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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought a 14k fifth wheel and needed a truck that would pull it. I started researching trucks and the 05-07 Powerstroke crew cab fit my needs.

I read a lot on this forum before purchasing, but apparently not enough.

I bought a truck from a dealer in CO thinking it was a great deal, only to find out that the engine was shot after started towing down the highway.

The dealer won't take the truck back voluntarily (it's in the same condition as when I picked it up, which is that it over heats when under a load). The dealer has offered to sell me a Ford complete reman at their cost minus 1,000 (11K drop shipped to the mechanic's doorstep). It will cost about $2k to put the engine in. I paid 10,500 for the truck. So if I go that route, I'll be into it for at least $23,500 and I'm sure there will be more by the time I'm done.

The truck is in rough condition, probably a farm or heavy contractor vehicle.

So the questions are:
Do I try to get the truck back to the dealer using legal means. (Co has a board of dealers which may help as I understand)

Do I take the engine offer and be glad that I have a new engine for years of drivability (I only put 15k max on a vehicle per year, mostly driving 20 miles to work and back)?

If my first option fails, do I sell the truck with full disclosure and buy a truck in better shape?

Other options (like seeing how far the truck will make it into the dealer sales department when driven through the front door)?

Thanks for your help!

-David
 

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Sorry for your issue, but what truck are we talking about?
How do you know the engine is gone?
Give us more details... you say its in rough shape, whats that mean? :popcorn:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is a 2006 F350 CC 4WD long bed with 213,000 miles

I took it to a PSD master mechanic. He said, clogged oil cooler, head gaskets, ring blow-by, injectors, turbo, etc.

Rough means lots of dings and scratches, rough interior, loose steering (haven't diagnosed it yet), cracked windshield, etc. The back portion of the bed has had something so heavy, it flattened the ribs in the entire back portion of the bed, so you can see the outline of the frame.
 

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no offense at all here but if it has all those issues how were you able to drive it off the lot?! There had to be signs off all these issues especially if you took a scan tool or a OBD reader with you.

10k for a CCLB4wd is to good to be true, it does sound like it had a hard life and not knowing the list of whats wrong I would say if the block isnt cracked or the rotating assembly locked up I'd lift the cab and throw the parts at it to get it back on the road.
 

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Do NOT get a new engine for over 10k.
Get yours fixed CORRECTLY by a tech that knows what he's doing. You can fix all of those issues for a lot less than 10k.

Heck find a used engine on Craigslist or a wrecking yard and build it.

Know this, once the dealer sells you that 10k engine, you won't be much better off than where you are now... ALL engines need to be bullet proofed once your already in there. Might as well start with the one you already have:thumb:


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Sell the truck as is or convert to a completely different engine. Many people get their 6.0 "bulletproofed" multiple times and still have constant issues.
'05-'07 trucks like yours around here are selling for about 5-6 grand while in need of engine work.

All of you guys that have bulletproofed and repaired your 6.0 need to start posting $ amounts and hours spent on engine repairs along with longevity.

The 6.0 in stock form will last a long time with light usage and a light foot. Pulling weight and pushing more power out of it will lift the heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I bought the truck on Saturday the 15th and discovered the issues on Monday the 17th. The truck as been sitting at the mechanics since then as I argue with the dealer.

Some more back story. I bought this truck long distance. I made the mistake of thinking that since I bought it from a "reputable" Ford dealership and asked them to inspect the vehicle to make sure it was mechanically sound for pulling a 15K 5th wheel 3,000 miles, I would be ok. Another mistake, I didn't insist that they document the pre-buy inspection. I didn't have a 3rd party look at it because it' a small town and I figured the Ford dealership would be the most qualified to insure it was road worthy. This pre-buy mechanically sound conversation went on with the dealer 2 weeks before I picked it up. When I showed up and saw how rough it was, I thought, "well, at least it's mechanically sound since they checked it out. I didn't expect much in terms of looks for 10.5K. I only wanted towing capability. It was supposed to be ready for the trip back home pulling the 5th wheel. In fact, they didn't even check the tire pressure as I found out 3 hours down the road with anywhere from 30 - 60 PSI in 80 PSI tires.

I don't want to act like I'm not at fault for the above not covering my bases. I certainly paid a stupid tax last week when my vacation was ruined and I had to fly home. I'm just trying to figure out what's next.

If I understand the replies, you're saying to gear-head it back into condition. If the truck were back home, I would be tempted to do that using my mechanic. Since it's in Albuquerque, I'd rather spend the extra 1,000 and get the Ford complete remanufacture.

Just so you know, I'm a software developer, not a mechanic. I can fix this website easily, but get lost pretty quick when it comes with fumes.

