at a truck that could barely get out of its own way. My wife and I use the truck to haul and two, not a flashy Sunday driver. I have do e a lot of research regarding the unreliability of this engine and decided to check into Bullet proofing. I live in So. Cal and BulletProof is in Arizona. Their website shows preferred installers and one of them is about 7 miles from my home. I had already installed the EGR cooler and a Garrett Turbo when it left my wife and friend stranded about 210 miles from home with horses in tow. I brought my truck to Domestic Diesel and Auto Service. They came back with 3 bad injectors and fuel in the coolant. The injectors were kind of expected, the fuel in the coolant pointed to major engine issues. I settled on buying a Ford remanufactured engines (5C3Z6006DARM) If you want to look it up. All I had left to add to the motor was my BP EGR cooler, a different fan clutch and the external oil cooler (I did not do the oil cooler as it may have voided the 2 year unlimited mileage warrant from Ford). I use an Edge monitor (Large analog display for my wife with engine coolant/oil temp, battery voltage and trans oil temp, more detailed display for when I am driving) and can easily see how this motor can self destruct if left up to the dash guages. I had also replaced the FICM power supply shortly after getting the monitor because my injector voltage was around 32v, at its best. If you want a price and better idea of what is involved in Bullet proofing, I strongly suggest going to the source and research it. Bullet-Proof Your Ford 6.0L. I also recommend looking up dieseltechron on YouTube and watch his videos. My truck runs great now, I do not use my tuner on it and I do not let coolant temp rise over 225 degrees. I hope this helps. My engine was pulled and they did not pull the cab from the truck and it cost me 15 grand.
 

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Everyone has their story to tell, especially about 6.0L diesels. This is mine- I have about 134k miles and was looking at a truck that could barely get out of its own way. My wife and I use the truck to haul and two, not a flashy Sunday driver. I have do e a lot of research regarding the unreliability of this engine and decided to check into Bullet proofing. I live in So. Cal and BulletProof is in Arizona. Their website shows preferred installers and one of them is about 7 miles from my home. I had already installed the EGR cooler and a Garrett Turbo when it left my wife and friend stranded about 210 miles from home with horses in tow. I brought my truck to Domestic Diesel and Auto Service. They came back with 3 bad injectors and fuel in the coolant. The injectors were kind of expected, the fuel in the coolant pointed to major engine issues. I settled on buying a Ford remanufactured engines (5C3Z6006DARM) If you want to look it up. All I had left to add to the motor was my BP EGR cooler, a different fan clutch and the external oil cooler (I did not do the oil cooler as it may have voided the 2 year unlimited mileage warrant from Ford). I use an Edge monitor (Large analog display for my wife with engine coolant/oil temp, battery voltage and trans oil temp, more detailed display for when I am driving) and can easily see how this motor can self destruct if left up to the dash guages. I had also replaced the FICM power supply shortly after getting the monitor because my injector voltage was around 32v, at its best. If you want a price and better idea of what is involved in Bullet proofing, I strongly suggest going to the source and research it. Bullet-Proof Your Ford 6.0L. I also recommend looking up dieseltechron on YouTube and watch his videos. My truck runs great now, I do not use my tuner on it and I do not let coolant temp rise over 225 degrees. I hope this helps. My engine was pulled and they did not pull the cab from the truck and it cost me 15 grand.
One other problem that I do not believe is addressed with the folks at Bullet Proof is the problem with the cold air compressor tubes blowing off when you are under load and kicking 20 psi of turbo boost. I replaced mine with a HPS upgrade. No more blown intake tube!
 

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To be fair, he's been creating these videos for a long time and YouTube doesn't provide a great way for you to update.

I'm pretty sure that if you look at his more recent videos, you'll see that he uses ELC now.

Here's proof from 3 yrs ago..


