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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well it finally happened. While going out to Utah to see a friends I lost a head gasket. Its about a 8 hour drive from my house to his and about 5-6 hours into it I stopped to fuel up and notice large bubbles coming up to the degas bottle. I taped a rubber glove to the degas bottle and it blew up like a balloon. I still got the block tester and stuck it in there and it did change colors indicating I have combustion in the coolant. no white smoke out the tail pipe and I've had evidence of coolant being pushed from the degas bottle for a little bit now. The trucks got 245,000 on it and everything is original except the egr cooler and the hpop. which leads me to my question. I got a $4000 budget and a lot of original parts. I got the heads off and in the process of making their way to a machine shop. There are a few solution kits out there Strictly Diesel has the most complete kit with some other goodies. But if you have made this repair before and could do something differently what would it be? I'm also doing the repair with the cab on.

The list so far:
ARP head studs w/factory gaskets
BPD water pump
EGR Delete(I might hold on to the delete for later)
Driven Diesel regulated return
SCT Tuner
Sending out the oil cooler and EGR cooler for cleaning
All the gaskets to slap it together :eek:hnoes:

Thanks ahead of time for the input and wish me luck
 

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-Unless you plan on upgrading to larger injectors, I'd skip the Regulated return.

-I'd do the EGR delete and not skip it. It's way too easy to do it with the truck apart and it doesn't make sense to skip.

-Get a brand new Ford Oil cooler as opposed to sending them both off for cleaning.

-With the extra cash you'll have left over, make sure to put new o-rings on all injectors. (use the alliant kit, not the Ford kit)

-It's not very common on the late '04 trucks, but make sure to replace the dummy plugs and standpipes with the updated parts.

-Look into the blue fuel spring kit to keep your injectors happy.

-Have the turbo inspected and/or cleaned.

-Have the intake manifold degreased and cleaned, especially IAT2 next to the Turbo feed tube and Oil pressure sensor.

-Insist on a RED ELC coolant like Shell Rotella, CAT, Final Charge, or Chevron Delo
 

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+1 on the new oil cooler vs. cleaning it.

+1 on running some kind of Cat EC-1 rated coolant. (I use Rotella Ultra ELC)

A coolant filter. I have one of the generic bypass styles from sinsiter that uses a Wix 2040 spin on filter, but if I were rebuilding the top end like you I'd switch over to an IPR style one.

Fumoto valves to make coolant changes easier.
 

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+1 on the coolant filter.

I would either get the IPR or the IPR. I have one. It is washable. I cannot believe the crap that mine is still catching. Been on for 6 months or so of driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
-Unless you plan on upgrading to larger injectors, I'd skip the Regulated return.

-I'd do the EGR delete and not skip it. It's way too easy to do it with the truck apart and it doesn't make sense to skip.

-Get a brand new Ford Oil cooler as opposed to sending them both off for cleaning.

-With the extra cash you'll have left over, make sure to put new o-rings on all injectors. (use the alliant kit, not the Ford kit)

-It's not very common on the late '04 trucks, but make sure to replace the dummy plugs and standpipes with the updated parts.

-Look into the blue fuel spring kit to keep your injectors happy.

-Have the turbo inspected and/or cleaned.

-Have the intake manifold degreased and cleaned, especially IAT2 next to the Turbo feed tube and Oil pressure sensor.

-Insist on a RED ELC coolant like Shell Rotella, CAT, Final Charge, or Chevron Delo

Thanks for the input everyone.
I do plan on going with larger injectors later so the regulated return is a must.
I do have a coolant filter on the truck and after about running it for 6 months I cut it open and found nothing in the thing and the trucks had green coolant in it since about 80k and its now at 245k so I'm just gonna stick with the green stuff and I can get it for cheap/free.
I do have new/updated pipes and dummy plugs for when it goes back together

The oil cooler I probably will get a new one since this one is high mileage
The cylinder walls in the block have a few polished streaks in a few of the bores. I thought about a long block from a few companies but I just got ingaged and not really in a position to drop 5k on a longblock so thats not an option.

