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Vegi oil Collection

27070 Views 48 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  RACERX
Thought i would write this up since it seems more people are asking about it.

There are many methods to collect but i chose the easiest and least messy method. Theres a learning curve involved to decide which method is best for you and you will likely end up trying a few different methods before you settle on whats best fr you.
I have pumped it from a dumpster before and that proved to be no fun at all but some people still prefer it. First of all its steeling. The contents of a grease dumpster is the property of the rendering company who owns the don't get caught doing it. Chances are the restaurant won't care if you do this but if the renderer drives up while your there, you may end up in the bottom of his truck vat and listed later as a missing person.
Seriously, these guys are kinda like junk yard dogs.
And then after i filled my barrels (3-4 55 gal. drums) I had to pump it back off the truck as these barrels now weighed around 440 lbs each. This was a time consuming ordeal and it was messy.

So, now i have found what seems to be two of the easiest methods i can think of with no mess at all.
1) i collect from some restaurants using the 5 gallon cubies that the oil comes in when its new. The cooks save these empty cubies and when its time to change the oil in their vats, they are able to drain the grease back into these jugs. they then set them by the back door and i drop by once a week and open the back door, grab them and go. There will be 3-9 jugs of oil each time i collect it. I never know what i will find until i get there, it all depends on how busy they were during the week and how fast the oil gets dirty...they may change It once that week or they may change it 2 times that week.
This will only work IF the restaurant has a cooker with a valve and drain system that will allow them to fit the cubie under it and drain it in. Some restaurants do not have a set up that will allow them to do in that case, heres an easy alternative solution.
I made a barrel to put outside there back door to put the oil in. The have a device for draining the oil into that has wheels on it. They can roll this thing outside and easily pour it into the barrel. The barrel has a half moon cutout of the top - or you could cut the whole top out - and i bought a barrel lid and chained it to the barrel so it won't disappear. The lid will keep rain water out of the barrel-very important. the barrel is sitting on a wooden stand i made out of 2x4 material. It also has a drain welded into the side down low. I used a 3/4" NPT coupling in which i used to screw in a 3/4" NPT nipple and then a locking ball valve with a 90 degree turn down. The drain is welded to the side of the barrel about 4 inches off the bottom. Theres a reason for this and i will touch on that later.
Between the stand and the 4 inch height of the drain valve, i have about 16" (cant remember exactly) from the ground up to the 90* turn down which allows me to place an empty cubie under the valve and open it to fill the cubie. Easy as pie! Now the 4" i refereed to earlier...if there is any water that does get into the barrel, maybe from the cooks leaving the lid off your barrel, you want it to settle to the bottom and not end up draining it into your jugs. 4" will allow this water and any other crud to settle and not get in your jugs. Once in a while (once a year maybe) you will want to drain this crud out by tilting the barrel to allow it to come out the drain into an empty jug that you can discard.

This barrel method is easy but there will be some cost involved. First, find a barrel that you can clean out well. Next if you don't have a MIG welder, you may have to pay a welder to weld a fitting on it. Then a barrel lid will cost you. I found some lids on the internet - just google "barrel lid" or "drum lids". I used a metal lid so i could bolt a chain to it and attach it to the barrel to keep someone from stealing it. It fits over the top of the barrel with a 3" lip around the edge to overlap the top of the barrel. Heres a link to find the metal one i used.
Then a 3/4" locking ball valve found here...part number 4629K14. I used a locking valve because i had this nightmare that my barrel was full (55 gallons) and a drunk vagrant was messing around behind the restaurant and turned the valve just before he passes out...recreating the Exxon Valdez incedent...then the restaurant called me the next day to come and bring a HAZMAT team to clean it up. So i sleep better with a lock on it.
Make a stand however you can engineer one but make it so the barrel isn't easily turned over - again, nightmares of the Exxon Valdez. Use a can of spray paint and some stencils to label the barrel :Waste cooking oil" Put your name and phone number on it with a Sharpie and call it good.
These are definitely the easiest ways to collect oil to carry it home. It should be mess free, IF you don't overfill a jug when using the barrel method and be sure to put the lids on the jugs tight...i had one turn over in the truck and the lid was loose, and it leaked about a quart of the nasty stuff in the bed of my truck.
Hint: Dawn dish washing soap and hot water is the BEST way to get it off when you need to clean up a spill. I have tryed several soaps and Dawn far outperformed the rest.
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I went and bought 7 clear/white 55 gallon barrals for $10.00 3qch. I dropped them off at 3 Chinese rest. in my area. I spoke to them about pick up. There only question was that is was free for me to pick up the oil. I drive by the areas often to monitor the oil. I am able to get about 25 gallons a week on average. Two of the locations keep the barrells outside. I do not pump all the oil out of the drum. I will leave about 15 to 20 gallons in it so it would be hard to steal. I figured that every inch is 2 gallons and the oils weight is about 8lbs per gallon. I store the oil in seperate drums behind the shed. I don't mix the oil I pick with other locations. I was informed that I should not mix. I am going to try to mix them next week and see what will happen if anything will happen.