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
In this video, they fall short of saying that the Ford Gold coolant is the #1 cause of plugged oil coolers. It is really that bad and it just isn't emphasized. Bill was emailed as early as 2008 about the Gold coolant issues and he never mentioned it in his videos. He caused a lot of people to plug their oil coolers. In fact, he said the Gold coolant was polypropylene, lol. This caused issues also. Lastly, he also had a video where he stated to use the wrong transmission fluid (he said our trucks use Mercon V - sad! I mean come on - the information is in the manuals!). Again - quite a few people took his advice and had problems.

Regarding this video, I don't believe that the 6.OL manuals ever stated that SCA's had to be added as this video states. I believe the manuals state that it is not to be used. I guess I will have to go back and 100% verify this. Edit - just verified it. Absolutely no recommendation to use SCAs.

I agree, that some videos (maybe even most) are very good. For me, I saw so many posts from folks that were negatively impacted, and not just for a few months of even a few years. It was for a LOT of years.

My opinion was set over these issues. You kinda had to be there and be involved in them to get a true feel for it.

YMMV.
 

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One other problem that I do not believe is addressed with the folks at Bullet Proof is the problem with the cold air compressor tubes blowing off when you are under load and kicking 20 psi of turbo boost. I replaced mine with a HPS upgrade. No more blown intake tube!
Well that’s getting ordered.


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Those are nice, but If you set your CAC tubes up correctly from the get go (oil free boots and surfaces, brake kleen and hair spray) and tighten them correctly you won't ever have that issue.

I am not a big fan of the brace and it is not needed, if you have high quality boots that offer more rigidity than the OEM junk. That brace will ruin your boot from the engine torque pulling on the lower right CAC boot IMO.

I have been running Riff Raff boots for 8 yrs without one issue.
 

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I settled on buying a Ford remanufactured engines (5C3Z6006DARM) If you want to look it up. All I had left to add to the motor was my BP EGR cooler, a different fan clutch and the external oil cooler (I did not do the oil cooler as it may have voided the 2 year unlimited mileage warrant from Ford).
Are you saying that your Ford reman engine came with head studs instead of TTY bolts or that you elected not to install them?
 

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Research that I did indicated that the most vulnerable boot is the one attached to the turbo due to the heat passed. That is the only boot I have had issues with. I have tried two replacements, with clamps. One was installed by Ford technician and the other installed by me with a pair stored under the driver seat. This brace helps keep the "push off" stress from that boot. The bottom boot you mentioned has a lot of flex space. I am happy to pull my loaded truck up Devote without having to worry about turbo pressure, keeps me out of the slow truck lane too. Thanks for your feedback.
 

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Are you saying that your Ford reman engine came with head studs instead of TTY bolts or that you elected not to install them?
Yes, it came with all the upgrades, including head studs. Ford has two different remans, one with and one without head studs. On that Ford part number I gave, DARM is studied and BARM has head bolts.
 

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Hopefully FORD got their $h*t together on this one, I read some horror stories from this guy 👆
 
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Jack is a resource we frequently need but don't often deserve: His Experience.
 

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I know people said they had boots and pipes blow off on these things but I never had anything blow off besides the tanks on the intercooler after I put my KC stage 2 on there. I never had boot problems and was towing very heavy often enough I think I would have had issues. I would say Joe Blow is right before I would go buy a different pipe set unless I just wanted some engine bling.
 

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My reman was built when CAT owned the company in 2010.

The lineage was an International owned engine rebuilding division called "ReNEW". It was sold to a private investment group headed by Mike Jarvis in 1983, which renamed the company Franklin Power Products, located in Frankin, IN. He sold the company to Delco-Remy in 1996. Delco-Remy sold the division to CAT Reman in 1/2007. The operation was selling reman engines to Ford, General Motors, Navistar, and Mercruiser.

Frankin Power Products also bought Findlay Diesel in 1987, and in 1996 it became the exclusive supplier to Ford for reman diesel engines, blocks, diesel pumps, including HPOP with the Delco-Remy takeover. They also supplied reman fuel and HPOP pumps to International, Caterpillar, Detroit Diesel, and Cummins.
 
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