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When I get my turbo finally reinstalled correctly, I'll confirm throughout the dial and report back.
 

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Brakes

I know the power stop stuff is good but expensive. But I bought my kit off eBay from brake_overstock for less than half of the power stop price. When I received the parts I used the barcode scanner on my phone and scanned all parts all came out as powerstop. Drilled and slotted rotors zink plated, red powder coated calipers with brackets and ceramic pads.
 

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I know the power stop stuff is good but expensive. But I bought my kit off eBay from brake_overstock for less than half of the power stop price. When I received the parts I used the barcode scanner on my phone and scanned all parts all came out as powerstop. Drilled and slotted rotors zink plated, red powder coated calipers with brackets and ceramic pads.
Their rotors are actually pretty cheap IMO. I got all for corners for roughly $250.00 from 4 wheel Parts Love them! Didn't get their rotors though because they only come in red.
JARED

Didn't get their CALIPERS though because they only come in red.
 

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I know the power stop stuff is good but expensive. But I bought my kit off eBay from brake_overstock for less than half of the power stop price. When I received the parts I used the barcode scanner on my phone and scanned all parts all came out as powerstop. Drilled and slotted rotors zink plated, red powder coated calipers with brackets and ceramic pads.
THOSE LOOK JUST LIKE THE POWERSTOP BRAKE KIT.....
 

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I used the drilled/slotted Nakamoto rotors and pads from 1A Auto on my '04, they were cheaper than the PowerStop units
 

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Don’t forget to vote your fellow 7.3 pal to a win! March poll is up! I’m up by 1 vote!!!

I need some cushion!!!

Please get out and vote!!

Eyeing my first win!!!
 

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This is a weird one - hopefully I can get some thoughts on how to solve this annoying problem. On Saturday, I went to rent a trailer at uhaul. After we hooked up the 4-pin, I had left turn lights but no right side. I went to look under the truck for a bad wire, since I got hit by someone recently and they slid under my bumper, bending the electrical hookup mount back and cracking part of the plastic; I figured it was likely a physical problem. In the meantime, apparently the uhaul guy decided to check for a bad fuse (right answer, was one of the ones in the under-hood box blown, so easy fix) but he didn't bother to look in the manual for which fuse to check - he just started pulling and visually checking EVERY fuse in my in-cab fuse box, while the truck was on but not running. I made him stop, but I don't know how many he pulled and replaced before I realized what he was doing.


After I got the fuse fixed under the hood and was on my way, I realized the airbag light was on. I figured it probably confused the computer, so I checked the fuses (with the damn truck OFF) and according to the manual, there are three related to the airbag:


2 - 10A - airbag module
22 - 10A - airbag module, passenger airbag activation/deactivation switch, blower motor relay coil
29 - 5A - instrument cluster (charge and airbag warning lamps)


All three of these fuses are intact, verified with a tester.


The airbag light comes on when I switch the truck to ON, started or not. It does not flash at all, and it doesn't go out until I turn the truck off again.


I tried disconnecting both batteries overnight, approx 12 hours. No change. I tried the key-on/key-off 255+ times trick, no luck there either. This morning I ran down to my local diesel shop; they hooked up a code reader (maxgo wireless unit if it matters) and it's not reporting any codes at all, they tried clearing codes but no joy.


So any ideas? I'm at a loss as to what to do next; the shop can dig into it further but it'll be a diagnostics charge which I'd prefer to avoid.
 

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This is a weird one - hopefully I can get some thoughts on how to solve this annoying problem. On Saturday, I went to rent a trailer at uhaul. After we hooked up the 4-pin, I had left turn lights but no right side. I went to look under the truck for a bad wire, since I got hit by someone recently and they slid under my bumper, bending the electrical hookup mount back and cracking part of the plastic; I figured it was likely a physical problem. In the meantime, apparently the uhaul guy decided to check for a bad fuse (right answer, was one of the ones in the under-hood box blown, so easy fix) but he didn't bother to look in the manual for which fuse to check - he just started pulling and visually checking EVERY fuse in my in-cab fuse box, while the truck was on but not running. I made him stop, but I don't know how many he pulled and replaced before I realized what he was doing.





