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here is how i collect i have a forklift so it makes this possible i have a transfer pump and battery in my bed. we have 4 1000 gal holding tanks i will take a couple pics of our system and tanks
 

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One thing about getting it right fromthe tank, all the trash is settled at the bottomin the morning. The restraunt I get it form has some one who collects it but the restraunt is family owned so he'll just have to get over it. Around here they only give .05 a gallon so if your detrmined I sure you could under cut them with very little effort if you had your own tank out for collection.
P.S. I run straight oil no bio processe no preheating. I mix 1 gallon of diesel to 4 gallons of oil and have a home made flitering system before it ever goes through the fuel pump. I have 2 tanks, I start on straight diesel and after warm up switch to oil, and before shut off I switch back to diesel to clear the injectors. Been doing this for 9 months with no problems, starts right up every time.
sure its .05 a gallon? around here i thought it was .09 a gallon and it turned out to be .09 a lb.
 

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here is how i collect i have a forklift so it makes this possible i have a transfer pump and battery in my bed. we have 4 1000 gal holding tanks i will take a couple pics of our system and tanks

where do you live? do you collect pho too or are you lucky enough to have straight liquid wvo?
 

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sucker tank is the only way to go in cold north east temps. My rest. dumps into 55 gal drums outside for me. I used the 12v pump till it got too thick. Unless you are in to moving heavy barrels you should consider the sucker.

There are plans on the web for sale.... I was able to build mine with a little research.

Tip: Find out where the propane companies send their tanks for reconditioning and contact them. I was able to pick up a 420# propane tank for $15 and the rest can be picked up at a local tractor supply, plumbing outfit......

Anyone that wants info it is pretty basic. email me wj.knight(at)yahoo(dot)com
 

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WVO pumps when it is really thick and cold

It may be a bit pricy, but then again, your getting fuel pretty much for free. You can use an air powered grease pump that mounts on either 5 gal. or 35 gal or 55 gallon drums. If the oil is still somwhat liquid when it is really cold, you dont need to use the rubber diaphram, just stick the pump down in the bung hole and start pumping. Lol that last parts sounds hilarious. We use these where I work at a lot. The one from Graco is a Fireball 300. its for a 35gal drum. You may even be able to find used ones or cheaper ones on ebay.

Graco Fire-Ball 300 Grease Pump (50:1 Pump) (239887)
 

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The secret they leave out is that the factory fuel pump can't handle the higher viscosity. Your pump is probably burned up, and your new one will probably go just as fast. For that matter, I doubt you would see a consistent fuel pressure reading if you checked your new pump after you get it in, which would explain your loss of power. This will eventually kill the injectors, and possibly coke the cylinders enough to make your rings stick. I have heard of a couple people that swear by DSE Blends, but I would like to hear their opinion on it after about 50k miles. I would also like to see DSE do a tear down after 50k and see what the combustion chamber looks like. Maybe a compression test as well.
Here is a update. I replaced the pump and it did not last long. I then installed a FASS 150 fuel system and have been making Bio.

This was a win - win for me. I am not looking back and only looking forward. Using bio while towing a 16,000lbs - Goose neck has been easy. The cost of making bio is .58 cents a gallon and the truck has been running great. The process will take time - pick up the oil, process, filter and re filter.

I make the fuel to tow the trailer 2,000+ mile trips.

The stock pump would never be able to handle the WVO. I did notice that the stock pump did not like the Bio either. The Ford pumps are designed for diesel fuel use only.
The st

The money I have invested to run Bio, I have recovered in the savings of making my own fuel.

I feel using WVO was not the right choice fro what I need it for.
 

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I'm using Collection Lid designed to fit a standard steel 55 gallon drum measuring 38 5/8" OD. The metal collection box and lid are 14 gauge steel. The collection box dimensions are 12” x 12” x 5” deep. An expanded steel mesh is welded in the bottom of the box with diamond shaped openings 3/8" wide which makes for easy pouring while filtering out large objects from the oil. The diamond mesh is approximately 2 1/2 inches below the lid. This prevents overfilling the drum. The collection box is welded into an 18 gauge steel drum cover and then powder coated for durability.
 

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i would say get a couple of the 500 to 100o gal tanks. (if you have the space, like a farm or shop) build a centrifuge setup and make it automatic. sell the oil that even your friends dont take.

my problem is removing the PHO from an outdoor drum. ive been told at 20*F that even a trash pump wont work. the only thing i can think of is lofting the barrel up in my truck, or using a trailer. but that 400 lbs, even half full thats not very feasible.

i thought of putting some concrete in the bottom of the drum to make the drum hard to remove, and then rock salt on the top to help contain setteled water. if anyone has any feasible ideas on remving pho at that temp please let me know!!
How about a liftgate?
 

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We use a Robbins trash pump with a 1 1/2" hose with a ball valve with a 90 to 4' of 1 1/2" PVC ran into a 2 275 gallon plastic totes with metal cages on them on a car hauler trailer. With driving and pumping time we can fill both totes in two hours. We have four totes next to our BIO processing that we pump the full totes into slide the empty totes off the trailer until the next trip. Camlocks and ball valves on both ends of hoses and totes keep the mess to a minimum. Japanese resturants have the cleanest oil they don't fry frozen food so there is no water in the oil.
 
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