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Using a starter button connect one lead to battery positive, pull the small post slip on connection of the fender solenoid and connect the other lead to that small post.
 
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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I have a few questions about the fuel flow. I understand some of it but need help with what I don't know. The fuel comes from the tank to the bowl (or in my case the adaptor the banjo bolt screws into on my E fuel kit upgrade) and then to the mechanical pump (that my E fuel kit replaced with an electric one)? From there it travels through the banjo bolt to the back of both heads. At some point it comes out the front of each head to the fuel regulator and from there to the return line? The oil gets pressurized by the HPOP and the pressurized oil causes the injectors to "fire" or shot fuel into the cylinders? If I get a buzz test that passes it means the injectors are getting electric to them but doesn't mean they are getting fuel to them?? Where does the PCM and IDM come into this? As you can tell I'm not too knowledgeable of the whole system. I'm at a complete blank as to why fuel goes through the back and out the front of each head. Also, am I correct in assuming If I disconnect each hose that comes from the front of the heads into the regulator, I should see fuel coming out of them with key on electric pump on, right? Any information would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to understand and solve my no start problem after having someone else install upgrades of injectors and HPOP. Thanks.
 

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See the attached for a good primer on HEUI operation. On the fuel system, don't forget about the filter(s)! Simplified, for the mechanical system, fuel goes from the tank/selector valve to the low pressure stage of the pump. It then gets pumped to the filter bowl, filtered, then back to the high pressure stage of the pump. It then goes to the back of each head to the fuel rails/injectors. Excess fuel is returned to the fuel pressure regulator via the front of each head, pressure regulated, and then some back into the system and some back to the tank. Fuel diagram attached as well. I would think you should see fuel flow from the return lines at the regulator when the pump is powered. Cheers!
Slope Font Schematic Engineering Parallel
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Thanks, Patrick, for that great simple explanation and attachment. Everything makes perfect sense and easy to follow. Where would the piston stage take place in an E-fuel system? This shows the mechanical pump making it. Thanks
 

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No piston event in a e-fuel system since your electric pump is doing all the work. Do you not have a fuel pressure gauge in your system?
In the above diagram yellow line is supply from tanks to your electric pump (diaphram and piston stage) should have a primary filter before pump and a secondary filter after pump, going to red lines at back of heads, returns out the front of heads with regulator and gauge to green line return to tanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Thanks for clearing up the piston stage. I was thinking I was missing something on my E fuel kit. Yes, my system does have a gauge that is attached to the fuel regulator. It shows 65psi while cranking. I have two filters mounted to the frame. One is right after the tank, then goes to the pump and the pump goes to another filter then up to the separator switch and from there to the adapter that the banjo bolt connects to. I could be wrong about when the separator switch is introduced into this kit. It's been a while since it's been installed but I did follow the instructions that came with it. Before the upgraded injectors it all was working great.
 

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If you have 65 psi of fuel pressure, then that is not the issue. Is the hpop full of oil. Iirc you said buzz test worked so the only thing left is high pressure oil to the injectors
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
If you have 65 psi of fuel pressure, then that is not the issue. Is the hpop full of oil. Iirc you said buzz test worked so the only thing left is high pressure oil to the injectors
I just left a message with Corey. He's the one I got the stage 2 from. I asked if there is a different procedure to follow when installing the stage 2 then the procedure to install a stock one. I did connect the start switch I got and tried to start the truck from outside and being able to see the exhaust pipe. I verified there isn't any smoke coming out of it. I have an extra GPR in the garage so I'm going to install it and see if it will make a difference. With now smoke coming out I'm almost tempted to say the glow plugs aren't heating up but I've read a few places that said if the outside temp is above 40 it doesn't need glow plugs to start. I don't know how true that is. Yes, HPOP is full.
 

