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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had a no start problem hot/cold. I suspected oil rail leak and did not want to do a top rebuild again. Last one was in 2011 due to liquid lock due to tty/head gasket failure. Bought an EGR delete kit as well as new upgraded oil cooler and head studs in 2011. Was unaware of stand pipe and dummy plug upgrades :-( This lasted 5-6yrs failing in March/April 2017. As stated above, didn't want to do the oil rail again due to being disabled. Got someone to help me (read as I was the helper) and did turn out to be an o-ring seal on the passenger side oil rail at firewall end of rail. My friend did the oil rail and fuel injector o-ring rebuilds. Engine now starts very well hot and cold. However it now has a poor acceleration when starting out at standstill. It takes several seconds to get engine up above 1000rpm which is a hazard when entering roads from side roads and driveways. Shifting gears at >2K rpm truck drives fine. Power at idle is good and will pull the truck at idle even in 3rd gear up slight hills. This is my first diesel so I do not know if the power at idle is relevant. Boost seems OK once rpm get above 1000-1200 through 2500-3000. I normally do not drive WOT and do not what boost is WOT. What should I check? How can I test the VGT without fancy diagnostic tools and such. I do have a scan gaugeII and can post anything it can display. TIA
 

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Unplug the vgt solenoid on the turbo and listen for a slight change in exhaust tone. It should slightly change when unplugging/plugging. You need some way of monitoring parameters. Get a bluetooth dongle for $20 and download the free torque app. If you just did work before this happened, check all connections, such as MAP hose and connection.


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Discussion Starter #3
I do have a scangauge II hooked up right now. Can get whatever values it can display. Currently boost goes from 0.x to low 20's. MAP is 12.x to 14.8-15.x idle to 2K+. Under no load, engine is fairly responsive from 700rpm 3K+. Problem is only under load. The truck did sit for almost 18 months, batteries went almost completely dead (1.xV) with the key fobs needing reprogramming to work after charging batteries. Do not know if dead batteries could have caused key fob issue or was just coincidence. According to scangauge, system voltage is 13.3 while running. This a little low in my opinion, but don't know if it is an issue. I have purchased an ELM327 compatible dongle and am awaiting for delivery. I have the free torque program but will probably buy the pro version this month or next.I will try to do the VGT solenoid tomorrow.
 

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Your MAP reads ~15psi from idle to 2K+ RPM's???

Compare your MAP reading to EBP and BARO KOEO - they should all be within 0.5psi of each other. Then, like @backhoebill said, watch your VGT while driving - should never see it hit 15% or 85% under normal driving.

-jokester
 

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Any codes?
 

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No, no codes. I wish I did at least might give me a diagnostic hint. When I first got the scangauge II I there were codes but I still was learning how to use it and did no know codes would reset by themselves and yes I am sure I did not push the clear button. Now it shows no codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Your MAP reads ~15psi from idle to 2K+ RPM's???

Compare your MAP reading to EBP and BARO KOEO - they should all be within 0.5psi of each other. Then, like @backhoebill said, watch your VGT while driving - should never see it hit 15% or 85% under normal driving.

-jokester
Yes and no, what I wrote is that MAP on the scangauge ll, reads 12.x at idle and 14 to 15.x at 2000rpm. From your post, if the MAP reading correct I already have a problem. Still raining here which is always welcome. Will try to get to pulling the solenoid cable tomorrow morning before rain starts.
 
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