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I know this is a popular upgrade for the tranny on a 6.0, but I don't know why.

Can you educate me?
If your asking about the 6.4 tranny pan, it has a better internal filter than the 6.0 and is slightly deeper so it will hold more fluid. I think that’s the main difference, but I could be wrong, it’s been known to happen. I upgraded mine because I was changing the fluid anyway it didn’t cost that much to change it out. But, cost is relative.
 

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2005 F250 FX4 Lariat CCSB - ARP studs, EGR deleted, IPR coolant filter, PHP FICM tunes.
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If your asking about the 6.4 tranny pan, it has a better internal filter than the 6.0 and is slightly deeper so it will hold more fluid. I think that’s the main difference, but I could be wrong, it’s been known to happen. I upgraded mine because I was changing the fluid anyway it didn’t cost that much to change it out. But, cost is relative.
So, you install the 6.4 pan and the 6.4 filter?
 

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So, you install the 6.4 pan and the 6.4 filter?
Yes. It’s a direct swap. If your old gasket is in good shape you can reuse it as well. They are reusable. I also replaced the one plastic plug inside the 2006 transmission with a billet one that if I remember correctly I picked up from blessedperformance. I could be mistaken on that part but I’m pretty sure that’s where I picked it up. Not sure if that was necessary but I figured I was in there and plastic gets old so why not.
 

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I know this is a popular upgrade for the tranny on a 6.0, but I don't know why.

Can you educate me?
The added fluid is not really anything. The original 6.0 system does coarse filtering at the pan and the finer filtering with a bypass setup using the little filter up in front. That works well for most of us through the transmission's life. But since the fine grade filtering is a bypass and partial, taking many routine fluid rotations in the trans to filter everything, there is the potential for debris to jam one of the control solenoids. That has happened occasionally.

The 6.4 design puts a finer grade filter in the pan, so all the fluid is filtered in one pumped fluid rotation, so there is less chance of one of the solenoids getting jammed. You can leave the original bypass filter in, it costs little to change it, and one could extend those changes, or you can buy a bypass setup from CNCFab to eliminate it. You can't just eliminate it or run without the filter.

At this point, it's not a bad idea to do a complete flush of the fluid if you are changing from the original SP. However, there is debate if going to a finer filter allows using SP longer or if the newer fluid for the 6.4L trans is what allows that version to have longer change intervals.

We all do things that may help or may help boost our belief we are doing something better. The 6.0L aftermarket is an extensive catalog of 'Mo Better' things that may not be the benefit we embellish. But, for me, it was an upgrade that I thought had the potential to help.

Yeah, there is a video from me......

 

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Jack Please educate me on the "little filter Up front" I remember reading the post about the block from CncFab. So does anyone have a part number for the filter up front. I don't want to change fluid, filters and install the new pan and leave a dirty filter in the system. You use the words By-pass filter are you referring to the filter up front by the bumper or the commonly referred to as the TP filter directly by the Transmission.
 

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Correct, the toilet paper filter is the bypass filter. Bypass filter methods have been in use for years, my 1952 A-C dozer’s GMC two stroke diesel uses only a bypass oil filter. Many of us used to put them on the 7.3L Powerstroke.

I’m on my cell, but the part number is easily googled if I don’t have it in the description of the video with the other numbers. I typically buy the NTZ version, the OE manufacturer from DIESELFILTERSONLINE as it the cheapest and comes with the o-ring.
 

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Correct, the toilet paper filter is the bypass filter. Bypass filter methods have been in use for years, my 1952 A-C dozer’s GMC two stroke diesel uses only a bypass oil filter. Many of us used to put them on the 7.3L Powerstroke.

I’m on my cell, but the part number is easily googled if I don’t have it in the description of the video with the other numbers. I typically buy the NTZ version, the OE manufacturer from DIESELFILTERSONLINE as it the cheapest and comes with the o-ring.
Thanks Jack
For some reason I thought that the TP/(now I know is the bypass filter< that is in the front of truck) was back just in front of tranny, my mistake. However not knocking [email protected] new product of the block, but I don't understand how removing a paper filter is more beneficial to the overall filtering process, correct me if I am wrong but replacing the stock 6.0pan and Screen type filter with the 6.4 pan and updated filter..... DOES NOT CHANGE THE FLOW OF FLUID FROM THE TRANNY TO THE BYPASS(TP) Filter to the Radiator and back to the Transmission? The FOMOCO part #is FT145 (3C3Z-7B155-BA)
The Folks at White Bear Lake Ford are awesome.Even though i did an online order with part #s supplied by my good Friend Jokester , Customer service was great and prompt when i called to edit order. Pricing was outstanding!! Thanks All....Popi
 

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In between all this, some variations had a filter between the trans and oil pan, so you are not mistaken. Back home from the farm, FT145 is the Motorcraft, the NTZ assembly NTZ09-C09B I buy for $12.99. I dislike doing things on the cell.

