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Discussion Starter #1
I posted yesterday trying to track down the source of a P0299 underboost code.

I had just replaced my glow plugs and glow plug harnesses. Replacing the harnesses had me pulling out the Air Intake, and fiddling with all kinds of stuff as I contorted to get them in and out. I figured I might have boogered something up. All my sensors seem fine, and on the advice of another member I watched my VGT%.

I had previously run it vigorously when it threw the code, I cleared it, and then I monitored the VGT%. It seemed everything was back to normal, so I figured I’d freed up the vanes and the unison ring by driving it hard and things were back to normal. Nope. Got another P0299. So I watched the VGT% and found that it pegged at both 15% and 85% while going down the freeway at about 2K RPM.

Everything feels fine, turbo seems to be spooling up correctly, MAF, MAP, ICP AND BARO all seem to be working properly. Seems a pretty big coincidence that I’m having all this problem immediately after digging into everything. I’m about to pull the turbo and clean out the inside, but I thought I’d check in first.

Can y’all see a situation where the work I did caused the problem and not a dirty turbo?
Could an air leak or a sensor problem cause both underboost code and the VGT% problems I’m having?

I’d hate to pull the turbo and clean it and still have the same problem.

Thanks in advance
 

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Mr. Crossthread
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4,455 Posts
Could be a wire, vgt solenoid connector, EBP issue etc.

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Mr. Crossthread
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Vgt duty cycle is a commanded PID not actual % read, keep that in mind also.

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the response.

Would a broken or mangled wire on the VGT solenoid or EBP cause a bad read of the commanded VGT?

I would have thought that I would get no read, or an EBP related code. Sure would make sense as I had my hands all up in those areas straining to get that glow plug harness in and out.
 

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Mr. Crossthread
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Normally will get a code if it's a wire, but I've seen some weird things happen regarding wiring. Lol. I would check ebp readings KOEO, idle, and while driving.

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Discussion Starter #6
KOEO EBP, MAF,Map, ICP and BARO are all zero, and all appear to function normally when driving. Sensors all seem to check out.
 

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Mr. Crossthread
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What are you using to read ebp?

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KOEO EBP, MAF,Map, ICP and BARO are all zero, and all appear to function normally when driving. Sensors all seem to check out.
Baro should read 14.7 KOEO depending on altitude, not 0.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I’m using a Dashboss monitor, it’s Bluetooth through the OBD port. It reads BARO, but as I think about it I was only checking EBP, MAP and MAF. I’ll check BARO at startup and see what it says.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yesterday I took it up the hill for an extended drive and was monitoring VGT percentage the whole time and I’m definitely at 15 and 85% sometimes. I was also having strange fluttering Dash sucking sounds coming from what seem to be the turbo under load on a hill.

I found that the connector for the solenoid for the VGT is worn and I can see bare wires, so I am about to replace that.

However, I was tearing things down to check it out and I got a look at the turbo wheel. One of the fins looks worn, the silver finish is gone in some spots And I can see the green material that’s underneath, but it’s not bent or distorted, and the turbo Spins freely. Is this something I should be worried about?
 

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99/100 times 299 is going to be a sticking turbo. 6.0 ecms require a large leak to throw a 299 code. More often it’s overboost causing the code. 6.0s are not picky about the amount of air coming into the engine. Some 05s don’t even monitor MAF.
 

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99/100 times 299 is going to be a sticking turbo. 6.0 ecms require a large leak to throw a 299 code. More often it’s overboost causing the code. 6.0s are not picky about the amount of air coming into the engine. Some 05s don’t even monitor MAF.
Such is the case of my '05 F350. Now that I own a 2nd 6.0 I'm getting a real education on how many different configurations of the 6.0 are out there. I sort of waited on a rust free '05 to come along because I thought I would be totally familiar with the systems under the hood. Wrong!!

k
 

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Compression Ignition Addict
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VGT guide (and a few others) attached
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Those are really useful links, thanks Bismic!

Well, I did all the tests, and was hoping for an easier solution. Replaced my VGT solenoid connector and still had problems. So....out came the turbo. What a pain! I’ve had it out before (twice), but this time it seemed much harder. A few years back I had the bulletproof remote oil cooler put in and I think the hoses coming out of the valley made pulling and replacing the turbo harder.

My turbo looked pretty bad when I pulled it apart. The unison ring was completely sealed on the bearing side of the housing, and my vanes were really sticky. The wheel had several fins damaged on the leading edge (don’t know how that could have happened) and my compressor wheel has one fin that is showing wear (I the finish is coming off and I can see the green base material). I think most mechanics would have told me to buy a new turbo. Problem is that it’s not in the budget right now, and as I got to thinking the thing is producing plenty of boost. So, seems the exhaust side is spinning fast enough, and the overall geometry on both wheels looks fine. I decided to get to cleaning and put it back together.

It’s all back in now, but I’m waiting for a net cold air inlet tube. Mine got roached at the point where it connects to the turbo and its on the verge of not sealing well. Don’t know how that happened, but I’m glad I saw it before it stranded me.

I have a feeling I’m gonna regret not replacing the turbo.....we will see.
 

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You can get a brand new, never been used Garrett turbo from Summit for a real good price

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