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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I drove earlier today and it was fine. Drove it again, and it sounded like nails on a chalkboard. The turbo has an extremely high pitched whine in it. The normal 6.0 turbo sound is muted by the whine. I'm not sure if it is an exhaust leak right near the turbo or something wrong with the turbo. It does it on throttle not really at idle. I tried listening and going around to find any leak, but I didn't find any. I also had the egr valve code pop up 2 times within a day now, and I think another one for the egr but can't remember. I checked the valve and I think its going out I planned on doing an egr delete but other things keep popping up on the truck.

If this is confusing Im sorry Im a little pissed off and Im kinda scatterbrained at the moment because I cant seem to catch a break with the truck. LOL
 

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If this is confusing Im sorry Im a little pissed off and Im kinda scatterbrained at the moment because I cant seem to catch a break with the truck. LOL[/QUOTE]



I am no help at all, so sorry, but it sounds like the beginning of my life when I picked up my 6.0L. The struggle can be real.
 

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I would yank the EGR valve out and clean it thoroughly before replacing it. Hopefully that will do the trick.

As far as the turbo, it sounds like an exhaust leak somewhere. The noise you are describing sounds a lot like the y-pipe or bellows are cracked. I haven't had it happen personally, but it sounds similar to what you're describing.
 

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A stuck turbo can give EGR codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would yank the EGR valve out and clean it thoroughly before replacing it. Hopefully that will do the trick.

As far as the turbo, it sounds like an exhaust leak somewhere. The noise you are describing sounds a lot like the y-pipe or bellows are cracked. I haven't had it happen personally, but it sounds similar to what you're describing.
Ok Ill look into it later today. Have another question. My truck is not wanting to start the past couple days. I dont know if its glow plug related or fuel related. I have a feeling its going to be a pain to figure out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did some digging, and tried looking for a leak in the pipes didn't find anything. It might be from the new exhaust I put on but it was fine. I do have a hole in downpipe that i am going to get fixed with in a couple days. Looked more into it and some people said it could be the degas bottle, checked that out, seemed fine. I'm completely lost in where it's coming from,
 

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I think you might have multiple issues and you're chasing your tail trying to troubleshoot all of them at one time. Take them methodically and figure them out one by one - the most recent being your no oil pressure. This one is a biggie, because no oil pressure = no starty = hard to troubleshoot the rest of them! What are you using to read ICP?

1. Setup your PID's and watch for the basics:


2. If they all look good and you don't have ICP, verify you have base engine oil pressure.


3. Is your IPR% going to 85% when it cranks but won't start? If so, and you have base engine oil pressure, you need to air test the system:


Do you know if the STC fitting was updated before you bought the truck?

-jokester
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I tried a couple things today. It has ICP 1175 and says no injector width. But from the video above about base oil pressure I tried cranking to see if it would build pressure and didn't get anything. I think from the video I have base oil pressure but not enough to get it started.
 

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It would be good to post ICP volts as well as ICP pressure.

Will the oil filter housing fill up (oil filter removed and cap off) when cranking?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yes it filled up. I didnt get the voltage. I would have to go back to the truck its sitting in a parking lot at the moment.
i dont know if my monitor shows the voltage.
 

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How long did it take to fill the oil filter housing?

-jokester
 

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Yeah - that's too long. Should only take ~6-8 seconds to fill it to the top. Kinda seeming like your base engine oil theory has some validity.

When you're cranking with the remote start wire, do you have an even crank or does it flare in spots?

-jokester
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah - that's too long. Should only take ~6-8 seconds to fill it to the top. Kinda seeming like your base engine oil theory has some validity.

When you're cranking with the remote start wire, do you have an even crank or does it flare in spots?

-jokester
I'm pretty sure it sounded even for the most part. I'm going to get it towed tomorrow, I now need to find a shop that knows what their talking about. Ford was useless last time I brought it there.
 

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Where are you located in North Cacalacki? Maybe someone close can recommend a good shop that works on 6.0's!

-jokester
 

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Is it possible the weak batteries slowed the crank which caused the "time to fill" to be extended? It SHOULD fill in 3-4 seconds w/ the drain valve closed (it can be closed by pushing the valve at the bottom of the filter housing closed w/ a screwdriver and holding it that way for the test); and in 9-11 with the drain valve left open.

I am not YET convinced that it is a base oil pressure issue.

The tests we recommend are great, but sometimes we assume that all "base conditions" are normal. Since we aren't there w/ the truck, it makes it more difficult.

The first few things in troubleshooting should be to ensure batteries and alternator are healthy (and keep batteries properly charged), and then you need to make sure that the sensors that you will be using to troubleshoot with are accurate. I guess the next steps would be to check all fluid levels.

IMO you have several things going on at once and no single issue seems to have been resolved yet except maybe to hole in the downpipe.

You need ICP volts to compare to the ICP "psi" reading in order to properly troubleshoot the high pressure oil system. Almost all scan devices will give you ICP volts. Why not tell us what you are using to read engine parameters with and maybe we can help you find that parameter (jokester00 asked that question in post #8)?

From a previous thread, you clearly had a FICM issue (or associated wiring/harness issue), but when asked about it there wasn't a direct response on resolving the issue, so we really are jumbling up several issues - IMO anyway.

From all the posts, you are likely to have -
stuck turbo
bad FICM (or FICM wiring)
high pressure oil leak

If you take it in, I hate to say it, but you will likely end up w/ a new HPOP in the mix of fixes, and many times a new HPOP just isn't needed with the 05 and up model years.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The batteries were fine but they got weak while trying to diagnosing the issue. At the moment I am using my SCT GTX because I haven't gotten anything else to scan, because the truck keeps breaking. And from the other posts I had an issue with over boosting, which has been resolved. The VGT solenoid was not working. The plug was melted.
 

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Thank you for the update on the VGT solenoid.

On a scan tool, you can get a $5 app for a smart phone (if you have one) and a $35 ELM327 OBD-II adapter (WiFi for i-phone and BlueTooth for Android). ForScan is a better code reader, but torque Pro is a nice interface for reading engine parameters.

Lastly, the comment on batteries was primarily directed at the fill rate of the oil filter. You didn't really answer if it could have affected the fill rate, or if the fill rate you posted was absolutely the best fill rate possible (ie a very strong crank).
 
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