I am not making bio. I am makinbg something different. I also have not heard of anyone else making it this way either. I saw an add on Google for - make fuel for .64 cents.

A week ago I was towing my enclosed trailer back from atco Raceway in NJ and lost power. I pulled over and replaced the filter on the frame rail. The truck started and only ran for about 1,000 feet and then just stalled without restarting. I had the truck towed and the trailer towed home by a friend. I checked the fuel pressure and it was all over. So, I have a bad pump. How common is it for a pump on this type of truck to go bad? I think it is not common. No one had it in stock. I then noticed the white puff of smoke for the exhaust. Now I am thinking OH GREAT MORE PROBLEMS. My wife is asking me if I created the problem by try to save money - more like nagging. As I read on this site, An EGR will cause the white smoke. I removed the EGR and cleaned it. It did not look to bad. Normal carbon build up and the valve was moving freely. I reinstalled it and drove the truck. It was fine for about an hour and then everything started again - the fuel pressue dropped and the truck would stall.

If anyone has heard of the method I am using or has any comments - PLEASE feel free to post them. I am in the early stages of working with alterative fuel and use all the feedback as possible. My future plans is to make true bio and run that in my truck as a 100% mix.

Thanks for reading.

PS - with the mixture I am making I had no mileage change but I did notice a small drop in power.
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98- go to Diesel Forum - The Diesel and check out the bio forum.

search that forum for dse... lots of info on it. And there's even 1 or 2 guys that love it.
Thanks for the info. :)
I can lift a drum with 15 to 20 gallons in it from the ground to the bed of my truck. I've done it a bunch of times in the last 3 years!!:nod:

As far as DieselSecret the secret is out IT IS TO DRY TO WORK AS A DIESEL FUEL!!
What do you mean DRY? If a diesel can run on straight vegi oil why not with some kerosen and gas? I am not trying to make this into a debate, but from using it for a few weeks w/o any problems other then a fuel pump. The fuel pump was my fault 100%. I made 2 batches too thick. I also have an EGR problem too. Truck is at the dealer now. I will wait for the call tom. I dropped it off today.

I know some if not most people can lift a drum with 15 to 20 gallons of oil. I also do it all day (Heating & A/C). I load 3 ton A/C units into a van all day by myself.

As I said in the other post, I am open for all thoughts. Thanks, Maybe more will jump in with there ideas. :)

I am reading and thinking of a desighn for a bio set up in my shed now. I am glad that I did try this method. If I did not try it, I would have been thinking how it would have worked.
There are so many ways of make a reactor or something similar.
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The secret they leave out is that the factory fuel pump can't handle the higher viscosity. Your pump is probably burned up, and your new one will probably go just as fast. For that matter, I doubt you would see a consistent fuel pressure reading if you checked your new pump after you get it in, which would explain your loss of power. This will eventually kill the injectors, and possibly coke the cylinders enough to make your rings stick. I have heard of a couple people that swear by DSE Blends, but I would like to hear their opinion on it after about 50k miles. I would also like to see DSE do a tear down after 50k and see what the combustion chamber looks like. Maybe a compression test as well.
Here is a update. I replaced the pump and it did not last long. I then installed a FASS 150 fuel system and have been making Bio.

This was a win - win for me. I am not looking back and only looking forward. Using bio while towing a 16,000lbs - Goose neck has been easy. The cost of making bio is .58 cents a gallon and the truck has been running great. The process will take time - pick up the oil, process, filter and re filter.

I make the fuel to tow the trailer 2,000+ mile trips.

The stock pump would never be able to handle the WVO. I did notice that the stock pump did not like the Bio either. The Ford pumps are designed for diesel fuel use only.
The st

The money I have invested to run Bio, I have recovered in the savings of making my own fuel.

I feel using WVO was not the right choice fro what I need it for.
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