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Went and picked up a new A/C unit for the house, get home notice oil spot on the driveway. The oil dipstick flange is leaking again, so back to my tech for another try at it,
 

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Does anyone know, removing the PTO cover on the ZF6 if I need to drain the transmission first? I think I have a leaky PTO cover but don't want to pull that plate and have a few gallons of ATF hit me in the face LOL.
 

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Went and picked up a new A/C unit for the house, get home notice oil spot on the driveway. The oil dipstick flange is leaking again, so back to my tech for another try at it,
I've found the only real fix is to just pull the pan and get a new adapter. Or buck up the ponies for that fancy milled aluminum kit, but I wasn't comfortable pushing my old adapter back into the pan
 

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TODAY.....I FINALLY GOT A NEW FRONT BUMPER AND AIR DAM.....TO REPLACE MY BENT BUMPER.....

HOPEFULLY I CAN GET INTO MY BUDDYS SHOP IN THE NEXT FEW WEEKS AND INSTALL IT.....

BUT....I HAVE TO WAIT AND SEE WHAT THE GOVERNOR DECIDES IN THE NEXT COUPLE OF WEEKS ABOUT BEING OUT AND ABOUT.....TODAY'S ORDER WAS.....AS OF 8:00 P.M......EVERYBODY WHO DOES NOT NEED TO BE OUT.....TO STAY HOME.....

IN THE MEAN TIME.....WD-40 AND PB BLASTER WILL BE THE TOOL OF CHOICE.....
 

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TODAY.....I FINALLY GOT A NEW FRONT BUMPER AND AIR DAM.....TO REPLACE MY BENT BUMPER.....

HOPEFULLY I CAN GET INTO MY BUDDYS SHOP IN THE NEXT FEW WEEKS AND INSTALL IT.....

BUT....I HAVE TO WAIT AND SEE WHAT THE GOVERNOR DECIDES IN THE NEXT COUPLE OF WEEKS ABOUT BEING OUT AND ABOUT.....TODAY'S ORDER WAS.....AS OF 8:00 P.M......EVERYBODY WHO DOES NOT NEED TO BE OUT.....TO STAY HOME.....

IN THE MEAN TIME.....WD-40 AND PB BLASTER WILL BE THE TOOL OF CHOICE.....
Pics! Pics! Pics! We wanna see!
 

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Pics! Pics! Pics! We wanna see!
I WILL POST PHOTOS SOON.....IT IS WRAPPED IN CARDBOARD RIGHT NOW AND I DON'T WANT TO UNWRAP UNTIL I AM READY TO INSTALL.....

SO.....LIKE A MOVIE PREVIEW.....COMING SOON..... :p
 

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Went and picked up a new A/C unit for the house, get home notice oil spot on the driveway. The oil dipstick flange is leaking again, so back to my tech for another try at it,
Get the strictly diesel adapter. Worth every penny. My original 20 yr old dipstick adapter started to least last winter. Followed the instruction to a T with new oem kit. Leaked in about a week.

did the strictly kit and has been leak free since. PS if your bottom end sucks up that brass adapter in the pan you got bigger troubles lol.

I know it’s $$ but it’s just a really good product for a very unique set up.
 

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So we have taken a short camping trip, and for the first bit the truck wanted to run a tad hotter, but after few miles it settled down to normal, guessing it needed a few miles since I had just done a new radiator, thermostat and added a coolant filter. And as far as the oil leak on the F 250 my mechanic will fix it, since it's under his warranty period.
 

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Rinsed the pollen off just for a pop-up thunderstorm to roll through an hour later. Work and School both letting me work from home has been quite an adjustment. Thankful I'm still bringing home a paycheck, a lot of folks I know aren't.
 

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Ordered more and more parts, this time pertaining to the hutch tank mod from riffraff. Love that site and their products, but man that kit is incomplete.

Also finished the first round of cleaning up the bed section of the frame. Not being able to find masks right now really sucks when you're a midnight worker, out in your garage at 2am, running a wire brush on a grinder, knocking off the 20 years of rust from a frame with the doors closed.

I washed it off and cleaned up the floor, which was absolutely wrecked (along with the rest of my garage, yay). Next set of days off will be: finish the hutch mod; Clean/prep the frame; Por15 frame; Cutout header panel for 05 lights; Asses remaining por15 for use on bed
 

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Ordered more and more parts, this time pertaining to the hutch tank mod from riffraff. Love that site and their products, but man that kit is incomplete.

Also finished the first round of cleaning up the bed section of the frame. Not being able to find masks right now really sucks when you're a midnight worker, out in your garage at 2am, running a wire brush on a grinder, knocking off the 20 years of rust from a frame with the doors closed.

I washed it off and cleaned up the floor, which was absolutely wrecked (along with the rest of my garage, yay). Next set of days off will be: finish the hutch mod; Clean/prep the frame; Por15 frame; Cutout header panel for 05 lights; Asses remaining por15 for use on bed
It's going to be a solid truck when you are done.

