What did you do to your 7.3 Today?

2338211 Views 26906 Replies 1341 Participants Last post by John in OkieLand, 3 d ago

late_99_PSD

Discussion Starter · Jun 14, 2011

Well I know the 6.4 guys have a thread like this but I've never seen one for us 7.3 guys, so I figured I would start one.

So like the title says what did you do to you 7.3 today? Maintenance, performance, washed the windows, whatever.

I tested the coolant and found that it was in need of a DCA additive in the coolant. So I went to the truck stop and got a pint of DCA and a 5" band clamp. Put about half the pint in the resivor and I'll see if its any better tomorow. As far as the band clamp goes, I finally got around to fixing my tip that was held on with 3 tack welds and got a good clean clamp on it.

So what did yall do?

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Bri_Man57

· #21,620 · Dec 23, 2017

Replace the driver side seat belt, the female portion that is attached to the seat. The old one would randomly release the seatbelt, not a good feeling at all. Went ahead and got a new one off ebay, it was the wrong color but I was able to switch the sheath so it all worked out. Feels better now.

Also, PO had the seatbelt switch unplugged, I figured it was because it broke or something so when I put the new one on, I plugged it back in. Maybe they had it unplugged to stop that dang digging. I see that getting old fast lol.

Bri_Man57

· #21,662 · Jan 1, 2018

DieselDC said:
I think it looks good there!

I have one too as the wife bought one for me - just haven’t installed it. I mainly want it for reversing at night b/c I can’t see squat with the rear lights.

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forthehalibut said:
Thanks! I am looking into some small floods to put on the back later as I have that same issue backing up. This light bar only cost me $60, and they go for $330. There are three of them on one corner that don't work. I didn't realize that but understand now that when the auction house has those little green dots on the pics, that means those lights no worky. I'll just mount the bar so that those are on the bottom and it won't matter much anyway. Would've liked to get the red fog lights they had as well but got outbid--couldn't be there during the final stages of bidding. Oh, well--they sell these things along with a bunch of other stuff almost monthly.

Just thought I would throw it out there, for the lack of lighting while reversing at night, if you do the 08 tail light conversion, you have to get the correct plug that fits the 08 tailights that calls for a 194 bulb. The socket will also accept the brighter 921 bulb, and I ended up getting a LED 921 and let me tell you those things put out some light! It is so bright it might be illegal :grin:

I think the LED combined with the reflective reverse lamp area on the new tailights makes for a very nice combo. I did add some flush LED pods in the rear bumper to help in dark areas or hooking up trailers and what not, but the 08 tailights look great and I was amazed at how bring my reverse lights are.

Reactions: 1

Bri_Man57

· #21,749 · Jan 14, 2018

2

Yesterday I got to see how my truck looks on a flatbed

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Bri_Man57

· #21,755 · Jan 15, 2018

DieselDC said:
Question is what happened?!

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Towing my trailer with offroad truck on it up the Grapevine, got past the big part of the hill, heard the turbo shutdown and thought I lost a boot until I pulled over and the truck was off and wouldn't restart. Had a spare CPS and changed that thinking it was the culprit. Still wouldnt start, messed around for 40 minutes and decided to call AAA and let my friend know I wasnt going to make it. Gave it another try and it actually fired up! Got another 5 minutes down the road and it did it again so threw in the towel. On the way home my dad and I were betting it would start once we got back (sense it appeared to be something getting hot and not working) and sure as ever, it fired up like nothing was wrong when we got back.

Played with it a little today while having Torque hooked up to it. Died very early after turning it on, but quickly started again and idled for 10 minutes no issue. Hot rodded it around and got it to repeat the issue, and was able to see IPR duty cycle shoot up to 65% while ICP was only showing 180 PSI during no start condition. Between last night and this morning research, I knew that if this happened it was pointing towards a failing IPR. ICP had some oil in it so am going to replace both I think. Did have a CEL earlier in the week that shut off Friday night, but it was for #7 glowplug so i dont THINK that is related, is kind of odd it turned off though.

oilcan1001 said:
Been there, done that

Horrible feeling right?? :crying:

DieselDC said:
What a show off Jeez!!!

