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Discussion Starter #1
06 F350 6.0. I am using Torque to monitor. My Motorcraft batteries are one year old and when fully charged read 12.8 volts each. With KOEO cold before start the battery voltages climbs from 10.8 to 11.1 while I wait for the glow plug light to go out. Cranking I saw 9.8 then jumps to 11.3 to 11.6 on start and first 20 seconds running. After about 45 sec or so in the 12's then finally hits 14.1 after glow plugs shut off.
The FICM main voltage during this time ranges 47 to 47.5 and then might hit 48.5 but usually runs 47.5 to 48. The FLP & FVP both start at 10.0 but climbs to 11.0 just before I crank it over. They both read 14v or so after glow plugs go out.
From reading some posts these voltages seem on the low side? How should I test to see if something is drawing down the voltage or do these seem ok?
 

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06 F350 6.0. I am using Torque to monitor. My Motorcraft batteries are one year old and when fully charged read 12.8 volts each. With KOEO cold before start the battery voltages climbs from 10.8 to 11.1 while I wait for the glow plug light to go out. Cranking I saw 9.8 then jumps to 11.3 to 11.6 on start and first 20 seconds running. After about 45 sec or so in the 12's then finally hits 14.1 after glow plugs shut off.

The FICM main voltage during this time ranges 47 to 47.5 and then might hit 48.5 but usually runs 47.5 to 48. The FLP & FVP both start at 10.0 but climbs to 11.0 just before I crank it over. They both read 14v or so after glow plugs go out.

From reading some posts these voltages seem on the low side? How should I test to see if something is drawing down the voltage or do these seem ok?
It is normal for voltages to drop when starting and stay low until the glow plugs go out. With that said those voltages seem a little on the low side. Use a batter tester to test each battery individually. Do not test with them still connected together. If you dont have one take the battery to a local parts store. They can usually check them for you. That is the first place to start.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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I have seen 12.8v on a battery that then drops WAY down on a load test. Static voltage does not tell the story on a battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks I will start by getting the batteries checked out. Could be a problem even with them being one year old.
 

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Thanks I will start by getting the batteries checked out. Could be a problem even with them being one year old.
I have had interstate batteries die on me twice. after less than a year in my RV. I had drained them down to 5 volts after parking the RV for a couple of weeks, and they never recovered. I now keep my truck on a trickle charger and remove my battery from the RV and keep it on a trickle charger.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update

So before I charged batteries I checked voltage after start test. Both read 12.5v. I charged them both and they both read 12.8v. I now load tested both and they checked almost like new. There rated 1000cca at my temperature.
I did read a article that stated Fords were common to loose voltage thur the fuseable link. Wonder if that's going on or other problem.
Where should I go from here?
 

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Not all load testers are created equal, but short of ordering one for yourself, I don’t know what to do next. Maybe have them test it in the car, nut then again don’t think most parts store tester’s are built for a SUper Duty Dual Battery tester.

I think I had something like that happen last time where the battery would seem like it was cranking a little slower, but tested fine at the store. I tried adding a solar trickle charger, but eventually the batteries tested bad and I switched them. I also had AAA towing in case something happened away from the house. Might be all you can do is charge it when its off, plug it in to heat it, and have roadside assistance. To me that beats spending $250+ on two new batteries just in case.
 

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I (Redneck)load test in the truck -- pull the driver side battery
put your volt meter on the remaining battery and crank over
note the speed of the crank and the voltage

Swap the battery out and repeat -- the weak battery will show

The engine will start just fine on only one battery, if all is good
since yours is not starting ...I acknowledge there is a problem
just have to eliminate the easy stuff first
 
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Discussion Starter #10
No problem starting my truck. Just concern over low voltage reading Torque App showed on startup. Found these quotes on checking fusible links / cables to cross them off as being possible cause.


•"Measure voltage. Voltage drop through the fusible links is a common concern for all Ford vehicles, and the 6.0L diesel is very likely to have these concerns. With the vehicle running and the alternator charging under heavy load, measure the voltage at both batteries, the B+ post on the alternator, and on the sense wire of the alternator (pin 3 – reference image to your left). All four readings MUST be within 0.5 volts of each other. "



Primary causes of the high current draw include:
• Glow plugs
• FICM and injectors
• Fuel pump

Other high current accessories may include:
• Blower motor
• A/C compressor
• Windshield wipers
• Heated seats
• Add-on equipment

" The easiest way to check the fusible links or cable is check for 12v+ voltage engine off between the alternator positive output terminal and the alternator case or passenger battery negative terminal. If it's 12v+, the cable is good.
 

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Are these numbers lower than you usually see?

After re-reading this, I'm not sure your baseline is that bad. I'm going to watch my truck again, but 11.3 does not seem bad after start up on a normal alternator. The batteries are basically powering an electronic oven and will stay low until the oven, the glow plugs shut off. The 9.6 while cranking, I'd like to hear what the baseline is for others with a stock alternator. I hear the more powerful alternators might like the 220 Amps may not dip voltages, but the stock 140 amp alternator will. I can't remember if I see 9.5 or 10.2 with the engine cranking on battery voltage.
 

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Where do you want todo this test?

Driver side battery?
Passenger?
Power socket on the dash?
about 40* here and the truck has not been started since last week
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My voltage values were what I read off my phone that I run the Torque Pro gauges on. I shot a video with another phone to catch all the different voltages from the different pids .Went from KOEO to starting and running. My batteries were both showing aprox 12.5v when I checked them before charging to do the load test. After charging they both read 12.8v.

Basically that's what I want to know is if my voltages seem lower than they should be.

I will do wire and fusible link test tomorrow to see if that checks out.
 

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Where do you want todo this test?

Driver side battery?
Passenger?
Power socket on the dash?
about 40* here and the truck has not been started since last week
So got the old Fluke meter out and tested the batteries -- 12.2volts, drivers door and hood open
Set to record Min/Max readings -- got the results below

Driver side
Key on settled in at 11.6 (glow plugs were on)
Crank -- Min reading showed 10.2 -- now this Min reading would be affected by the initial current rush

Passenger side -- I turned the key off as soon as the engine had ran for about 10 seconds from the first test
Key on -- 11.5(glow plugs on again)
Crank -- 9.8 -- again the Min catches the current inrush to the starter

I did not check continual cranking as the engine was starting after about three or four compressions
the voltage would have been some higher that what the meter caught on the Min reading

Charging while the glow plugs were on, was slow but rising
I did not time the glow plug run time, but after what seemed to be about 30 seconds, the voltage went up faster
Voltage topped out in a few minutes at 13.2, but I am sure the batteries would have came up more if the truck had ran longer
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok checked the fusible links/cable by doing test described in previous page post #10 at bottom. Got 12.5v on each test location.

I think at this point I need to get some other people using, Torque to monitor, to see what kind of voltage reading they get from KOEO, cranking, and idling on a cold engine. This way I can see how mind compare.

If your running Torque app to monitor and don't mind posting your voltages described in the start post of this thread I would appreciate it. Thanks for your input in advance.
 
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