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I've found the only real fix is to just pull the pan and get a new adapter. Or buck up the ponies for that fancy milled aluminum kit, but I wasn't comfortable pushing my old adapter back into the pan
Ames485 I did the expensive adapter that was some cash very well designed has worked great for the last 4 years no leaks. I went this way cause after 3 failed attempts by my ford shop of choice. By the way not there fault. The inner pice was so bent it just would not hold the o ring. I had no issues with the pice in the pan. Good luck.


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well more of a future what did you do.... I have a new positive battery cable/starter solenoid set up from custom battery cables, my winch, cradle, and wiring and quick connectors. So this weekend if nothing else happens I can finally get them installed.

I was able to order new negative cables from riffraff but thought ill order the positive later... Wrong Ford doesn't make them anymore lol. The cables seemed pricey but then I priced out all the pieces, my time, buying a crimper, solder, small torch etc. I probably only saved about $20 but also all the time of building etc. Pics soon and another review.
 

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THat's good to know. I ended up pulling my engine and getting a moroso pan and new adapter. My exhaust manifold bolts were stripped and welded to each other when I went to put in new up-pipes, so I bit the bullet and pulled that heavy son of a gun lol

Ames485 I did the expensive adapter that was some cash very well designed has worked great for the last 4 years no leaks. I went this way cause after 3 failed attempts by my ford shop of choice. By the way not there fault. The inner pice was so bent it just would not hold the o ring. I had no issues with the pice in the pan. Good luck.


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I had a rear leaking axle hub seal on the passenger side for a few months, finally took the time to replace it. I did both sides while I was at it to just check the bearings. Good thing I did, because both sides were missing the slinger ring which I put new ones in. Pretty easy job.
766042

766043


766044


Also replaced my fuel filler neck which had a pinhole in it and was rustier than hell. I guess the PO replaced the bed and was too lazy to replace the filler neck. Also replaced the rubber filler hose with new marine fuel hose since the old hose was kind of rusty and worn out after 18 years exposed to diesel fuel and the elements.
766045

766046
 

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.............

Also replaced my fuel filler neck which had a pinhole in it and was rustier than hell. I guess the PO replaced the bed and was too lazy to replace the filler neck. Also replaced the rubber filler hose with new marine fuel hose since the old hose was kind of rusty and worn out after 18 years exposed to diesel fuel and the elements.
View attachment 766045
View attachment 766046
How much did that marine hose cost you, and how well did it conform?
 

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How much did that marine hose cost you, and how well did it conform?
Ebay, it was a little pricey, I paid $15 for 1 foot, but $7.50 of that was for shipping so if you order longer lengths you pay the same shipping. I had to work it over the filler neck hose, the metal reinforcement made it a little tougher but a heat gun worked well to help loosen it up a bit. My old filler hose was in less than stellar shape, I was going to go to the junk yard and pick a hose but figured they be in the same condition. You might check your local marine supply store if you have one, not sure if they'd be any cheaper or not. Link is here
 

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THat's good to know. I ended up pulling my engine and getting a moroso pan and new adapter. My exhaust manifold bolts were stripped and welded to each other when I went to put in new up-pipes, so I bit the bullet and pulled that heavy son of a gun lol

I had a rear leaking axle hub seal on the passenger side for a few months, finally took the time to replace it. I did both sides while I was at it to just check the bearings. Good thing I did, because both sides were missing the slinger ring which I put new ones in. Pretty easy job.

Also replaced my fuel filler neck which had a pinhole in it and was rustier than hell. I guess the PO replaced the bed and was too lazy to replace the filler neck. Also replaced the rubber filler hose with new marine fuel hose since the old hose was kind of rusty and worn out after 18 years exposed to diesel fuel and the elements.
FIRST.....NICE JOB.....I HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS.....

WHY DID YOU USE THE MOROSO OIL PAN INSTEAD OF THE FORD OIL PAN?....

ANY IDEA WHAT HAPPENED TO THE OIL SLINGERS.....HAVE YOU EVER SEEN ANYONE INTENTIONALLY LEAVE THEM OUT BEFORE?....

DID YOU USE MARINE HOSE BECAUSE IT IS SUPPOSED TO LAST LONGER?....ARE YOU LOOKING TO GO PAST 18 YEARS THAT THE FACTORY HOSES LASTED?.... :p
 

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Well drove home from a short camping trip, and it's time for a actual coolant gauge. The needle ran a little higher than where it normally runs but never overheated, oil temp was less than 210*. So do I go with the kit to plug into my SCT2 for a whopping $200 or go cheaper route, I don't want a cluster of miss matched gauges a;l over the place so I don;t know what I want to do. Got my Riffraff billet fuel bowl cap, and I was not sure it was worth the money, boy it's nice.
 

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Does anyone know, removing the PTO cover on the ZF6 if I need to drain the transmission first? I think I have a leaky PTO cover but don't want to pull that plate and have a few gallons of ATF hit me in the face LOL.
Yeah, you’ll have to drain it first lol


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