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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
I have some kind of weird sound happening it sounds like it’s coming from the front of the engine. So far I have checked the 2 idler pulleys on the front I thought they were loose. I also probed around with a stethoscope, the most prominent area I hear the noise coming from the intake tube to intercooler.
Could anyone be of some assistance and help me possibly pinpoint this?
Videos linked.
Engine starting
Engine slightly accelerated
 

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Get in there and wiggle everything with your hands while the engine is off. I would think you'd be able to find that noise. Your squeak might be a clue as well...

-jokester
 

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Hi all,
I have some kind of weird sound happening it sounds like it’s coming from the front of the engine. So far I have checked the 2 idler pulleys on the front I thought they were loose. I also probed around with a stethoscope, the most prominent area I hear the noise coming from the intake tube to intercooler.
Could anyone be of some assistance and help me possibly pinpoint this?
Videos linked.
Engine starting
Engine slightly accelerated
With the negative boost you're reading And that noise, I'm leaning towards an exhaust leak. Remember these trucks are fairly well insulated and noises echo around the engine bay. So start with the up pipe connection on the manifolds, double check the bellows for cracks also.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies guys, I have been brainstorming on the problem since yesterday. So yesterday I pulled (what I call) the 2 idler pulleys off and inspected them. One of them when I put the ratchet on to remove it the bolt loosened without effort. So the pulleys have a kind of threaded washer on the backside that sits against the front cover where they bolt into. So I tried diligently to reinstall and maintain the tension on the bolt to washer. It did decrease the sound but didn’t eliminate it. So I’m going to start with those 2 parts. Has anyone had any experience with just replacing the bearings in these? Any recommendations?

I did another test to eliminate anything else, I removed the belt and started the engine, the sound disappears. So that definitely helps narrow the issue down. I’ll keep you guys posted.
I had also suspected possibly the water pump or fan assembly. But there is no movement whatsoever when I check the play. I do however still have a slight bit of play on the 2 idler pulleys. My experience tells me that even sometimes when checking bearings like that the appearance could be good but performance isn’t. I’m going to start easy and cheap, then progress. That squeaking has always been there since I bought the truck but I haven’t been able to pinpoint it. But I could narrow it down to a few items as I have replaced the tensioner (with it being an aftermarket part I won’t eliminate this), power steering pump (rebuilt OEM) and the water pump (with a bulletproof water pump). So that only leaves a few things left to look at.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi y’all,
Here is a follow up, update. I had 2 of the 4 bolts shear off on the pulley to water pump. 1 bolt was Mia, one bolt was still set at the torque specification. I marked the bolts after I set them to the torque specification.
With the one bolt still holding, I couldn’t move the pulley even with the fan connected, so it appeared everything was fine until I got the fan out of the way (I think I just didn’t notice they were gone, it never even crossed my mind them bolts were a suspect). One of the bolts that sheared off, I had already removed one of the pieces that was still in the pump. There is also a photo of it disassembled the threads are still good. This time I have new bolts and I’m using blue loctite.
I’ve attached a couple photos.
Camera accessory Camera lens Cameras & optics Lens Film camera
Motor vehicle Vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive design
 

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You didn't change out the waterpump? From the 1st picture, it looks like the threads for the fan clutch are galled up pretty bad!

-jokester
 
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Yeah, that fan clutch should just spin on by hand, then a little bump with a wrench to keep it tight
those threads look like the fan pulley was not on the shoulder in the first place
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The threads are perfect just like new, it is the lighting and the angle. What you think is galling is arp ultra torque lube. The fan spins on and off freely. When I sent the photos to bulletproof diesel they thought the same. It could’ve been my really talented picture taking as well.
Even looking at the bolt holes up close they look weird I think I used arp lube on them as well. I will not make that same mistake again. It will get cleaned up and blue loctite on those 4 new Oem bolts.
I bet I drove the truck almost a year before this happened.
What is both your thoughts on using the arp anti seize on the fan clutch only?
It wasn’t easy to take off, when I put it on, in order to get it tight I had to use a pipe wrench I may have very slightly over torqued it. But I assure you no damage done to those threads. Tomorrow evening I’ll be back out there putting it all back together, I’ll take some more pictures.


You didn't change out the waterpump? From the 1st picture, it looks like the threads for the fan clutch are galled up pretty bad!
It is a brand new water pump. There is nothing wrong with it, man I triple checked it.
It is a brand new water pump. There is nothing wrong with it, man I triple checked it.
I even contacted the manufacturer, they also said they would honor the warranty even though it was over by 1 month.


Yeah, that fan clutch should just spin on by hand, then a little bump with a wrench to keep it tight
those threads look like the fan pulley was not on the shoulder in the first place
I had to put a lot of effort in taking the fan off, it was certainly on there and not coming off.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The crazy thing is I checked all of that. The negative boost must be a combination of the new turbo and the new intercooler. I think the tuner doesn’t like that combo. No leaks anywhere, I’ve checked them bellows multiple times. I’ve driven it for almost a year I’ll be investing in an actual boost gauge soon. I’m also think about a few custom tunes. It shouldn’t hurt it, you’d think.
That noise is the AC compressor, I honestly don’t know what to do with it. It’s been there making that noise since I bought the truck in 2015. Ac is super cold and works great. 🤷🏼‍♂️

With the negative boost you're reading And that noise, I'm leaning towards an exhaust leak. Remember these trucks are fairly well insulated and noises echo around the engine bay. So start with the up pipe connection on the manifolds, double check the bellows for cracks also.
 

