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Just finished putting in an S&S Diesel cp4 disaster prevention kit. Install went well but it took me a while since I haven't wrenched on this scale in a long time. Took me about 4 hours, but I was going slow and triple checking.

Took it on a 10 mile drive after and had no issues. Nice to have peace of mind on the cp4 deciding to eat itself! Also really nice to be able to see the fuel under the hood to assess its condition.
777229


777228
 

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Just finished putting in an S&S Diesel cp4 disaster prevention kit. Install went well but it took me a while since I haven't wrenched on this scale in a long time. Took me about 4 hours, but I was going slow and triple checking.

Took it on a 10 mile drive after and had no issues. Nice to have peace of mind on the cp4 deciding to eat itself! Also really nice to be able to see the fuel under the hood to assess its condition. View attachment 777229

View attachment 777228
I really need to stop procrastinating and order that kit. I like that clear fuel bowl


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I really need to stop procrastinating and order that kit. I like that clear fuel bowl
May be my first year as a diesel owner, but I gotta say I like the thought of being able to see if the fuel is gelling in the winter.

Biggest PITA of the install was removing the upper plastic intake. Damn thing is just about impossible to get out and half the bolts are under the firewall at the back of the engine bay. Bring a 1/4" ratchet, multiple extensions, and a wobble adapter. 2nd biggest was the T25 torx bits holding the sensor on top of the pump (a long-shaft t-handle driver would do you well here, like this https://www.amazon.com/Journeyman-T-Handle-Klein-Tools-JTH6T25/dp/B005G3B4HE/. The replacement hardware from S&S is 4mm allen). Oh, also have an extra 8mm socket for when you loose your only one you own down the front of the engine somewhere during reassembly.

If Id been prepared for those few things, it would have been an 2h job. Thats about all I got for advice.
 
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Well....that wasn't it. Ended up with major death wobble on the interstate hwy (with the kids with me :eek: ) about 6-8 times. Left turns and metal bridge transition joints really set it off. So thought it was defective stabilizer, but no. Had daughter do the wheel back and forth and saw that the drag link ball joint at the pitman arm had slop in it. Replaced that, and it took about half the death wobble out. Going to do the track bar next.

...
Small update; just so happened that I needed new tires = nearly to the wear bars and 6 yrs old (Michelin Defenders). Had some slippage in wet conditions recently. So I had Michelin Agilis Crossclimate LT275/65R20 installed. I would have never believed it, but they took out nearly all the rest of the death wobble. Maybe 10% DW left, and I will also do the track bar since it arrived today. I was dubious that old tires would cause death wobble... proved me wrong today. :unsure:
 

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Did a coolant flush on primary and secondary radiator and changed oil. As soon as the hot side pipe gets here, doing that and the CCV reroute all at once.
 

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Small update; just so happened that I needed new tires = nearly to the wear bars and 6 yrs old (Michelin Defenders). Had some slippage in wet conditions recently. So I had Michelin Agilis Crossclimate LT275/65R20 installed. I would have never believed it, but they took out nearly all the rest of the death wobble. Maybe 10% DW left, and I will also do the track bar since it arrived today. I was dubious that old tires would cause death wobble... proved me wrong today. :unsure:
Replaced the trackbar and TB ball joint yesterday....

That was more of a job than I expected. Mostly because of the ball joint. 1) I tried the air hammer trick - no dice. I have an IR 119MAXK and it wouldn't budge it at all. 2) My ball joint 'master kit' isn't big enough (c-clamp needs to be taller), so it took a lot of finagling to make it work. It would have been reasonably quick with a bigger press.

The trackbar seemed fine, but the ball joint I could easily move with two fingers.

Anybody know of a more powerful air hammer that doesn't cost $800?

I haven't had the chance to drive in a known DW zone yet and will update when I do.
 

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I got an OTC ball joint c-clamp that has a 9-1/2” throat depth, if I remember correctly. Just under $100. Works for my F450 ball joints.


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I got an OTC ball joint c-clamp that has a 9-1/2” throat depth, if I remember correctly. Just under $100. Works for my F450 ball joints.


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Mine is Astro 7897 and is only 6” :(
 

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Rearranged the garage and built 3-level shelves to allow the truck to park in the garage for winter. It's a PITA with its size, so doesn't make sense to have it in there full-time.
777421

Granted I'd like it if I could garage it full time, it just doesn't make sense. At least now I don't have to wince when the weatherman mentions hail and won't have to deal with de-icing it.
 