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Absolutely no difference on installation of any size injector. Only in programing to run them. Glow plugs coming on or not you would still get smoke. If it was cold and glow plugs not coming on it should white smoke. Something is not telling the injectors to fire. Are you sure on your buzz test, one main buzz and then 8 individual lighter buzzes
 
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Just for reference, here are a couple of screenshots off my iphone using Forscan Lite on my Cali 97. The first is KOEO with the glowplugs not active and the truck already warm. The second is with engine running at idle. Not sure why the reference voltage is so low, but it runs fine (not that I'm going to go out and find a DPC-312 ... those things are unobtanium!). Cheers!
 

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Just for reference, here are a couple of screenshots off my iphone using Forscan Lite on my Cali 97. The first is KOEO with the glowplugs not active and the truck already warm. The second is with engine running at idle. Not sure why the reference voltage is so low, but it runs fine (not that I'm going to go out and find a DPC-312 ... those things are unobtanium!). Cheers!
MAP and Baro are also reading low , unless you are way up in the mountains -- not sure why on that vRef, but I would want to check with a volt meter (Torque may be programmed wrong) Can check at the MAP or EPB connector
May "run fine" but knowing the numbers are off, I wouldn't be able to rest easy until they were verified
 

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Nevermind 3970 feet is 12.71 psi -- guessing you are in the mountains of Tehachapi
gotta love the information we can get off google now days
 
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Actually at 4100 ft sitting in my driveway. Yeah, at some point I'll put the DVOM on the VREF circuit to see what it says. I hadn't really played with the Forscan Lite much until recently, but it does do the Cylinder Contribution Test (which passed FWIW). I didn't remember how long it actually takes to perform (it seemed like forever). Much easier to use than breaking out the ancient XP laptop with EASE Diagnostic software on it. Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Absolutely no difference on installation of any size injector. Only in programing to run them. Glow plugs coming on or not you would still get smoke. If it was cold and glow plugs not coming on it should white smoke. Something is not telling the injectors to fire. Are you sure on your buzz test, one main buzz and then 8 individual lighter buzzes
Sorry for the confusion, I get the stage 2 HPOP from him and that's what I'm wondering about installing.
 

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Sorry for the confusion, I get the stage 2 HPOP from him and that's what I'm wondering about installing.
No difference on hpop installation either
 

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When the new HPOP was installed, you got the gear installed correctly and the bolt torqued? Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
I just finished visually verifying I'm getting fuel throughout the system. I checked for fuel coming from the pump to the filters, then to the adapter the banjo screws into. Then I disconnected each line going into the regulator, one at a time, and strong flow from both. The gauge shows it is holding pressure longer after shutting the pump off, since doing that. I didn't remove the valve covers but if I have fuel coming into the regulator, I assume, it will mean everything under the covers would be working correctly. I even stuck a wire down inside the HPOP reservoir thinking maybe there was an air bubble inside of it. I stirred it up and the level didn't change. I'm going to move on, now, to the high-pressure oil. Question???can I safely remove, one at a time of course, the high-pressure lines that go into the heads and then crank the motor? I want to see if I have oil coming from the HPOP to each side of the injector banks. Someone mention yesterday that something isn't telling the injectors to fire. If I understand the diagrams provided by Patrick, that would be the job of the IDM, wouldn't it? Thanks
 

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There are "extra" plugs on the heads for the oil galley -- just take one of those out -- both heads share a common pressure source -- the drivers head is easiest to get a plug out of

Did I not post the IDM check chart ?
if not here it is
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
There are "extra" plugs on the heads for the oil galley -- just take one of those out -- both heads share a common pressure source -- the drivers head is easiest to get a plug out of

Did I not post the IDM check chart ?
if not here it is
Thanks Hydro. Can you give me some advice as to what setting to put my meter on? it goes from 2M,200K,20K,2K,200. I was thinking 2K. Also test 2 and 3 the "OL" is the reading I should get, right?
Also, are you saying just take one of those plugs out instead of removing high pressure oil line? I'm doing all this myself with a bulging disks, so movement is limited and can't get on the ground so looking for easiest way to see if the oil is getting to where it has to. Thanks
 
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