Lol been there done that +++

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That CCLB DRW on that rollover is no joke!!!

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Bri_Man57

· #21,758 · Jan 15, 2018

DieselDC said:
Lol he was hauling *** towing it to my mechanic that eventually [email protected]@@ me royally with chitty work (had to fix a list of chit after I received it)

Okay I know you didn’t ask but icp is hanging at 180 - that’s the reason you Can’t start your truck till it cools down a bit. When your ipr is commanding higher icp via pcm and ain’t getting it, ipr slowl increases etc ——>it’s being commanded but icp can only produce >200psi. You have a bad ipr b/c it’s being hung open and bypassing oil into the oil pan and not allowing the production of pressure.

That tow ride sounds....uncomfortable :taze:

And no worries I totally appreciate the input! Definitely the ICP being 180 is why its not starting, needs about 450 psi to fire injectors is my understanding. I think we are talking about the same situation, but I thought the PCM is telling the system it needs more ICP, and adjust the IPR accordingly. At 180 PSI, PCM says it needs more and maxes the IPR out at 65% trying to get more ICP but the IPR cant deliver (or I guess, let the HPOP deliver) since it is hung up or the electromagnet let go after it gets warm. Are we saying the same thing? LOL. Again appreciate the input!

I do believe the IPR to be the culprit. I was just going to change the ICP as well since even though it appears to be working correctly, there is some oil in the pigtail which indicates its on its way out?

welove2drive said:
Had this happen a while back. Changed out the IPR. I think that was all it would take but with over 250000 on the clock I went ahead and replaced the pump as well. Good luck with the repair.

Thanks for chiming in! I was thinking about starting my own thread but with all the research I am relatively confident the IPR is the culprit, and with the addition of yourself and @DieselDC suggesting it is the IPR I am now very confident about that being it. Some threads I have read suggest the ICP being that low with 65% IPR duty cycle is the "classic symptoms" of the IPR going out during a no start condition when at temperature. Truck has around 215K on it. ICP did hit around 2700/2800 max so I think HPOP is good.

Currently trying to find the best deal on OEM parts, they are pricey but I cant have this happen again. I was trying to take my old man out in my offroad truck, he was excited to hang with me and my buds and offroad in a place he is very interested in checking out, and the tow rig $h!t all over that plan. Unacceptable. It became very personal LOL!

So do I need the special tool to pull the IPR?

Thanks again gentlemen.

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Bri_Man57

· #21,760 · Jan 15, 2018

DieselDC said:
No worries - we are talking about the same thing. End result is bad ipr I’m a stickler for preemptive and ahead of schedule maintenance chit. So I would replace the icp as well.

Ipr is cake to replace. You need
* 1 1/8” deep socket 35ftlbs
*3/4 socket to remove that stupid sheet metal but behind the irp. 4.5/5ftlbs

(I carry it in the truck even know my ipr is new lol - old truck issues haha)

Icp depending on old and updated ones - find a wrench that fits lol.

O and that sheet metal deal behind the ipr - I replaced it with a real nut. That was the ipr I took to lowes to get the nut - not the one that went in

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Okay good, bad IPR lol. My head hurts from all the reading I have been doing the last 24 hours, but it really is awesome to have some much information available.

Thanks for the tool tips, a couple posts referenced only certain manufacturer 1 1/8" sockets fitting (crafstman) as some were too shallow. I'll give my 1 1/8" a shot and see how it goes. Looking at the IPR from the top of the motor, I didnt see that nut but I dont think I was looking for it.

Why did you replace the nut? Stock one too flimsy?

Bri_Man57

· #21,771 · Jan 16, 2018

cletusjermal said:
My deep socket was too short. I had to get an axle nut socket to get it

I saw a guy on YouTube today use what I imagine is the same socket, he had it working fine and didnt remove the fuel filter housing. I might have to spring for it depending on how deep mine is.