The concept of eliminating the TP filter considers the 6.4L filter taking its place, so there is redundancy. The replacement block is a suitable choice if one doesn't want it up there and deal with it (problematic for breaking its hex when not using an impact). The cost of an occasional $12.99 filter that I don't have an issue removing, and it's primarily unseen, doesn't make the elimination vital to me. I have redundant filtering, something I don't see as a problem.

I've bought many parts for my Ford vehicles from ANWB, but sometimes their parts shipping is high, so I may go to Tasca or Lakeland Ford, although I prefer ANWB. Occasionally FordPartsGiant (not an actual Ford dealer, but a better shopping catalog) when their price is lower. They seem not to update their pricing as quickly as the Ford dealers. And RockAuto gets its share of Motorcraft purchases from me, too, although, over the last two years, I don't think they are getting the Ford wholesale deals they used to get. But with prices increasing and availability waning, both that and the shipping costs have become part of the equation for me. DieselFiltersOnline is local (like XDP), but I usually bulk price items and vehicles to reduce shipping costs.
 

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Green Bean Is getting a new Belt Tensioner, New Belt,New Grooved and Smooth Idler Pulleys. also New Transmission Wiring Harness of course new gaskets for the Valve body and harness O-Ring for the plug where it goes thru trans case. I cannot find any of the parts stores locally that has the Fan/Clutch Removal Tool ( 30 mile circle) Auto Zone, Advance auto For the rental tools. Local Napa does not sell one. I know from the videos that Burping it with a blunt air chisel is one way of breaking the Fan Nut Loose.
 

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Auto Zone says their supplier has no idea when it will be back in stock, Advance auto has rented out and people have 45 days to return it ,oh well my son found one just for the 6.0 not the multiple size set so i will have it and anyone in my area will have one to use ( upon the threat of torture for not returning the tool:mad::) )
I found one at advance auto
 

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Air hammer burping, either against a short wrench made for this, or the blunt chisel method on the nut, works fine. Unfortunately, I had to go that route the first time. I now install the fan with some anti-seize on the threads and lightly tighten it onto the water pump shaft. While some fear that it could let the fan come off, it still tightens to a high level in use. And a good amount of torque to get it back off. Just not air hammer impact force.
 
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Air hammer burping, either against a short wrench made for this, or the blunt chisel method on the nut, works fine. Unfortunately, I had to go that route the first time. I now install the fan with some anti-seize on the threads and lightly tighten it onto the water pump shaft. While some fear that it could let the fan come off, it still tightens to a high level in use. And a good amount of torque to get it back off. Just not air hammer impact force.
Jack I know that probably thousands of folks have used the blunt chisel method and never have any issues ,but to me the force that's transmitted to the water pump bearing from the "Burping Action" would cause premature failure when I would be out somewhere in that Proverbial place. I have ordered the 6.0 Tool for the Fan /Clutch removal. The low mileage of my truck is great, however things are starting to show its 18year age. Thank again for the link to Rock Auto Jack ,I have purchased from them numerus times in the past and the pricing was good, and White Bear Lake has actually shipped the Trans harness the next day instead of the initial two delivery date.
 

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I hear you, but it depends on the angle at where you are catching the edge of the nut. The force on the water pump is low.
 

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Let me add .... when I tried using a wrench, the tool I was using to hold the pulley started to distort the pulley due to the torque, so my feeling was I was screwing around with the bearings more doing that than a second or two of tangential impact blows.

But, to each his own. I understand your concern.
 
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Currently searching for the best place to purchase an SCT tuner/monitor for my 05 6.0. looks like livewire is the one I am interested in. Ready to pull the trigger but not sure where to buy from. Any suggestions?
 
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