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I asked and they told me they didn't have that - now I wonder if the person I talked to knew what they were talking about.

On a different note, it looks like the wheel I'm going to have to track down is an Eagle Alloys 0589-7887. Any suggestions on where to find this? I'm starting to search but hoping someone might have a great resource.
Flea-bay if you can't find anywhere else

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Yeah, I see one set on there that I think is the right part, but it's a set of four. I hope I can find a single.
There is also some junk yard network you can try. Just have to find the right yard. I did try that once and no one ever called me back or responded to my request but that's normal in south Georgia. If you live elsewhere go to different junk yard websites until you find one that has a parts locator service. Maybe you'll have better luck.

If you have to get 4 then perhaps it's time to change the style.

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Going to be tackling the oil pan itself in the next couple days, planning on flipping the engine over as per the book

Does anyone know if you need to remove the glow plugs and crank the engine after flipping it over? Not sure if there would be enough residual oil in the engine to drip down and merit this


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My left hub to lock in 4x4 won’t turn. What is the recommended replacement manufacturer? We don’t use 4x4 much but when I need it I sure would like it to work. I may replace the front wheel bearings/ hub assemblies too.


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Here is Guzzle's write up on hub maintenance. Worked great for me and doesn't cost anything really.
When I did mine I went to manual locking by plugging the vacuum ports so I would never have to worry about a leak and this eliminates the need to replace the sealing o-rings.

 

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There is also some junk yard network you can try. Just have to find the right yard. I did try that once and no one ever called me back or responded to my request but that's normal in south Georgia. If you live elsewhere go to different junk yard websites until you find one that has a parts locator service. Maybe you'll have better luck.

If you have to get 4 then perhaps it's time to change the style.

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Yeah, I am going to have to check around pick-and-pull sites to see what I can find. Searching online isn't getting me all that far.


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Pretty disappointing news... have my engine flipped over with the pan off, and 3 cam lobes are starting to get wiped out. I always noticed this engine seemed to be a tad low on power, but didn’t expect the cam shaft to be the culprit. I figured poorly sealed piston rings

This is what you get when you buy from Jasper. @guitarnut this is for you

The engine has 90k on it. Oil changed every 3-5k, clean air filter, etc. the engine looks mint inside besides this issue, perfectly clean, no discoloration

This engine needed:
-injector cups replaced
-oil pan replaced
-camshaft replacement/failure

There’s no excuse for this, I’m sure Jasper stuck in a Chinese cam, or one that was badly damaged. My dads 7.3 has 316k on it with no signs of slowing down anytime soon

Not sure what my next move is. The engine ran decent

My 3 options are:
-shove this engine back in and run it
-replace the camshaft (I have a good stock one sitting in the corner)
-ditch this engine and rebuild the block I have sitting in the garage


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Pretty disappointing news... have my engine flipped over with the pan off, and 3 cam lobes are starting to get wiped out. I always noticed this engine seemed to be a tad low on power, but didn’t expect the cam shaft to be the culprit. I figured poorly sealed piston rings

This is what you get when you buy from Jasper. @guitarnut this is for you

The engine has 90k on it. Oil changed every 3-5k, clean air filter, etc. the engine looks mint inside besides this issue, perfectly clean, no discoloration

This engine needed:
-injector cups replaced
-oil pan replaced
-camshaft replacement/failure

There’s no excuse for this, I’m sure Jasper stuck in a Chinese cam, or one that was badly damaged. My dads 7.3 has 316k on it with no signs of slowing down anytime soon

Not sure what my next move is. The engine ran decent

My 3 options are:
-shove this engine back in and run it
-replace the camshaft (I have a good stock one sitting in the corner)
-ditch this engine and rebuild the block I have sitting in the garage


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If you're in there and have a cam I'd change it
 

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That’s probably what I’ll do. Swap in my good used cam and new lifters. I’m hoping to do all this without removing the heads with the engine upside down

I’ll take the rocker arms off so there’s no spring pressure in the lifters, slide the cam out, then lifters. Then the reverse for reinstallation


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Pretty disappointing news... have my engine flipped over with the pan off, and 3 cam lobes are starting to get wiped out. I always noticed this engine seemed to be a tad low on power, but didn’t expect the cam shaft to be the culprit. I figured poorly sealed piston rings

This is what you get when you buy from Jasper. @guitarnut this is for you

The engine has 90k on it. Oil changed every 3-5k, clean air filter, etc. the engine looks mint inside besides this issue, perfectly clean, no discoloration

This engine needed:
-injector cups replaced
-oil pan replaced
-camshaft replacement/failure

There’s no excuse for this, I’m sure Jasper stuck in a Chinese cam, or one that was badly damaged. My dads 7.3 has 316k on it with no signs of slowing down anytime soon

Not sure what my next move is. The engine ran decent

My 3 options are:
-shove this engine back in and run it
-replace the camshaft (I have a good stock one sitting in the corner)
-ditch this engine and rebuild the block I have sitting in the garage


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I'm not saying Jasper is flawless. I think all remanufactured engines suffer avoidable problems. I once had an reman put in my 77 Buick and it exploded upon startup (bad cam) and blew out the transmission bell housing. New motor had flattened cam lobes so azone gave a new cam. Similar on my 77 bronco, new engine was never quite right.