DieselDC said:
Yup way too flimsy and leads to a no start if it gets loose and the magnet on the back slides loose or it wiggles to a different position. That socket can be purchased at amazon or locally.
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Very interesting! I haven't seen many people do that in all the different threads I read in the last two days!

DieselDC said:
@Bri_Man57

Just in case you need some where to purchase them

1. IPR
2. ICP
3. CPS

Much more convenient for me and free shipping for the most part. Genuine stuff too. If youre buying more goodies then I would choose one place and purchase it together (rifraff, cncfab, dieselsite etc).

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Thanks for throwing those out there! I called dealer today and they wanted $347 for the IPR, and $229 for the ICP. Unbelievable.

Will probably end up ordering these, I'm in CA so it will take until the end of the week to get here but that shouldn't be too much of a problem.

Did you drain the HPOP oil when you changed the IPR? Seems like sucking it out is part of the procedure to not get oil all over the valley?

Thanks again for the help!

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Bri_Man57

· #21,778 · Jan 17, 2018

cletusjermal said:
I didn’t drain the HPOP. It didn’t really drain out that much either.

Okay Awesome! Got parts on the way so trying to dial this procedure in before they get here. Did you remove fuel bowl or intake tubing? Or did you just get down in there and change it?

Thanks again for the help!!

DieselDC said:
No, only a little drained out - wasn’t bad. However, if it did drain out, just fill her up with oil prior and you’ll be set.

Order that socket on amazon while you’re at it. I have a deep socket set for these trucks and it covers all the larger nuts that I have come across.

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I just didnt want a rush of oil coming out, but doesnt sound like it will be that bad. I will probably check the level prior to doing the IPR so I can make sure it didnt loose much.

I am hoping me or the guys next door have the socket, if not it will be a trip to O Reilys!

Did you remove the fuel bowl or any of the intake tubing when you did your IPR?

blue99stroker said:
I’ve used a Mac tools and Snap on on deep socket with no issues.

Hoping my neighbors have them! I only have the harbor freight set which I'm guessing isnt long enough.

DieselDC said:
Yeah, I love to get them tools like you bud but dammit they are expensive that’s why it’s harbor freight, kobalt, Home Depot brand (forgot what brand it was lol but I have some of them too).

The snap on fitment and build is just so nice but I just can’t afford it lol. Saw one on CL - 8ft long tool box and tools for 8k used - damn!

I have a few hand-me-down mac and snapon sockets but they are pretty beat up - the guys that have it for a living really use their tools!

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Good ol Husky Home Depot Tools! I'm in same boat, all this wrenching on cars/offroad trucks is just a hobby, cant justify the top tier tools. Craftsman's are my "nice" tools LOL!

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Bri_Man57

· #21,784 · Jan 17, 2018

DieselDC said:
Negative. Just make sure to remove the harness nice and gentle else you risk snapping the plastic pos harness.

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Copy that, will do! Worst case, they sell a pigtail for that right?

I went ahead and ordered the ICP and IPR from the links you posted, should be here tomorrow! Time to get this Stupid Duty back up and going this weekend!

cletusjermal said:
If i remember correct i had the spider taken out but left the intake tube hooked up to the intercooler. I had the fuel bowl installed for sure though. You may be able to change it with the spider inplace but it gives you a lot more working room with it removed.

I have craftsman and kobalt sockets. So those are the ones of mine that were too short. Sounds like if you can get a snap on it will work or the axle nut socket. I got my axle nut socket at the local orileys. I just took the part up there and got one that it fit into.

Thanks for the info. I think I am going to try it with removing a little as possible, but just looking for what you guys have done since you have first hand experience. And my plan C is the O reily's socket, B is neighbors, A is see what I have LOL.

cletusjermal said:
I would leave the fill hole screw on the top of the HPOP installed when you are changing the ICP though. Im guessing that is why it doesn't leak out when changing it. No air can get into the HPOP and the oil stays in it. If you have the fill screw removed I'm guessing it would allow air in and the oil could leak out.