After I got the fuse fixed under the hood and was on my way, I realized the airbag light was on. I figured it probably confused the computer, so I checked the fuses (with the damn truck OFF) and according to the manual, there are three related to the airbag:





2 - 10A - airbag module

22 - 10A - airbag module, passenger airbag activation/deactivation switch, blower motor relay coil

29 - 5A - instrument cluster (charge and airbag warning lamps)





All three of these fuses are intact, verified with a tester.





The airbag light comes on when I switch the truck to ON, started or not. It does not flash at all, and it doesn't go out until I turn the truck off again.





I tried disconnecting both batteries overnight, approx 12 hours. No change. I tried the key-on/key-off 255+ times trick, no luck there either. This morning I ran down to my local diesel shop; they hooked up a code reader (maxgo wireless unit if it matters) and it's not reporting any codes at all, they tried clearing codes but no joy.





So any ideas? I'm at a loss as to what to do next; the shop can dig into it further but it'll be a diagnostics charge which I'd prefer to avoid.


Have you disconnected the air bag?

Or checked the wiring to the sensors in the front end?
 

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Weather was finally nice enough to give me a break and I installed a front/rear duraflap mudflap set. If you have anything above stock size YOU NEED the extra wide pair.... I only have 285/75r16s and wow was I lucky to order the wide set lol. Honestly though Im still going to change a couple of things. One downfall of being a no drill install is there are 4 holes and only two use bolts to hold them to the fenders. 2 are these albeit stainless pieces totally readneck friction clamp things. I will probably remove and actually drill two holes and put some good primer/paint and rust prevention on them That and the instructions were very very difficult to understand. I ended up just looking at them and adjusting the holes on the flap and guessing. still they look amazing and work very well.

Highly recommend them and they are doing their job while looking good too. Again my issue is only the two friction clip designed holes on two of the 4 holes other than that wow! I didn't get the front pictured yet but already taken the truck out for a spin and worth every penny.
 

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This is a weird one - hopefully I can get some thoughts on how to solve this annoying problem. On Saturday, I went to rent a trailer at uhaul. After we hooked up the 4-pin, I had left turn lights but no right side. I went to look under the truck for a bad wire, since I got hit by someone recently and they slid under my bumper, bending the electrical hookup mount back and cracking part of the plastic; I figured it was likely a physical problem. In the meantime, apparently the uhaul guy decided to check for a bad fuse (right answer, was one of the ones in the under-hood box blown, so easy fix) but he didn't bother to look in the manual for which fuse to check - he just started pulling and visually checking EVERY fuse in my in-cab fuse box, while the truck was on but not running. I made him stop, but I don't know how many he pulled and replaced before I realized what he was doing.


After I got the fuse fixed under the hood and was on my way, I realized the airbag light was on. I figured it probably confused the computer, so I checked the fuses (with the damn truck OFF) and according to the manual, there are three related to the airbag:


2 - 10A - airbag module
22 - 10A - airbag module, passenger airbag activation/deactivation switch, blower motor relay coil
29 - 5A - instrument cluster (charge and airbag warning lamps)


All three of these fuses are intact, verified with a tester.


The airbag light comes on when I switch the truck to ON, started or not. It does not flash at all, and it doesn't go out until I turn the truck off again.


I tried disconnecting both batteries overnight, approx 12 hours. No change. I tried the key-on/key-off 255+ times trick, no luck there either. This morning I ran down to my local diesel shop; they hooked up a code reader (maxgo wireless unit if it matters) and it's not reporting any codes at all, they tried clearing codes but no joy.


So any ideas? I'm at a loss as to what to do next; the shop can dig into it further but it'll be a diagnostics charge which I'd prefer to avoid.
That is a weird one! If it was flashing it would give you the code. Maybe the org librarian might have something for you. @djmaguire ?
 

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Ok boys! My last push for the poll.

I’m down by 7 votes for the win.

Not looking promising.

Thanks for everyone that tossed a vote my way!!!
 

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Odd that I haven't been getting any updates from when someone puts up a new post on the forum.

Anyway--here is a pic of me and my son with what we put on the truck today:
View attachment 716965
It's either a glitch in the matrix or the Russians. :)

That's happened to me before, I've gone for a couple weeks without notices then they started up again. Damn Russians. :wink[3]:
 

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We've had a lot of rain this year. Finally, a clear weekend. Got the oil / filter changed (about 1k over) and changed out my rear shocks. Still need to get the front ones changed. The right rear shock was leaking and I could feel the wheel bounce when going over a bump. I went with KYB MonoMax.
 
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