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Having garage space is so nice in the winter for these things. I have a large shed/garage that we park everything in when the weather is bad. Only bad part is it is detached from the house and the wife hates that. I've parked my 2016 CCSB F250, My wife's 2021 Explore, my winter beater a 2005 Sebring, and one of those first gen gators that are more like a golf cart all in there one winter storm and still had lots of room for working on stuff.
 
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My 2012 6.7 got a pair of brand new 850 cca batteries today, the original Motorcraft 750's lasted 9 years, actually they were still working OK, but I felt it was time, I did not want to tempt fait by relying on them through another winter 21/22.
 

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My 2012 6.7 got a pair of brand new 850 cca batteries today, the original Motorcraft 750's lasted 9 years, actually they were still working OK, but I felt it was time, I did not want to temp fait by relying on them through another winter 21/22.
I've had Motorcraft batteries good that are over 10 years old. You sure don't see very many Delco batteries lasting that long!!!
 

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Early in life, I learned to hate Interstate batteries, and yet it is what I have in both of my Powerstrokes. Costco gives me new batteries every two year, no charge. Aside from the effort, it is a good deal.


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Changed the oil, and oil filter. Found my injector/fuel additive on sale. Bought some more truck wash soap. Washed the battleship....what a day.
 

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Replaced the trackbar and TB ball joint yesterday....

That was more of a job than I expected. Mostly because of the ball joint. 1) I tried the air hammer trick - no dice. I have an IR 119MAXK and it wouldn't budge it at all. 2) My ball joint 'master kit' isn't big enough (c-clamp needs to be taller), so it took a lot of finagling to make it work. It would have been reasonably quick with a bigger press.

The trackbar seemed fine, but the ball joint I could easily move with two fingers.

Anybody know of a more powerful air hammer that doesn't cost $800?

I haven't had the chance to drive in a known DW zone yet and will update when I do.
OK, tested today and the TB ball joint fixed the remainder of the DW.

Cab still feels a little loose though. I am getting some squeaking and popping from cab mounts. Found deterioration while spending so much time under there. LOL. So I ordered the S&B silicone mounts.
 

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Installed the S&B Silicone cab mounts. (SAB81-1003)
The old mounts were varied in condition. Front end and footwell were not that bad. Rubber mid mounts were starting to crack on the passenger side. The rear were in bad shape. Just powdered to dust when touched. So: definitely use heat to loosen the Loctite and run things out by hand. I didn't break loose any cage nuts that way.

The real extra tip is to have a good Sawzall and several metal blades. I had to cut three of the mounts off because they wouldn't separate. Just run the blade on top of the frame tab and cut through the metal and they will drop loose. It took me about 4 hours. No lift, just a floor jack and 4x4 wood chunk.

The cab was about 1/4" low before swapping them out, and now is fairly flush along the body lines.

I would say the ride is 'different'. Not better, not worse, just different. More refined on minor pavement bumps. But maybe a little 'squishy' on the big potholes, is the best way I can describe it. Of course the squeak/ clunk in the back is now gone where the rear ones were powder.

At $744 with tax, I think the price is too high; but the OEM are junk and Dorman stuff doesn't touch my truck LOL.

777572

777573


777574

777575
 

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Installed the S&B Silicone cab mounts. (SAB81-1003)
The old mounts were varied in condition. Front end and footwell were not that bad. Rubber mid mounts were starting to crack on the passenger side. The rear were in bad shape. Just powdered to dust when touched. So: definitely use heat to loosen the Loctite and run things out by hand. I didn't break loose any cage nuts that way.

The real extra tip is to have a good Sawzall and several metal blades. I had to cut three of the mounts off because they wouldn't separate. Just run the blade on top of the frame tab and cut through the metal and they will drop loose. It took me about 4 hours. No lift, just a floor jack and 4x4 wood chunk.

The cab was about 1/4" low before swapping them out, and now is fairly flush along the body lines.

I would say the ride is 'different'. Not better, not worse, just different. More refined on minor pavement bumps. But maybe a little 'squishy' on the big potholes, is the best way I can describe it. Of course the squeak/ clunk in the back is now gone where the rear ones were powder.

At $744 with tax, I think the price is too high; but the OEM are junk and Dorman stuff doesn't touch my truck LOL.

View attachment 777572
View attachment 777573

View attachment 777574
View attachment 777575
How big of a job is it to replace the cab mounts?


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