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The Maddawg
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Ah, the snap on guy here will bend over backwards to help you.

I tested my 1/2" against a Mil a guy in the shop has and the Mil couldn't keep up at all. The monster l-ion set is bad!
 

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I got my Milwaukee stuff off of the Cornwell tool truck. The 1/2 3/8 impacts and 1/2 hammer drill for 776 on sale. He sold my Snapon stuff for me and I basically got paid 50 bucks to get into Milwaukee. I also have a 3/8 impacting ratchet. I won't give up my Milwaukee stuff. I also quit buying Snapon tools because the guy on our route is $&@hole.
Same place I got some of my Milwaukee cordless tools. I won a snap on lower box a while back (not a high end unit) and traded it to cornwell for the 18v fuel set you have plus paid off my truck account. He sold the box and made some money and I got a cordless tool set that I'm extremely happy with so it was a win, win. I have bought a few more Milwaukee cordless tools from Home Depot when sales show up to round out what I had and am very happy with all of it. Had some Porter Cable 19.5v stuff that was pretty good but batteries are getting hard to find plus never bought the cordless impacts from them. I cringe every time I see the price of the Snap On cordless tools.
 

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Same place I got some of my Milwaukee cordless tools. I won a snap on lower box a while back (not a high end unit) and traded it to cornwell for the 18v fuel set you have plus paid off my truck account. He sold the box and made some money and I got a cordless tool set that I'm extremely happy with so it was a win, win. I have bought a few more Milwaukee cordless tools from Home Depot when sales show up to round out what I had and am very happy with all of it. Had some Porter Cable 19.5v stuff that was pretty good but batteries are getting hard to find plus never bought the cordless impacts from them. I cringe every time I see the price of the Snap On cordless tools.

Yeah the price of any Snapon tool is ridiculous. I have a lot using them all day to keep food on the table and roof overhead I need the quality. Or Cornwell guy is much easier to deal with some of the stuff is good some not so much.
 

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The Maddawg
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What is the stock size injector and code in a 1996 7.3?
 

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The Maddawg
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OK thanks!
 
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"What did you do to your OBS?"

More like: 'What did you do with your OBS?'

Moved a keg cooler from where I had it stored to the recently cleaned out tool shed in preparation for our annual party. The front trailer hitch made maneuvering a breeze.



 

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Finished up replacing almost everything in the front end.

New ball joints, all new inner and outer seals, new bearings(spindle and inner/outer hub), new rotors and pads, calipers, steering linkage with new sleeves. I think that's it.

Ball joints were pretty much as bad as they get.

Now that everything is done, I am getting a popping noise when I turn. It seems like it is right under my feet. It doesn't do it when the front end is off the ground. Only when turning while moving. Steering wheel feels fine but with a good amount of play still. The column moans a bit when turning.

Any thoughts?

thanks.
 

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Former OBSer
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I bet the pop is from track bar now that everything else is tightened up.
moaning in steering could be pump cavitation?
Check fluid level in pump?
 

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I bet the pop is from track bar now that everything else is tightened up.
moaning in steering could be pump cavitation?
Check fluid level in pump?
Yep, i figured it wouldn't take long to find the next weak link once everything got buttoned up.

Track bar bolts loose or the bushings bad?


Fluid is good in pump. I should clarify that the moaning is more in the cab. I think the moaning is maybe bad bearings in the column. I just figured i'd mention it because i wasn't sure if it would cause any popping.
 

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My money is is on track bar bushings.

get some white lithium spray grease and lube up the column.
 

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I have a similar pop but my track bar has poly bushings so it's not the cause. Is it popping when the cab and frame flexes as you turn the wheel or do you feel it in the wheel. My money is on either your track bar, sway bar contacting the driver side spring(unless you changed all bushings on the sway bar, if not it coukd be sliding inside the axel mount bushings), or a body mount point is loose and when the frame/cab flexes under the load of turning the wheel it moves. I say body mount point but don't mean strictly the cab mount. Could be in your fenders or elsewhere.

If it only does it with the suspension loaded on the ground I'm leaning towards a bolt somewhere is loose or the sway bar contact to driver spring because the loaded suspension puts torsional stress when turning on the frame and it moves and tweaks everything, when it's suspended by stands it has no resistance on the tires to try and stay straight because they are in the air.

Mine however seems to sound like it's right at the bottom of my A-pillars. Since the fella I bought it from detailed the truck I'm assuming they messed with the fenders for some reason since they had the passenger side off and didn't run the bolts tight enough. Only assume this because 3 of the 4 bolts on my drive shaft to transmission flange were finger loose and the 4th was backed out about a 1/4".

Also agree it's more than likely your shaft bearings mine dose the exact same thing when I turn the wheel fast when maneuvering trailers and such.
 

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Thanks everybody.

Is your tie rod rolling? Mine sounds like a pop when it does.
More on this please. I'm thinking it does this. My dad and I both said it looked like it was rolling but I have nothing to compare to.

Can it be fixed? Common? Not really an issue?

Thanks.
 

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Finished up replacing almost everything in the front end.

New ball joints, all new inner and outer seals, new bearings(spindle and inner/outer hub), new rotors and pads, calipers, steering linkage with new sleeves. I think that's it.

Ball joints were pretty much as bad as they get.

Now that everything is done, I am getting a popping noise when I turn. It seems like it is right under my feet. It doesn't do it when the front end is off the ground. Only when turning while moving. Steering wheel feels fine but with a good amount of play still. The column moans a bit when turning.

Any thoughts?

thanks.
Axle shaft u-joints?

Rusty
 

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I fixed my dipstick adapter leak, again, but this time dropped the coin on the Strictly Diesel kit. I wish I had gone that route the first time, less than an hour, start to finish, and didn't need to pull my starter.

Looking back, the extra $250 for the Strictly Diesel kit was well worth #1, not having to redo the repair, and #2, it was much simpler to do.

Rusty
 

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Dang Leo if your tie rod Is rolling that hard may be time for some new ones lol.

Eric to check if yours are rolling just get under the front and grab the rod ends and try to twist them essentially trying to move the ball joint. If yoy can twist them or move them easily they are super sloppy and need some new ones. Honestly yoy shouldn't be able to twist a good ball joint but obviously if they have some miles you'll be able to twist but not enough to hit so hard it pops. If it does replace them.
 

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Thanks

Everything is brand new in the steering linkage department. All raybestos pro grade.
After it was mentioned I researched a bit and it seems to be a pretty common ford steering issue. Obviously, the bigger tires make it worse.
 

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One thing I would do is have someone in the seat truck running moving the wheel lock to lock while it's on the ground. I understand this is not the best for alignments but you'll be able to watch the suspension as the truck moves and flexes and you'll either see what's causing the noise, narrow down where it is to find it, or notice any other issues.
 
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