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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I mentioned in my other thread, I'm about to install the Vegistroke kit this weekend and had a quick question.

Regarding the fuel line fittings that install into the unused ports in the back of the heads - is there a torque value that should be used on these when installing them?

I've read the instructions over a number of times, but no mention of torque values - I believe "tighten snug" is the verbage used.

My fear (of course) is accidental overtightening, so figured I'd check to see if anyone has a torque value they've come across when doing this. I'll be super, extra careful when doing it, but sometimes crap happens. :doh:

To be honest, I'm not even sure I'll be able to get a torque wrench in there, but never hurts to ask.

Thanks!
 

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you can not over tighten these...20 lbs of tourque is good and no you can't get a touque wrench in there...Do the front banjo bolts first and see what they fell like when you remove them.
About like tightening a spark plug in a lawn mower...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
you can not over tighten these...20 lbs of tourque is good and no you can't get a touque wrench in there...Do the front banjo bolts first and see what they fell like when you remove them.
About like tightening a spark plug in a lawn mower...
Ok, great. That's about what I expected them to be actually. I didn't figure they'd need to be super tight to seal correctly anyways.

Thanks Clay!
 

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I will add this suggestion. Apparently Jason's machine shop turned down a relief in the top portion of some of his check valves for the diesel lines. Keep in mind that they have a rubber seal, not a crush washer. They do not require that much torque, and if you're not careful the head of the check valve will pop off! I broke one with a 5" long wrench handle! Once you get them snug to where they require effort to turn with the wrench, I wouldn't go any further than 1/8th of a turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will add this suggestion. Apparently Jason's machine shop turned down a relief in the top portion of some of his check valves for the diesel lines. Keep in mind that they have a rubber seal, not a crush washer. They do not require that much torque, and if you're not careful the head of the check valve will pop off! I broke one with a 5" long wrench handle! Once you get them snug to where they require effort to turn with the wrench, I wouldn't go any further than 1/8th of a turn.
Thanks Justin, I'll definitely keep that in mind. I really appreciate the heads up! :thumb:
 

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I will add this suggestion. Apparently Jason's machine shop turned down a relief in the top portion of some of his check valves for the diesel lines. Keep in mind that they have a rubber seal, not a crush washer. They do not require that much torque, and if you're not careful the head of the check valve will pop off! I broke one with a 5" long wrench handle! Once you get them snug to where they require effort to turn with the wrench, I wouldn't go any further than 1/8th of a turn.
He no longer uses those two piece machined bolts. They are one piece and the tops will not come off if tightened to much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Welp, looks like I've already ran into some issues.

From reading the instructions and comparing to the fittings I received from DFA, I'm almost certain I'm missing some fittings.

Looks like I got all the hose I need.

Got the front banjo bolts, got the replacement fittings for the plugs in the back of the heads, got the 1/4" hose that runs from the replacement fittings down to the module. However, I'm missing the "T" that joins the two 1/4" hoses together and converts it to a single 3/8" line running to the module.

Also, Clay it looks like I got one of the tanks without a pick up tube as well. I pulled the two center connections off and from what I can see, no pick up tube.

So...not sure it's gonna happen this weekend...:dunno:

Here is a couple pics of what I got with the kit. This is all the fuel/water related hardware that came with it





Top left to right - replacement fittings for plugs, replacement check valves/bolts for front of the motor.

Can someone tell me what the elbows are for? I have yet to find a need for them from the instructions.

Bottom left to right - #6 JIC fitting to 3/8" barb - used to run from "T" (that joins the 1/4" lines) to the module and I assume from the module back to the tank. However, to do this, you'd need four of them - so I'm one short. Looks like I'm short some hardware for the tank as well.

Finally, on the bottom right, one #6 JIC to 1/4" barb and one 1/4" flare (don't know the JIC # for 1/4" flare) to 1/4" barb fitting. No clue where these go.

The missing fittings don't concern me that much - I can pick up what I need locally to "make" it work - unless what DFA sends is something special that you can pick up at Home Depot?

Also, do all the barb fittings need hose clamps? Doesn't mention it anywhere in the instructions.

