Vegistroke installers - I got a quick question.

3167 Views 24 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Marv, Jun 13, 2008

Marv

Discussion Starter · Jun 13, 2008

As I mentioned in my other thread, I'm about to install the Vegistroke kit this weekend and had a quick question.

Regarding the fuel line fittings that install into the unused ports in the back of the heads - is there a torque value that should be used on these when installing them?

I've read the instructions over a number of times, but no mention of torque values - I believe "tighten snug" is the verbage used.

My fear (of course) is accidental overtightening, so figured I'd check to see if anyone has a torque value they've come across when doing this. I'll be super, extra careful when doing it, but sometimes crap happens. :doh:

To be honest, I'm not even sure I'll be able to get a torque wrench in there, but never hurts to ask.

Thanks!

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Clay Henry

· #2 · Jun 13, 2008

you can not over tighten these...20 lbs of tourque is good and no you can't get a touque wrench in there...Do the front banjo bolts first and see what they fell like when you remove them.
About like tightening a spark plug in a lawn mower...

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Clay Henry

· #6 · Jun 13, 2008

Justinlw said:
I will add this suggestion. Apparently Jason's machine shop turned down a relief in the top portion of some of his check valves for the diesel lines. Keep in mind that they have a rubber seal, not a crush washer. They do not require that much torque, and if you're not careful the head of the check valve will pop off! I broke one with a 5" long wrench handle! Once you get them snug to where they require effort to turn with the wrench, I wouldn't go any further than 1/8th of a turn.

He no longer uses those two piece machined bolts. They are one piece and the tops will not come off if tightened to much.

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Clay Henry

· #8 · Jun 13, 2008

I'm not seeing the hardware to tap into your heater hoses either. the elbows maybe for the fuel line and return line on the tank?
Call Jason, this is unnaceptable and you can tell him i said that. :sofa:

And then tell him to get me my gosh dern pickup tube!

Then tell him i'm kidding.

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Clay Henry

· #9 · Jun 13, 2008

he will probably over night some stuff to you but you can go ahead and do the front banjos, the tank and the hose from the module to the tank. You also can do the wiring and then when you get the other stuff, you can finish in a couple hours.
Jason is very busy and ****t happens...RDS is responsible for the screw up on the pickup tube.

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Clay Henry

· #10 · Jun 13, 2008

oh and the hose clamps are for all the coolant hose fittings and the fuel lines to the tank. The JIC fittings don't need hose clamps.

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Clay Henry

· #14 · Jun 13, 2008

i don't understand your question about the hose...call me and we can speed this process up.

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Clay Henry

· #15 · Jun 13, 2008

Marv said:
Ok great...thanks!

I didn't think they did, but wanted to check.

Also, is the pickup tube something I can put in later? Just drop in?

How did they handle yours?

Thanks!

I don't know, i'm still waiting on the brown truck to bring mine - it better be here today.
I assume it threads in.

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Clay Henry

· #18 · Jun 13, 2008

I have seen 3 different check valve designes...the latest is a $70.00 part and i doubt they can be broken unless you put a cheater bar on it.

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Clay Henry

· #22 · Jun 13, 2008

Marv said:
Man, you guys are scaring me...haha. :crazy:

I'll have to check my "Incredible Hulk" strength at the door before I go out and start working on the truck!! :rofl:

You'll be alright...as soon as it tightens up, stop...if it leaks give it a tad more torque.
Call Ray back and tell him to overnight yours too. Just talked to Jason and he is pissed at Ray for this continued problem so he should be doing all he can to take care of it.
Call him back. :nod:

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