Jasper is the best on the remanufactured market. I don't understand why these makers have to cut such stupid corners. Obviously it would have made it through the warranty and that's all they care about.

Unfortunately, most of us don't have your level of skill or reputable shops in the area to fix our trucks so we're stuck with the best we can find... jasper

I'd put the cam in and run it. Maybe she'll go another 90k

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Good ole Jasper quality. Im pretty sure this isn’t even an oem camshaft. But oh well, I have the new (good used) cam installed, just need to reseal the timing cover. Then I’m back on track


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Good ole Jasper quality.
Having a Jasper engine is a good reason to conduct regular Oil Analysis to identify possible problems such as this before they become an engine-destroying, or trip-ending catastrophic failure. A Blackstone would easily pick this up.

Probably even MORE of a justification to conduct a UOA as part of a Pre-purchase Acceptance if there is a Jasper engine between the fenders.

That type of wear on roller-lifter camshafts is typical of high mileage in service, and sometimes other factors such oil viscosity, API classification of the oil, change interval, and operating RPM range. Normally, fretting of the hardened surface of the lobes is just the result of a long in-service time. Jasper probably installed a high-mileage used cam that met their re-use specs for wear. 80,000 miles later, it is worn out. That cam could have 350,000+ on it.
 

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I agree, I think an oil analysis is in my future

Although, after pulling the cam out, there aren’t really any lips that formed where the lobe is eaten away. I did a cam replacement on a 6.0 vortec engine where the lobes looked like this, and there was a noticeable lip on either side of the indentation. Also, the lifter wheel was all chewed up. The lifters in my engine look in perfect condition, and the wheels all spin as they should

This leads me to believe the cam was machined at Jasper and looked like this when they assembled the engine. The engine is spotless inside, not a single spec of anything worrisome in the pan or anywhere. Very odd

But overall, I’ll feel a lot better knowing I’m running a camshaft that hasn’t been machined by monkeys, and still has its outer shell of hardness. With a new oil pan this engine should be better than it ever was


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In my small circle of gearheads I've always heard good things about Jasper, until........
Just recently a buddy had his boat engine replaced with a Jasper product and after 2 replacements (under warranty failures) and total of 10 months out of service, now I'm not so sure anymore.
 

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Apparently they used to be a good company back in the day. But the company changed hands somewhere around 2007 I believe, then quality went downhill very fast. It’s been a while since I looked into it, but that’s what I remember


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I replaced battery cables on my 7.3 today. I didn’t replace the relay to solenoid cable or the battery to gpr cable.
Does anybody know what size nut that is on the passenger side block ground? I couldn’t get the nut off that holds the grounds on but did get the outside one off that holds the bracket on for the battery to starter cable.


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Apparently they used to be a good company back in the day. But the company changed hands somewhere around 2007 I believe, then quality went downhill very fast. It’s been a while since I looked into it, but that’s what I remember


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Well it's good that they aren't all bad! A new camshaft isn't a huge expense and maybe an upgrade is in order.


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Installed an edge CTS3 today, was a little disappointed that it doesn't display ECT even though my 7.3 has two sensors. Also wasn't pulling any data at first and found out I had to update the software and then enter the VIN manually. Seems like an archaic system for the price even though they got good reviews. Looks like I can add a sensor to the Edge with their EAS system, but that'll cost me another pretty penny. Anybody know if there's a reading for ECT able to be pulled into the CTS3 using the factory sensors?
 

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Installed an edge CTS3 today, was a little disappointed that it doesn't display ECT even though my 7.3 has two sensors. Also wasn't pulling any data at first and found out I had to update the software and then enter the VIN manually. Seems like an archaic system for the price even though they got good reviews. Looks like I can add a sensor to the Edge with their EAS system, but that'll cost me another pretty penny. Anybody know if there's a reading for ECT able to be pulled into the CTS3 using the factory sensors?
CTS3 reads everything that the pcm does and the ect is not monitored by pcm so you will need to add a sensor for that.
OR just monitor eot (it goes through pcm)


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