Clay, any idea if I'm short on fittings? Sure seems like it to me.

If someone could just tell me what size lines and fittings go where, I'm sure I could handle it once I pick up the missing fittings (assuming they're not a special type).

Thanks!
 

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I'm not seeing the hardware to tap into your heater hoses either. the elbows maybe for the fuel line and return line on the tank?
Call Jason, this is unnaceptable and you can tell him i said that. :sofa:

And then tell him to get me my gosh dern pickup tube!

Then tell him i'm kidding. :D
 

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he will probably over night some stuff to you but you can go ahead and do the front banjos, the tank and the hose from the module to the tank. You also can do the wiring and then when you get the other stuff, you can finish in a couple hours.
Jason is very busy and ****t happens...RDS is responsible for the screw up on the pickup tube.
 

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oh and the hose clamps are for all the coolant hose fittings and the fuel lines to the tank. The JIC fittings don't need hose clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm not seeing the hardware to tap into your heater hoses either. the elbows maybe for the fuel line and return line on the tank?
Call Jason, this is unnaceptable and you can tell him i said that. :sofa:

And then tell him to get me my gosh dern pickup tube!

Then tell him i'm kidding. :D

No worries on the heater hose hardware - I got those, just didn't include them in the picture.

By the way, you happen to have any pictures of what hose they are referring to? I'm pretty sure I can find the hose for coolant to the tank, but what other one do I tap into for the return? Or do I just put both "T's" into the same line?

I thought the same thing for the elbows, but the threads in the tank are female, which is the same as the elbow. The elbows are flared on one end and a female swivel on the other. Different size it appears as well.

Haha...I'll have to give them a call here shortly.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
he will probably over night some stuff to you but you can go ahead and do the front banjos, the tank and the hose from the module to the tank. You also can do the wiring and then when you get the other stuff, you can finish in a couple hours.
Jason is very busy and ****t happens...RDS is responsible for the screw up on the pickup tube.
Well, if he could, that'd be great really. Not sure it'd make it this weekend (unless it's Saturday delivery), but I could finish it next weekend I suppose.

The big thing is having the truck still in a driveable state. Unlike my other cars, I have to drive this thing just about every day.

Swapping those front bolts won't have any adverse affects without the rest of the system right? (Probably a stupid question...haha. :tard:)

Putting the wiring in won't bother anything either correct?

And, like you said, I could probably mount the module, tank and at least run the coolant lines to the tank.

I might still try to get that done this weekend...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
oh and the hose clamps are for all the coolant hose fittings and the fuel lines to the tank. The JIC fittings don't need hose clamps.
Ok great...thanks!

I didn't think they did, but wanted to check.

Also, is the pickup tube something I can put in later? Just drop in?

How did they handle yours?

Thanks!
 

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i don't understand your question about the hose...call me and we can speed this process up.
 

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Ok great...thanks!

I didn't think they did, but wanted to check.

Also, is the pickup tube something I can put in later? Just drop in?

How did they handle yours?

Thanks!
I don't know, i'm still waiting on the brown truck to bring mine - it better be here today.
I assume it threads in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i don't understand your question about the hose...call me and we can speed this process up.

Ok great...I'll give you a call in the next 15-20 minutes.

Thanks!
 

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He no longer uses those two piece machined bolts. They are one piece and the tops will not come off if tightened to much.
these were one piece, got them about a month ago. They snapped off at the flow thru ports. They were identical to the ones pictured above.
 

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I have seen 3 different check valve designes...the latest is a $70.00 part and i doubt they can be broken unless you put a cheater bar on it.
 

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Got news for you, I paid $80 a piece and broke one, as stated earlier, with 5" long wrench. They weakened the neck by turning it down. It's also wakened by four flow ports being drilled through the stress point of the bolt. If you still don't believe me I can post up some pics of the broken piece. Jason said he had seen it happen a few times and sent me another overnight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Clay, I talked to Ray at RDS and the pick up tube should be here by Tuesday/Wednesday of next week. Thanks for the contact info!!

He also said yours went out today via UPS, so I imagine it'll be there soon.
 
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