This is my first time doing this in a ford chassis and one question I got is about the firewall on the driver side. are people just pounding the firewall in to gain clearance for the head stud at the rear of the head or lifting the cab partially whats the trick there?:dunno:

I got the heads off and going to a machine shop in the elk grove Ca area I hope to get those back in a couple weeks and get this beast up and running again. Its driving me crazy seeing it in so many peices!:banging:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh and about the egr delete. I would love to put it on the truck but I still have to smog the dang thing...for now anyway till I can get into a different county.So I might gamble get the cooler pressure checked and cleaned and run it till I can get somewhere I dont have to smog. EPA is a joke
 

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You could just turn the EGR off via your tuner. Then return it to stock before you go smog it. Just make sure you run the stock tune for a few days before your smog test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have heard of people just turning it off but to me thats just heat soaking the cooler and the valve and increase the chance of a failure. I have no proof of that but if I'm going to have it on there it'll still work
 

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Have you thoughr about the bulletproof diesel egr that has the ends blocked off?

I had my egr turned off via tuning and had no problems until the coolant hose that feeds the egr started to pour out coolant but I dont think turning the valve off caused that...

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Have you thoughr about the bulletproof diesel egr that has the ends blocked off?

I had my egr turned off via tuning and had no problems until the coolant hose that feeds the egr started to pour out coolant but I dont think turning the valve off caused that...

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Yeah I've seen the dummy cooler but havent really thought about buying one. the only thing with that is when it comes to smog the truck. When they plug into it are they going to see that the egr valve isnt working or if I turn it back on will it throw a code for not seeing a pressure drop in the exhaust when the valve opens? Alot of variables I'm not sure about.
 

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I have heard of people just turning it off but to me thats just heat soaking the cooler and the valve and increase the chance of a failure. I have no proof of that but if I'm going to have it on there it'll still work
I run mine this way so I can get my truck smogged with minimal effort, I haven't had any issues thus far. The EGR cooler is going to have hot exhaust gasses in it regardless of wether the valve is opening or not, the only way to keep it out is to block it at the up pipe or delete the system. Turning the valve off just keeps the recirculated exhaust out of the intake.

I always thought the primary reason EGR coolers failed was low coolant flow out of the oil cooler causing the coolant to boil - in turn over pressurizing the cooler and popping the crappy factory welds. As long as the oil cooler temperature delta is within spec it's not clogged, and the EGR cooler gets enough coolant to keep from failing.

Wasn't the hose from oil cooler to EGR cooler one of the update parts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I run mine this way so I can get my truck smogged with minimal effort, I haven't had any issues thus far. The EGR cooler is going to have hot exhaust gasses in it regardless of wether the valve is opening or not, the only way to keep it out is to block it at the up pipe or delete the system. Turning the valve off just keeps the recirculated exhaust out of the intake.

I always thought the primary reason EGR coolers failed was low coolant flow out of the oil cooler causing the coolant to boil - in turn over pressurizing the cooler and popping the crappy factory welds. As long as the oil cooler temperature delta is within spec it's not clogged, and the EGR cooler gets enough coolant to keep from failing.

Wasn't the hose from oil cooler to EGR cooler one of the update parts?
Yeah I understand that. The exhaust gas flowing through also helps heat transfer too. I'm not saying it will fail but I'm do for smog soon and I would hate to pull everything apart because I failed.
Anyone in the Reno area that can give some insight?

And I'll ask again but on the driver side bank the firewall closet to the block, do you have to pound that section in to gain clearance for the head stud?

Either way I am pretty excited to get this thing back together and running.
 

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I've seen a write up on how people have installed the heads on the driver side without pounding on the firewall.

If I remember right, they installed the last stud with the head. They stick the stud in head and use a rubberband or something to keep it on the head when they install it.

Hope this helps

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah I just followed a thread and the guy had really good pictures showing what he did. There's also a special socket That makes like easier so you don't have to take the whole hvac system out I got to find that part number and get it coming! Also people are using flat stock to clean the mating surfaces of the block and head I'm not gonna do it but has anyone run into issues using that?
 
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