Good call, it probably doenst leak much because there is a vacuum created. I'll hold off on opening HPOP until I see how much comes out. If it isnt much I wont worry about it.

I am also kind of excited to see if this only fixes the dying issue, or if it adds a little but of responsiveness to the truck!

Bri_Man57

· #21,811 · Jan 21, 2018

limey said:
New IPR, hope this cures the issue.

That's funny, I just changed my yesterday as well. What issue are you haivng?

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Bri_Man57

· #21,814 · Jan 21, 2018

limey said:
Every now and then it would just stall, out of the blue.

Would it instantly restart or did it have to cool down?

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Bri_Man57

· #21,816 · Jan 22, 2018

limey said:
re started straight away, it would cough and splutter sometimes too.

Got ya. Have you had a chance to drive it enough to see if would repeat the issue? I was having a different problem, mine died, wouldnt restart until it cooled down. Did some research, checked some things using the Torque app and pinpointed the IPR....Hopefully lol. I just started driving it again today, put more miles on without dying then the last time I drove it so that is a plus.

Bri_Man57

· #21,822 · Jan 23, 2018

DieselDC said:
Picked up a super 60 axle off 2006 F250. Looked and looked and looked for months cl and etc. rode the 7.3 beast to pick it up!

Now all I need are new rotors from an f450 and a modified pitman arm ( at least that’s what I read).

I’m making this sob turd turn real sharp

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You just swapping the axle in or are you doing the whole front suspension?

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Bri_Man57

· #21,830 · Jan 23, 2018

DieselDC said:
Lol well give me some heads up and tips if you know any. Thx

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Sorry I didn't see a post about it.

Are you trying to convert to 4wd? The only research I have done was for swapping out 4wd stuff (basically to ditch the leaf springs up front). In that case you need the control arms, brackets, track bar and bracket, and some modification to the pitman arm or the newer pitman arm or the steering box, and it mostly bolts up since the frames are near the same. Like one bolt hole in every bracket will line up, then you drill the rest.

For 2wd, if your just ditching the I beams and trying to swap that axle in, I don't know if the radius arms from the I beams will work on the new axle. If they do, Then you would definitely need a track bar, but aside from those couple things it might work.

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Bri_Man57

· #21,849 · Jan 25, 2018

DieselDC said:
No worries. I posted here 02 front suspension ?
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...g/forum/showthread.php?t=1307026&share_type=t

But know me, it was probably in the wrong subforum.

Yes I’m trying to convert to 4x4 with the super 60 for a better turning radius. I just hate my awful parking capabilities - if I don’t reverse into a parking spot - chit I need a spotter (j really should install my reverse camera).

I’m now sourcing a 4x4 Dana 60 front to swap over the parts - that’s the easiest route I think?

On the truck currently with the I beams. The blue is what I have. See attached photo.

The axle I purchased came with radius arms.

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Interesting. Like I said before I have only researched for the 4x4, hell give it a chance. It might work, I just figured I would of saw someone mention, somewhere, that some 2wd components could be used.

testorossa1989 said:
Valve cover gaskets, covers and modified headlights to accept some big **** LEDs. The manufacturer design was trash and utilized suction. View attachment 674162

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..

That is a pretty cool LED! Let us know how it works!

Bri_Man57

· #21,851 · Jan 25, 2018

testorossa1989 said:
I haven't had a chance to test on the road yet but here's a comparison.
View attachment 674170

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Brutal! LOL. Looks pretty sweet.:surprise::surprise:

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Bri_Man57

· #21,855 · Jan 25, 2018

welove2drive said:
Had this happen a while back. Changed out the IPR. I think that was all it would take but with over 250000 on the clock I went ahead and replaced the pump as well. Good luck with the repair.

cletusjermal said:
I didn’t drain the HPOP. It didn’t really drain out that much either.

