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I drove my 7.3 today and hauled some straw bales with it. It’s got a little stumble/ cutout in engine when the throttle is pushed about right to hold my speed around 60. If I gas on it it runs fine but when I’m just easing on it, not letting off but just kinda maintaining speed it cuts out some. What could he causing this?


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CTS3 reads everything that the pcm does and the ect is not monitored by pcm so you will need to add a sensor for that.
OR just monitor eot (it goes through pcm)


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I had figured that out afterward, if I'd of known that I would have just gotten an ultra gauge or something cheaper. I did find out that since I have a later model zf-6 that the TFT sensor is actually a secondary ECT so I added that to my gauge list. Strange that it shows about 10* when the engine is cold while the EOT shows ambient temp, perhaps the scaling on the ECT sensor is different. I haven't taken it for a drive yet to compare the trend and delta T as it heats up and what the normal operating value will be, but if it's linear with the EOT I can use that value as valid ECT with an offset.
 

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I routed the wire behind the dash and down to the OBD port today and set up a preliminary gauge layout, it does look nice though and it'll be nice to have IPR and ICP data.
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I put my intercooler pipe back on after blowing it out of boot on Tuesday. Used hair spray on it and hoping it holds now.

I have two questions.

My steering wheel is terrible. Is there someplace I can send it and have the old cover taken off and replaced?

My left hub to lock in 4x4 won’t turn. What is the recommended replacement manufacturer? We don’t use 4x4 much but when I need it I sure would like it to work. I may replace the front wheel bearings/ hub assemblies too.


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@nsfr1206
These folks do that very thing. See link below.


I just replaced the front locking hubs on mine and went with Warn like I have with ALL of my past 4WD trucks. Yes, I lost the auto-locking feature from the switch on the inside. However, if you're like me and don't use the 4WD much, then it really shouldn't bother you that much. If you know there is a sketchy place coming up, then simply get out and lock the hubs in. Then, when you need the 4WD, turn the knob on the dash to engage the transfer case and your hubs are already locked in. You can get the Dorman Auto/Manual locking hubs from places like 1AAuto for $225 per side (see link below).You may can find OEM for cheaper or crazy more but I know the Warn quality from experienceas top-shelf.

 
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@nsfr1206
These folks do that very thing. See link below.


I just replaced the front locking hubs on mine and went with Warn like I have with ALL of my past 4WD trucks. Yes, I lost the auto-locking feature from the switch on the inside. However, if you're like me and don't use the 4WD much, then it really shouldn't bother you that much. If you know there is a sketchy place coming up, then simply get out and lock the hubs in. Then, when you need the 4WD, turn the knob on the dash to engage the transfer case and your hubs are already locked in. You can get the Dorman Auto/Manual locking hubs from places like 1AAuto for $225 per side (see link below).You may can find OEM for cheaper or crazy more but I know the Warn quality from experienceas top-shelf.

Thanks!


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Does anyone know where I can find the “by the book” procedure for resealing the front cover? I know it’s a mixture of o rings and rtv silicone. I’m sure I could do a decent job myself, but it would be nice to review the right way to do it so I don’t miss anything


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@7.3_TurboDiesel
Below is a link to the Haynes book. Short of a real Ford shop manual, idk what else may cover what you want. At least this one will have torque specs and such.

 

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Pulled my Rhino home on the trailer, then went back for my travel trailer……on the way got on the freeway and lost OD. Trans has 179000 of towing 7300 lb trailer most of its life. Had to use my Tahoe to get the TT.
Anyone know of a good place in Phoenix to get it rebuilt?
 

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Pulled my Rhino home on the trailer, then went back for my travel trailer……on the way got on the freeway and lost OD. Trans has 179000 of towing 7300 lb trailer most of its life. Had to use my Tahoe to get the TT.
Anyone know of a good place in Phoenix to get it rebuilt?
I had mine rebuilt by Reliable Diesel - reliabledieselaz.com/home.html can't complain, I'm happy with the results.
 

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I installed a Wulf track bar this afternoon between rain storms. My truck is not lifted so I ordered the early 99 adjustable track bar. It was a half a bolt width too long. Tech support suggested take one jamb-nuts off. Bottom out that side and re-install it. It was still too long, ended up cutting 1/2 inch off with a sawzall re-shaping the threads with a file . Presto it works. It took a lot of play out of the steering.
 

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I installed a Wulf track bar this afternoon between rain storms. My truck is not lifted so I ordered the early 99 adjustable track bar. It was a half a bolt width too long. Tech support suggested take one jamb-nuts off. Bottom out that side and re-install it. It was still too long, ended up cutting 1/2 inch off with a sawzall re-shaping the threads with a file . Presto it works. It took a lot of play out of the steering.

I was looking for someone who used one of those as Wulf is a newer brand and I wanted to change my track bar... The PMF one I have is nice and beefy but its got heim joints not bushings and Im feeling its finally giving up. So I wanted a bushing type one again. I may give them a shot as I have a front level kit so hopefully it wont be to short.
 

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Any tricks for getting the engine to mesh correctly with an auto trans when putting it back in the truck? It’s been a while since I did a 7.3 r&r

Do you guys just keep playing with the hoist and have the transmission on a jack? Or do you unbolt the rear of the trans and push it back some?


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When installing engines with the transmission still in the vehicle, I find that the key to success is having the 'tilt' of the rear flange match the 'tilt' of the transmission. If you don't have one of those engine-tilters on your engine hoist, you have to get the rigging right before the engine comes off the stand. A little bit can be gained by jacking the transmission a little higher than normal, get some bolts in the engine/trans, LOWER THE JACK FIRST, then lower the engine onto the mounts.

You shouldn't have to mess with the rear trans mount. Double-check that the torque converter is fully inserted. That the pump has been engaged by the snout. Important.

I don't do a lot of Fords, but Fords have studs on the torque converters. As the engine/trans gets close together, you may have to align the studs on the converter with the holes in the flexplate by rotating the converter. This may or may not be necessary, but something to be aware of.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I was able to get the trans mated to the engine tonight, I was extremely gentle. I don’t think the torque converter studs contacted the flex plate at all. I was very careful to guide them in there

The only thing I’m fighting now is getting the drivers side motor Mount in. The pass side went in after jacking the engine & trans up as one, but the oil cooler makes it harder to get the drivers side one in. I’ll keep messing with it


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Thanks for the reply. I was able to get the trans mated to the engine tonight, I was extremely gentle. I don’t think the torque converter studs contacted the flex plate at all. I was very careful to guide them in there

The only thing I’m fighting now is getting the drivers side motor Mount in. The pass side went in after jacking the engine & trans up as one, but the oil cooler makes it harder to get the drivers side one in. I’ll keep messing with it


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You should post some pics of your adventure

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So yesterday as I was wrestling the engine back over the cross member into the truck, the turbo contacted the cowl. The wastegate actuator clip and stud on the wastegate itself that the rod mounts to broke off. Has anyone had this happen before? I think may need to just weld the rod to the wastegate. I don’t think the tunes I have utilize the wastegate much anyway


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So yesterday as I was wrestling the engine back over the cross member into the truck, the turbo contacted the cowl. The wastegate actuator clip and stud on the wastegate itself that the rod mounts to broke off. Has anyone had this happen before? I think may need to just weld the rod to the wastegate. I don’t think the tunes I have utilize the wastegate much anyway


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You were reinstalling with the turbo still on the engine? Wow that must have been a tight fit. Seems like a good time to upgrade to the turbomaster wastegate and get rid of the actuator.
 
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