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ARP lube has interesting characteristics. One is that it does not allow for the polishing of threads, which every other lube does, as dry threads do. To do that, there has to be something that inhibits contact. For me, that's a curious situation with coarse threads, as the inclined angle is more prone to loosening than fine threads. So I've made the decision, despite having a large bottle of the lube, to use it only with ARP fine threads.

But I can understand thinking about using it on the fan clutch. So it might be the second place I would.

Idler bearings were mentioned earlier, but I don't remember a response. What I have in my notes, and I have replaced those bearings before. You need a hammer and two 2x4s.

The bearing numbers used in the trucks are 6203 and 6303. Early 2003 trucks may have 6203 in all positions.

Idler pulley smooth and grooved p/n 6303-2RS (1 ea)
Belt tensioner p/n 6203-2RS (2)

The best bearings are NTN and will have an LU at the end, such as 6203-LU and 6303-LU, although there also is a double lip version available from NTN, -LLU, maybe not needed.

The bearing info comes from a very good source.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am not sure, those 2 items are the only thing that I could come up with to alter the boost. I did install an SR2 intake ported and polished. I don’t know if that would affect it. I honestly don’t have an answer for that.

I got the turbo and the CAC from KC turbos the turbo is a stage 1. The injectors are a alliant, no upgrade.

I am having difficulty seeing how a Charge-Air-Cooler can contribute to a "negative boost".
 

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I had not listened to your vids till tonight -- put a new compressor on there, that one is not long for this world
the swash plate is hammering on at least one of the pistons

couple of different styles of compressor that are used -- one uses double ended pistons and a swash plate to operate them from the center
The other uses 5 or 7 single pistons and an oscillating plate with a gear in the center -- the connecting rod usually is the failure on this style

Either way -- looking at a new compressor, flush, dryer and orifice tube -- system will be full of aluminum particles
this can be flushed pretty good with on of those disposable kits and an air hose
the one that uses the "orange peel" solvent -- NAPA sells one that I use
 

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Never realized there were videos ......😲
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I ordered the Air Conditioning Compressor and Component Kit TEM New, from Napa. Do you have any suggestions on the flush if I don't have the machine? I had imagined it was easier to replace before I re-install my radiator. When I asked the guy about the "orange peel" solvent he just looked at me funny. So I wasn't sure if that was included in the kit or not.

I had not listened to your vids till tonight -- put a new compressor on there, that one is not long for this world
the swash plate is hammering on at least one of the pistons

couple of different styles of compressor that are used -- one uses double ended pistons and a swash plate to operate them from the center
The other uses 5 or 7 single pistons and an oscillating plate with a gear in the center -- the connecting rod usually is the failure on this style

Either way -- looking at a new compressor, flush, dryer and orifice tube -- system will be full of aluminum particles
this can be flushed pretty good with on of those disposable kits and an air hose
the one that uses the "orange peel" solvent -- NAPA sells one that I use
 

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I get the kit from my local napa store, it may just be something this store handles, and not a napa product
the aerosol can is about one liter in size with a hose attached to the outlet -- I spray some into the part to clean and follow with a blast of shop air, to push the "slug" thru along with any junk

Basically washing the inside of the lines / core
Really, the instructions want you to use the whole can of product, but that is wasteful -- one can will do the whole flush job, along with air
this is a disposable kit -- there are re-usable kits, but they are more expensive

That doesn't surprise me that the "parts guy" didn't know -- half of the time you have to lookup your own parts, to get the right ones.
you dont need a "machine" - only a vacuum pump -- gots to get that air and moisture out of the system
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sounds great we will see on Wednesday, that’s when the kit comes. I’ve got another Napa to try if it’s not in the kit. My uncle has the vacuum pump and the recovery kit.

Thanks,

Aaron

I get the kit from my local napa store, it may just be something this store handles, and not a napa product
the aerosol can is about one liter in size with a hose attached to the outlet -- I spray some into the part to clean and follow with a blast of shop air, to push the "slug" thru along with any junk

Basically washing the inside of the lines / core
Really, the instructions want you to use the whole can of product, but that is wasteful -- one can will do the whole flush job, along with air
this is a disposable kit -- there are re-usable kits, but they are more expensive

That doesn't surprise me that the "parts guy" didn't know -- half of the time you have to lookup your own parts, to get the right ones.
you dont need a "machine" - only a vacuum pump -- gots to get that air and moisture out of the system
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Funny story on the kit, it never went through from Napa when I ordered it. Called them to check and the lady says, it’s saying there was a problem.
I ordered it from Pensacola Diesel’s, it’ll be here tomorrow. Excellent people over there!

Sounds great we will see on Wednesday, that’s when the kit comes. I’ve got another Napa to try if it’s not in the kit. My uncle has the vacuum pump and the recovery kit.

Thanks,

Aaron
 

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Wow. Lots of folks will disagree regarding Pensacola Diesel being a reliable source of quality parts .........

A few searches will bring up some unhappy folks posting up opinions on them.
 
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