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Also, are you saying just take one of those plugs out instead of removing high pressure oil line? I'm doing all this myself with a bulging disks, so movement is limited and can't get on the ground so looking for easiest way to see if the oil is getting to where it has to. Thanks
Yes pull one plug not a line. Crank it with your starter button
 
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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Yes pull one plug not a line. Crank it with your starter button
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I think this is one of the ones you're talking about. How much oil should I expect to come out? I was planning to put the end of the high pressure oil hose in a coffee can so I could just pour the oil back into the system.
 

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I was thinking more of one towards the valley of the engine, right below where your wiring harness connects to the valve cover gasket. You could get a o-ring fitting that fits and connect a hose to it if you want to catch the oil. It should do a decent flow.
 
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No, those are not the plugs. Look where the HPOP lines attach to each head. Each head will have similar ports for the other cylinders (the ICP is in one of the driver's side ports as well). The ones you show are the oil rail end plugs. Cheers!
 

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Yeah definitely not the end plugs on the galley -- ICP sensor is one that can be got to pretty easy -- there are others in a line down each head -- makes no difference which you remove, they are all connected to a common port on the pump -- 5/8" wrench (socket) if I remember right

you are measuring 2.8 - 3.6 on all the wires, so the 200 ohm would work fine -- you can use the 2K as well but depending on your meter the reading may not be "fine enough" -- try both and see which works best for you -- the only difference in in the max scale 200 vs 2000
 

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Not disagreeing with White, post the model #

Any meter should be fine, even the cheapest you can find - even a test light as a Yes / No indicator

I have a few cheap meters for banging around -- and a couple of "good" meters for higher end testing
really the difference is in the speed that a reading is acquired -- the cheap meters are slow and the scope meter is quick
the other diff is if I drop one of the cheap meters, "hey look it still works" -- if I drop the scope, I would have to sit down for a while and contemplate
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
No, those are not the plugs. Look where the HPOP lines attach to each head. Each head will have similar ports for the other cylinders (the ICP is in one of the driver's side ports as well). The ones you show are the oil rail end plugs. Cheers!
So, if I'm just looking to see if I have a good flow of oil coming from the HPOP to the rail I can take the ICP out and call it good?
 

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Yes - ICP is fine, whatever is easiest
No - both share a common source port at the pump
 
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Sorry for all the questions. Can I screw some kind of gauge into the port the ICP comes out of so I can see how much pressure is getting into the rail? Thanks
Yes you can but, it needs to be a 3000 psi gauge and the adapter to replace the icp or plug needs to be the same treads and o-ring fitting to adapt to the gauge
 

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Those are ORB fitting threads -- #05 or 06 I think
 
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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
My IDM checked out good. On test #1 I got 3.0 across the board except on two. Those were 3.2. I got "OL" on both tests # 2 & # 3. I think I found the ports also. Do they have a 5/8" six-sided bolt? If so it would be easy to get at the back one on the passenger side. I was thinking take it out and go down to my local hydraulic shop and have something made up with a 3000psi gauge on it. That will be my next step. Then I should know if my HPOP is putting out pressure. Thanks for everyone's help so far.
 

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Do they have a 5/8" six-sided bolt? If so it would be easy to get at the back one on the passenger side. I was thinking take it out and go down to my local hydraulic shop and have something made up with a 3000psi gauge on it.
Yes, that would be correct, it looks like a bolt head. When you remove it, there will be a o-ring on it
 
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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Update: checked the GPR by these instructions and determined it was good. (To test your relay, connect your test light across the two little terminals and activate the glow plugs by turning on the ignition. If your test light comes on, the signal to the relay is good. Now connect your test light's clip to engine ground. With the ignition off again, touch each of the big terminals on the relay. One will cause the test light to light - this terminal is connected to battery positive. Now, cycle the glow plugs on again. The opposite big terminal should now be getting power. If not, the relay is bad. Also, measure the difference in voltage between the in and out terminals with your multimeter. There should be less than .3 difference on a good GPR.) I have .2. I will check the pressure when the pressure test kit comes. It seems like everything that needs to happen in order for the engine to run is happening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
I've got another update: I got my PCM and IDM back today from where I sent them off to be checked, (Diesel Technology at Chattanooga), and both passed all tests. He did say the IDM was a little on the weak side, but it still ran all 8 strong and not throwing any codes. I sent the Hydra chip with the PCM and the PCM checked out okay with and without the chip installed. I got both installed back into the truck where they belong and a bunch of cuts and scrapes all over my arms. That's a side benefit, right? I had them reflash my PCM for OBD2 while they had it. It was just $30.00 more to have it done. That might have been the problem of why I was getting the crazy readings before. So, anyway, after getting things all buttoned up and batteries fully charged, I connected the 4K PSI gauge into the second from the back port on the passenger side. I got absolutely nothing. Needle didn't even budge. I did it 3 times and checked to make sure there were no leaks anywhere. Checked the res for oil and it was to the top and checked oil level in pan and it's full. I'm not sure what no pressure in the HPOP means but I bet it's not good. I guess I'm going to have to tear that HPOP out and see if I can see anything that could be causing problems. I have no idea of what to look for but there are many youtub's that can walk me through the process. I'll probably start on that tomorrow.
 

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Lots of things to go wrong in that pump -- when you get to searching vids, there are a few that show carnage when the swash plate decides to rotate in the housing -- the other failure is usually a scored valve plate

The pump design is a very "inexpensive" build -- tried to say that nice for , cheap

We are a**/u/ming that the IPR is actually closing off and building pressure -- and that there are no injector oring leaks
 
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