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Pulled passenger side front axles shaft after I found oil seeping around the dust seal...Looks like I'll be replacing the inner seal.
Mine is the same, but the inner seal looks like a pretty involved job ya?

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They make a special tool that is worth the cost otherwise really not a terrible job for just the seal though. The tool is so you can install the new seal without damaging it. Some made some nice DIY stuff but not everyone has the tools to make that either lol.
 

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Mine is the same, but the inner seal looks like a pretty involved job ya?

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@Bri_Man57 I have never done it before, going to tackle it this weekend. I wish they made an after market dust seal for the later model trucks instead of the crappy rubber dust seal. Either way I'll take some pics and report back to ya!
 

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They make a special tool that is worth the cost otherwise really not a terrible job for just the seal though. The tool is so you can install the new seal without damaging it. Some made some nice DIY stuff but not everyone has the tools to make that either lol.
@JustinOOO9 Will you post a link to the tool?
 

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@JustinOOO9 Will you post a link to the tool?

Double check but their is one for the up to 04 model and one for the 05 and up model:

diy tool: Ford Super Duty Knuckle Seal Tool - AKA OTC 6695 - Superdutypsd.com

amazon links for the different models from a reputable tool company:


 
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Honestly just about any properly spec'ed fluid is all you need. I am usually able to get Valvoline at walmart/napa or the auto parts places like autozone/o'riley but the fact you are even changing the rear dif is more than most truck owners frankly. If you have the limited slip just look at the fluid label. Some has it already added and some doesn't. Adding to much of the limited slip additive isn't good but like I said most don't change it so you'll be fine with 99% of the fluids out there.
I checked with Eaton/Detroit, and they told me (on the phone) use 80W-90 petroleum oil--and NOT synthetic oil. Said they want some friction in there for the LS to work, and synthetic takes that away. I thought about it, and sent them an email about 3 days ago asking why. This LS doesn't use clutch plates like the older ones, but instead is all gear drive/spring pressure. Since it is all gears, I told them I figured the less friction the better and if they would explain why not use synthetic on this type of LS diff. Haven't heard back from them yet.

I've noticed that I am not getting any notices from this forum again, even though I am signed up to receive notice when a new post is put up. Any ideas what's going on?
 

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Double check but their is one for the up to 04 model and one for the 05 and up model:

diy tool: Ford Super Duty Knuckle Seal Tool - AKA OTC 6695 - Superdutypsd.com

amazon links for the different models from a reputable tool company:


Thank you @JustinOOO9! Any thoughts on buying the tool versus the homemade? Looks to me like the actual tool by OTC will regulate how far in you drive the shaft.
 

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Day 5 in ongoing dispute with insurance company trying to label my truck a "Total Loss" over single vehicle incident w/ zero property damage... and it is purely cosmetic.

On the bright side LA Dept of Insurance assured me that they MUST use 75% current NADA to label "Total Loss"... not CCC "valuation" which they could use for settlement value post defining a Total Loss in accordance with state law. They are in clear violation.

Through all my research I have learned if you live in Louisiana, North Dakota, Kentucky, or Connecticut (CT is avg of one 3rd party and NADA, others are 75% NADA only) do not let an insurance company try to use their hired 3rd party short you and push you to settlement or call your vehicle a total loss - if you want it repaired. The correct TL for my vehicle is greater than or equal to roughly $12k. Their assessment is 75% of $8k... so $6k... HALF of the legally defined determination. With their substantially low "valuation" the amount over for estimated repair and "loss" is less than 200$... so really it would need to be $5800 MORE before they could actually call it a Total Loss.
 

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Day 5 in ongoing dispute with insurance company trying to label my truck a "Total Loss" over single vehicle incident w/ zero property damage... and it is purely cosmetic.

On the bright side LA Dept of Insurance assured me that they MUST use 75% current NADA to label "Total Loss"... not CCC "valuation" which they could use for settlement value post defining a Total Loss in accordance with state law. They are in clear violation.

Through all my research I have learned if you live in Louisiana, North Dakota, Kentucky, or Connecticut (CT is avg of one 3rd party and NADA, others are 75% NADA only) do not let an insurance company try to use their hired 3rd party short you and push you to settlement or call your vehicle a total loss - if you want it repaired. The correct TL for my vehicle is greater than or equal to roughly $12k. Their assessment is 75% of $8k... so $6k... HALF of the legally defined determination. With their substantially low "valuation" the amount over for estimated repair and "loss" is less than 200$... so really it would need to be $5800 MORE before they could actually call it a Total Loss.

fight them. My truck got T-bones by a lady texting and driving. Very low speed and only damaged my truck bed in front of the pass rear tire, broke back support of side step, and cut the tire.

the body shop was paid $5700+.... a total crap show trying to claim that much. But on a 1999 F250 with 120k and they didn’t try a total loss on my truck. The bed panel that was bent was still 6+ in from the frame but the shop saw $$$ when they learned it was an insurance payment vs regular customer.
 