Bulletproofing means? EGR studs and bulletproof oil and egr cooler? Can I do that to the new Ford reman without loosing the warranty?

Thanks for all the replies so far. I really appreciate this. It sounds like so far no-one thinks 25k or so is unreasonable for this truck. I was thinking it would be worth 15K tops after putting in the new Ford reman.
 
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All of you guys that have bulletproofed and repaired your 6.0 need to start posting $ amounts and hours spent on engine repairs along with longevity.
I have no problem talking numbers, numbers for the 6.0, numbers for a fummins swap, or numbers for 7.3 trannies and repairs.

OP stated he did his reading and was educated so stable your high horse so we can focus.
 

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My bad, sounds like you did ''just buy'' it in fact, the selling dealer needs to come clean but I'm guessing they wont......... is there a ''better business bureau'' or a lawyer you can call, sorry for your trouble.

It should have come with a 30 day guaranty at least
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The reading I did before purchase left me with the impression that this truck and the 6.0 were great once you do the ARP studs, EGR delete and bulletproof oil cooler, not much more. I was prepared to do that assuming the truck was mechanically sound to start with. I kind of figured/hoped it would have already been done since it's gone over 200k (it does have an EGR delete). I don't know if I can EGR delete in WA state because of emissions.

I don't know anything about 6.0 alternatives. I thought this was supposed to be a great engine...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm in the process of submitting a complaint to the CO board of dealers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Btw, Ontario, nice rig you got there. That's pretty much the picture I was hoping to post today at the end of our trip. Oh well :(
 

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Dave the 6.0L can be a great engine but it looks like the whole truck was abused, the dealer HAD to know some thing wasn't right, this makes me mad
 

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Thanks for all the replies so far. I really appreciate this. It sounds like so far no-one thinks 25k or so is unreasonable for this truck. I was thinking it would be worth 15K tops after putting in the new Ford reman.
Kudos to you for admitting the stupid tax. (I use that term a lot) :D

The problem with value is it sounds like the truck is already in rough shape so if you are looking at resale then thats a tougher conversation.

before I give any advice, you need to make the value decision... is this your long term truck that will make you money, or will it be a weekend truck, or is this a flip sale.

Side note: Do not feed the 6.0 trolls... I love my 6.0 and it will be my long term truck so I spent the long term money. EVERY manufacture has their problem child motors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm in the process of filing a dispute with the CO board of dealers.

Btw, Ontario, that's a nice rig. A week ago, I'd hoped to be posting a similar picture today instead of creating this thread :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'll be owning this truck as long as I own the 5th wheel. 10 years until the kids fly the coop. It will be my daily driver, about 15K miles / year, weekend 5th wheel towing and once a year summer trip of 3,000 miles or so.

I always think in terms of resale before spending money, but my plan is to hold on to the truck.
 

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Then, here is my advice you need a truck you can rely on and company or shop you can trust to support you when things fail... and NO MATTER how much you spend things will fail. Its just how life is, NOTHING is bulletproofed.

Do your online research to find a performance shop that is trusted. (where you now and where do you live?)
Find a transport company on line to bring the truck to a shop.
Spend 7-10 grand and have the truck completely worked over.

OR...

Take it to a reputable dealer, bite the bullet, and TRADE it in on another used rig.

The reality is that whether you fight it, or fix it, you will be spending money and time...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I live in Bellevue, WA. I have a great mechanic here that I've used since 1998. The 5th wheel and truck are in Albuquerque, and I need to get the 5th wheel home. I plan on flying down and driving it straight home once I make a decision on new truck or fixed truck. I'm using NM Diesel Power and they seem like a great shop. They seem concerned with me NOT ending up upside down. They seem to be in favor of dumping this truck and getting a good truck after a pre-buy inspection. But now that the new Ford complete is offered at 11k at their door, we're much closer to going with that, since all parts are new or newly remanufactured. I think the least effort for me would be to go with the reman, since all I have to do is say, "yes" and throw money at it. Otherwise, I need to search, travel, sell, etc. The mechanic charges 2k to put the engine in, but they are afraid of finding more issues with non - engine related stuff as we continue. What little towing I was able to do, the tranny felt strong and shifted flawlessly. The front end is very loose.
 

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your last sentence summed it up... do not throw a reman in a beat up truck... that is a TERRIBLE investment.

I would get NMDP to get the truck running, cut your losses, and buy a clean truck your family can depend on.

There are great deals on this board and you can post trucks you are interested in and we can help you decide.

Just curious, whats the VIN on that truck? I'd love to see the OASIS.
 
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