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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Think quit while driving down the the highway and it shuts off at 80mph no pb no ps trying to get off the road safe was fun to say the least. At least the trailer wasn't behind it at this time or that would probably be an insurance claim.

Gone through 3 oil coolers more injectors than my CC can handle the lp fuel pump cracked fuel filter housing and some other misc things.

Anyway back to the situation at hand.

FICM checks out with 47.9 vdc KOEO and the same for cranking.
Buzz test just gives the first clicks on the initial start of the test and then each injector just gives a click from 1-8.

Before all this happened it when starting instead of hanging steady at 500 rpm it would surge to around 2000 rpm.

Haven't recorded anything with the AE at this time yet so I thought I would ask on here to see what yall are thinking.

Anyone know if AE can see the CKP PWM or is it just able to see the sync of the CMP CKP? I did see that when I had AE on it earlier that was NO which leads me to think I have a bad CKP sensor?

Another thing is the KOEO test fails as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Put a new CMP and CKP in now we get a yes for sync of CMP and CKP but we still have no start.

If anyone has any ideas where to start looking for a solution I would appreciate it..

I see we only have 273 psi for ICP which is low so no I'm thinking a leak in the HP oil system somewhere.

Wondering if anyone has any doc's on troubleshooting the HPOP for leaks?
 

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273 PSI I think, if I remember correctly, is the magic number for IPR failure.
 

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i blew out my ipr valve a few months back... parked it and then it woudlnt start back up again... i belive the magic number is at least 500 psi to start. so it could be that, but ive read that with the ipr valve, itll have a rough start then the next time it wont start. (which is what it did to me). so id go with either the ipr valve or a oring blew out... but id play with the valve first just because it could be eaiser, imo...

where can i purchase an icp sensor for an 2003 f250 6.0l v8
dealer?
 

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hey im having the same problem also have auto ae and the truck is an 03 i changed hpop 3 times,thinking they were giving me bad pumps.not so sure now.I put presure into the top of the pump under the cover but it held pressure.so everyone ive talked to agreed bad pump but now after 3 new pumps must be a leak.the way to check these for a hpop leak is to remove icp and put shop air in there which requires another special tool.I made mine.I was buying a new icp anyway so i cut it at the seam and welded an air fitting to it and then you connect air to it and listen at both sides then Apply 12v to a jumper you make next going to the ipr command it and air sound should change.By putting air into the top of the hpop I bypassed the ipr and then can inspect branch tube and stc fitting i think that is the correct name for it to the left of the pump.this is where im stuck cant find a leak.Recomended by m-chan68 to remove both valve covers,he has been a great sounding board for me and more thanks to him.he also tells me that I needed to check branch tubes for being tight well thats it hope it helps ive got over 60hrs and im still no closer to being on the road RRRRRRRRR.now oh yea ive got 350lbs saying auto ae and mine also did the no reading of crank and cam sensor but showded sync most of the time but no codes so mabey it wont with no run .And my koeo also failed lets stay in touch thanks.
 

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I had the same issue last weekend..I was pulling my trailer and it just died! NOT FUN! Anyway..I had a bad Injector Pressure Value.. Had it replaced for a ton of money, but it's running fine for now.
 

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I had a similar issue with my 03 on my way to work one morning. Luckly I was about a mile from work so I got a buddy to tow me to the parking lot. I hooked up AE and had low icp pressure. Ended up having to replace the HPOP. From my experience most no starts on 03's are wire chafing or HPOP problems. Hooking up air to ICP port and energizing the IPR valve is only way I know how to check for leaks. Jungleboy, looking at your AE screen print. Your battery voltage looks very low. It should be in the mid to upper 12 volt range. Plus your RPM is low which is usually what happens with low battery voltage. These trucks won't start on low battery voltage. Try charging your batteries and try starting again and see what values you get.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got around to replacing the IPR today and still no start.. Charged up the batteries and still getting around 200psi reading from the ICP sensor.
 

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did you apply 12v to thr ipr while cranking and see what the presure reads dont leave the 12v to the ipr for more than a min or so as it may burn up after that i believe its been said 2 min or so but to be safe ya know ill be watching and i got mine going 3 pumps laterand it took several injectors also
 

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Sinister Diesel Sucks!!!
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should have replaced your hpop while you were there. I had just done my hpop, icp and ipr, and 1400 mi later @ 70 on i95 the thing shuts down with a bad hpop and ipr.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I managed to change the IPR by just making the socket and taking the coolant reservoir off and moving the FICM didn't take the top off.
 

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I didn't think I would have to play Ford to get it working "PARTS TILL IT STARTS" but it's looking like it's turning out that way ha.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Time to check for a HPO leak I guess..

Had an old ICP sitting around so I ground off the electrical side and welded in a male quick connect air line fitting.

iPhone picture but you get the gist of it in the photo.
 

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Sinister Diesel Sucks!!!
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Whos socket did you use for that? What make? was thinkin bout makin my own because of the damn 03 intake BS. You should do a write up on it
 

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(HOME MADE IPR TOOL FOR AN EARLY 03/04 FORD)

[Ok here it is(HOME MADE IPR TOOL FOR AN EARLY 03/04 FORD) BUY a 36 mm deep socket I used a axle nut socket.With a cut off wheel cut about a 3/4 inch wide slice out of the socket up to about a 1/4 inch from where it starts to taper inside.When you have that cut out use a die grinder to enlarge the inside top where the socket domes.If you have your new one first it works best,because you can dry fit it as you go. As you will see it does not really matter where you cut the slot in the socket ,because the connector on the IPR will move grind more and yes some more,until it fits smoothly.Almost done, cut the length down.I cut mine down so that about 1/8 of an inch or less is left where your rachet goes into the socket you know at the top of the socket.This will shorten the socket giving you more room to fit it in between the intake and IPR. The more you cut it down the more room you will make its a tight space and gets smaller as you remove the IPR. Lastly if you want to be creative smooth it all up and paint it. And why not you have 2 hrs or so into it, I believe Snap-On charges 200.00 or so.Well a socket, die grinder,cut off tool and all. I have about 60.00 well spent dollars,and now I own a cutoff tool,die grinder,stones and best of all a nice tool that makes me proud every time I will use or loan it .hell you know what I mean its now a quality made in the USA tool lol Be patient and dont forget those safety glasses. Getting steel drilled out of your eye stinks. Hope this goes as well for you as it did me. Jeffrey Ronco :grd:
 

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Sinister Diesel Sucks!!!
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Jeff, thats awesome man, thanks. I in no wasexpect this to be my last hpop or ipr, so i gotta make things easier for the driveway troubleshooting
 
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