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Eaton got back with me and had me call ther tech support line. I called again and got a different person (Barney). He explained that the front part of the helical gears in the TruTrac are what grabs to cause it to lock in (I guess similar to the plates in other models), and the use of synthetic oils (he said they haven't tested all sythetics but did test several) will make it too slippery and cause it to not properly lock the axle as designed. So, I will go ahead and change it out after a bit and put in the regular 80W-90 gear oil.
 

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Changed the oil in both trucks
 

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today is oil/filter and fuel filter.

ps Anyone use tirebuyer for trailer tires? Need some F rated 235/85r16s and its about $602 installed if i order from tirbuyer and the local shop installs them they partner with the tire shop i guess) If i buy direct from the local shop its $850ish from all the shops i called. I want to support local but that is a lot of dough for "free rotations and flat repair" Anyone thoughts? I got some Carlisle Radial Trail HD from amazon for the side by side trailer but two needs ungodly amounts of weight to balance and they were not the proper speed rating I ordered lol. Little leary of tires from Amazon from that.
 

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DO YOU HAVE COSTCO IN YOUR AREA?....THEY SEEM TO HAVE GOOD PRICES ON TIRES.....
 

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TireRack shows a couple of choices from Power King Tow-Max at $105.00 with free shipping. I've used Power King on my enclosed and the results were satisfactory. Enclosed trailers can have outside edge-wear that looks like "under-inflation" but under-inflation is NOT the cause. My trailer suffers from this. The Power Kings lasted as long as other brands I've used.
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Edge-wear on enclosed trailers:
I have had my trailer 15 years, and have over 60,000 miles on it. The tires have always shown excessive edge-wear, especially on the RH side, outside edge. For the first 20,000 miles I towed with a 460 gasser E250. My highway speed was usually 62-64 MPH as I couldn't go much faster, and everything passed me including every Class-8 big rig on the highway. For the past 40,000 miles I've towed with my 7.3, and I can go any speed I want, usually right at posted limit. Very few big trucks pass me. I noticed that the edge-wear was greatly reduced after I was towing with the Super Duty. When the big-truck begins the pass on the Left, its "bow-wave" of air pushes the enclosed trailer over on its side, loading the RH tires' outside edge. With fewer trucks now passing me, the outside RH edges show less wear, but because I now pass more slower Class-8s, the LH outside edges are showing increased wear from the bow-wave of the truck when it pushes the trailer on its LH tires.

^^ This has been a public service message.^^ Now you know what took me a long time to figure out.
 

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Fresh fuel! Truck got some fresh fuel the other day and I finally have everything needed for my pre-winter maintenance.

Fuel filter
Oil filter
4 gal of oil
tire rotation (rears have been wearing faster latley with the trailer being attached 24/7 basically. It will get a break for the maintenance and thats about it...

Then grease bearings, and re-do some wiring on the trailer.

The funny part is everyone must be buying oil like crazy because I have 2 gal of the rotella t6 15w-40 full synthetic, 1 gal of rotella t5 15w-40 syn blend, and 1 gal of delo 15w-40 syn blend lol... No idea why the oil has been flying off the shelf. Even the Supertech was gone. Tons of 5w/10w non diesel oil all over though.
 

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The funny part is everyone must be buying oil like crazy because I have 2 gal of the rotella t6 15w-40 full synthetic, 1 gal of rotella t5 15w-40 syn blend, and 1 gal of delo 15w-40 syn blend lol... No idea why the oil has been flying off the shelf. Even the Supertech was gone. Tons of 5w/10w non diesel oil all over though.
They were probably thinking, "We better get ours before Justin gets here!" 🤭 🤭
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I've been working from home enough that when I bought diesel the other day, it'd been almost a month since I'd filled up. I guess that's one advantage of WFM.
 

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Broke it. Went to get a tank of water, ran fine and started right up at the fire station. Got home took water to the cattle now it's a no start. ICP builds to 2500 psi but just cranks. No smoke, no start
 

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Over the weekend change fuel filter, oil, and rotated the tires. Had a Frankenstein mix of 15w-40 full syn and syn bled since diesel oil has been in high demand lately. Fuel filter looked amazing for 12k miles. I used to go 10k but after a few felt it was a little unnecessary for my driving style. now back to 12-15k just didn't want to do it in the dead of winter so just a tad early lol.
 

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Over the weekend change fuel filter, oil, and rotated the tires. Had a Frankenstein mix of 15w-40 full syn and syn bled since diesel oil has been in high demand lately. Fuel filter looked amazing for 12k miles. I used to go 10k but after a few felt it was a little unnecessary for my driving style. now back to 12-15k just didn't want to do it in the dead of winter so just a tad early lol.
I change my oil every 5k. I feel bad if it hits 5100 or more between oil changes!
 
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