DieselDC said:
No, only a little drained out - wasn’t bad. However, if it did drain out, just fill her up with oil prior and you’ll be set.

Order that socket on amazon while you’re at it. I have a deep socket set for these trucks and it covers all the larger nuts that I have come across.

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Just wanted to say thanks for the help guys, changed the IPR and ICP sensor with motocraft parts, put about 100 miles on it with plenty of opportunity's to be up to full temp and haven't had any issues. I think this is good enough to call it done because it died within 10 minutes of driving it when I got it to repeat the issue with Torque hooked up.

Didnt drain the HPOP, just like you guys not much came out. Ended up using the 29mm O Reily's axle socket for the tune of $15. Its funny, they rent axle sockets but only 30mm and up LOL.

Only downside was working deep in there, didnt take anything off except harness plugs. There are some stainless braided lines off the HPOP (are those stock?) that were starting to fray slightly, scratched my hand up pretty good, looks like I have a very upset cat LOL.

Thanks again!

Reactions: 1

Bri_Man57

· #21,858 · Jan 25, 2018

DieselDC said:
You are most welcome. I’m happy to see you have your ride on the road!

Those hoses are stock. I highly recommend these
https://tinyurl.com/ycmlqfsb - they’ve worked well for me and are cheap.

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Man, I am really digging those! They look nice and will save my hand ha ha! Its cool it comes with the crossover hose as well. Shouldnt be too involved to change I would imagine?

Bri_Man57

· #21,880 · Jan 29, 2018

DieselDC said:
Nope not at all. They will make the engine more responsive and you’ll love em

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They look nice, and honestly like that they are not stainless braided LOL.

welove2drive said:
(There are some stainless braided lines off the HPOP (are those stock?) that were starting to fray slightly, scratched my hand up pretty good, looks like I have a very upset cat LOL.)

Got all my new lines from Corey. You can buy as a set or just the HPO lines.
www.cncfab.us

SparkyF250 said:
That's one of Corey's specialties. You should check them out. https://www.cncfab.us/shop/cnc-fab-sd-hpopw-hpx/

They do look nice although the stainless braided ones on my truck have frayed just slightly in a few spots and makes me a little weary of getting stainless braided replacements given the beating they gave my hand ha ha. I bet they would be just fine though. Good excuse to order a Hydra with them >

AU7POINT3 said:
Got my body color grill back in to complete the front...

That with the new headlights is looking good!

SC-Surfer said:
Put about 1500 miles on the the truck this weekend on a run to Phoenix and back. First time doing any real miles since we got it. Was pretty happy with it. Feels like I need to do the steering box. It wants to wander a little. Alignment is spot on, had it checked the day before we left. Could be partially the crappy mud tires it came with, but seems more like steering box.

Went over Tehachapi on the way down, and the Grapevine coming home with only me and the wife in it. Ran it at 70mph/1900rpm and only saw 1500ish max on the egt going down. Hit solid 1600 max on the grapevine with a brutal headwind. Was pleased to see it downshift right about where I would have kicked it down to keep temps down. On the downshifts temps backed off immediately to 1000-1100. Was getting boost up to 15-17 on the bug pulls. For a (mostly) stocker with 240k on it and 35" mudders I was pretty stoked.

You sure those EGT's are accurate? I always thought 1250 was the max you wanted to see, and that you could slightly run past that into 1300 ish for a short time? Pretty sure that is what I read here?

Bri_Man57

· #21,884 · Jan 29, 2018

forthehalibut said:
Did some MAJOR repair work yesterday--replaced the O-ring on the oil fill tube.

forthehalibut said:
Did another *major* project to my truck yesterday. Got to wiggle the electrical connector at the transmission to get the crud or whatever was in there out and now got my reverse lights working again.:grin:

This guy LOL. That's cool that the only problems you are having are so minor!

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