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I found the rear end roar. Rear pinion bearing race was toast. Replaced both pinion bearings and races, but decided to leave the old carrier bearings in for now. Not a fun job, but not all that tough. That 10.5 carrier is a heavy SOB though.
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Happens quite a bit if the crush sleeve gets well...more "crushed" during usage and then the preload on the pinion bearing loosens up. It's the 1st main weakpoint of the 10.5. If/when you go back in for the carrier bearings, and want to get rid of the potential for that problem ever again, a solid crush-sleeve-eliminator shim from a 9" can be used with just a little modification. Food for thought!
 

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Happens quite a bit if the crush sleeve gets well...more "crushed" during usage and then the preload on the pinion bearing loosens up. It's the 1st main weakpoint of the 10.5. If/when you go back in for the carrier bearings, and want to get rid of the potential for that problem ever again, a solid crush-sleeve-eliminator shim from a 9" can be used with just a little modification. Food for thought!
Good to know, but with the previous setup lasting 260k, I hope I don't have to deal with it any further.
 

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Dropped my truck off yesterday to have the heads o-ringed and have exhaust manifold gaskets installed while the cab is in the air. My coolant system was getting pressurized as I drove around, so I knew the head gasket was shot. I absolutely hate not being the one who is working on my truck, but I have been traveling for work the last 9 months, so don't really have an option. Not looking forward to paying that bill. :LOL: :cry:
 

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Replaced external injector o-rings, polished the spool valves, replaced oil rail nipple cup o-rings, glow plugs and harnesses. Seems to run smoother, and the injectors are significantly quieter.
 

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Yea so I had to get the transmission rebuilt because water got in it from Hurricane Harvey and yes it took about two years but it finally caught up to me, then my oil cooler took a dump started seeing oil is the res tank so apparently a couple fins cracked it it so yea....last month put 2 new Nitto 325s on it that hit me for about $900 so I’m up to about 5K in two months love hate relationship


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Yea so I had to get the transmission rebuilt because water got in it from Hurricane Harvey and yes it took about two years but it finally caught up to me, then my oil cooler took a dump started seeing oil is the res tank so apparently a couple fins cracked it it so yea....last month put 2 new Nitto 325s on it that hit me for about $900 so I’m up to about 5K in two months love hate relationship


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I changed the oil with the BPD air cooled cooler. Added my last two bottles of REV X and used a Shell T6 15W40 / 5W40 combo.

I think it runs quieter, but my wife thinks its “just as noisy.”
 

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I re-programmed my speedo with the HyperTech calibrator. When I set it at the 34.75" that Nitto says my tires measure it ended up being 5mph fast compared to the GPS (it was 5mph slow) re-flashed to 34" and now it's 1mph fast. Going to try it at 33.75" and see if it's any closer, if I have to live with 1mph I think I can do it with minimal eye twitching
 

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FWIW, When I set mine with Forscan, the math didn't work perfectly either. I had to play with the numbers a little to get it right.
 

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FWIW, When I set mine with Forscan, the math didn't work perfectly either. I had to play with the numbers a little to get it right.
Truth be told, I could care less weather the PCM thinks it has 54" or 25" tires as long as when I glance down it tells me how bad I'm breaking the law accurately
 

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Truth be told, I could care less weather the PCM thinks it has 54" or 25" tires as long as when I glance down it tells me how bad I'm breaking the law accurately
I thought the largest you could set it was to 35s without addressing the ABS?

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I thought the largest you could set it was to 35s without addressing the ABS?

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35" is the largest size in the '04 PCM, the Hypertech calibrator re-flashes the PCM to accept a larger size, up to 54"
 

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What cables did you use? Considering making mine out of welding cable. Did you change your terminals?

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I did use welding cable. Welding cable isn't oil resistant so I shrink wrapped the cable and then used PET to protect against abrasion.
I did change my terminals and added a 2 gauge wire from the alternator to the driver's side battery.
2/0 wire bat to bat and bat to starter. 1/0 wire for grounds, both batteries to Frame and block.
 

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Got my FICM back from BPD (boy that was fast!) - They received it Thursday, fixed it Friday, shipped it Friday, got here today Sunday!!! Just installed it and took it for a spin - NICE!!!! Is it just me or does my ride feel happier healthier more satisfied???? Guys at BPD - You really came through for me!!! Thanks!!!
 

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Spring broke so I swapped rear leafs. Well, this was a beach

Stupid shackle bolt rusted to the metal insert which spun in the rubber had to cut out both sides.

So everything is snugged I couldn’t find the TQ spec for this model year so I wanted to ask you guys first.

Anyways. Went to a local shop who builds n does springs / suspensions for LT n HD trucks n got 3600 lb springs. (Sans overload spring ). Put in F350 blocks n all new hardware. I was not prepared for all the rust n heartache from
It lol.

Today I’m swapping the brakes and my track bar + ball joint.











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