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Discussion Starter #1
As the title says, but I was wondering if anyone know a good place to get cheep parts to my front end, as in bushings, king pins, ect...... I have a 1995 2wd f-350.
 

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i got all my parts from napa.. and what front end do you have, cause i thought kingpins didnt need to ever be replaced.. if you have the twin beam i can help, but thats doesnt have kingpins.
 

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Yes, I have the twin I beam, and your help would be appreciated!

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Discussion Starter #4
My dad called advanced and they had king pins for my truck. But idk they are idiot's lol

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just get all the parts from napa, buy the best stuff they have, and you can borrow/rent the press from one of the auto part stores. i used an air impact gun to do everything - definately made pressing everything in/out easier. i changed upper/lower ball joints, radius arm bushing, axle pivot bushings, outter tie rod ends, and front shocks also.

ball joints are pretty straight foward, press out, press in.. the axle pivot bushings you dont press in completely. youll understand once u see them. you want the axle centered in between the total thickness of the bushing. radius arm bushings are also pretty straight foward, but were a PITA for me.. i used a chain hoist to pull the axle's out of, and them back into place. front struts are very easy. tie rods ends - just count the number of turns to take each one off, then turn the new one in the same amount. YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED TO GET AN ALIGNMENT AFTER ALL THIS.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0z-gCDC8oO

Ford F150 Ball Joint Removal Photo 7

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com



axle pivot bushings-removal tool - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 

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jack up front of truck and place on jackstands, chock rear wheels. remove wheels, and just work on one side at a time. should get that ball joint spereator/fork to make life easy. do ball joints first. for the axle pivot bushings just place a jack under the them so you can let them down, and push them back into place after the bushing is pressed in. like i said, i didnt take radius arms off, i removed nut, and pulled the axle out of, and back into place with a ratchet hoist. ... looking back - it might be easier to remove the axle pivot bolts, and then just pull radius arms out of place so u dont need to fight them.. tie rod ends after that, shocks last..

search around - google, youtube, forums, online magazine postings.. it wasnt too bad esp being only 2wd.. just time, and learning how to do it.. also - get yourself a grease gun - youll need to grease everything, and DONT buy parts without grease fittings. you do all this and you wont belive what a difference is makes.. i still want to do my front hubs, bearings and brakes too.
 

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Great post Typhoon. Pretty much sums it up.
To the OP, consider youtself lucky you have a 2WD and don't have to deal with the center axle u-joint on the 4WD D50. That alone would double the time of the project.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks ALOT man, when I get the $ to do it I'll try and take pics and stuff. Someone needy to make this a sticky!!!!!
 

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NAPA part list :
upper ball joint - Part Number: NCP 2601309 - $41.40 each
lower ball joint - Part Number: NCP 2601311 - $38.25 each
axle pivot bushing - Part Number: NCP 2675289 - $16.55 ( i think these are the one's- 5/8" bolt)
axle pivot bushing - Part Number: NCP 2675391- $19.80 ( if not those - then these - 1/2" bolt)
radius arm bushing - Part Number: NCP 2749184 - $24.30
tie rod ends are either $56 or $88 a peice - cant rember what ones - they have 2 diffrent ones listed
also - i bought all 4 shocks from them too - heavy duty - dont see them listed.. i think they were about $45 each and they had a $50 rebate at the time when you bought 4.. you can get cheaper ones at the chain stores for half that.. if your gonna do the front end, for another 1 or 200 you might as well do the shocks.. itll ride like a new truck.
 
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