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Discussion Starter #1
As the title states my 2004 6.0 e350 stalled on the highway today. I had been driving for about 30 minutes when it happened. It started losing power, started sputtering and then it shut off. I tried starting it after I got towed home and it will crank but not start.
I read the codes with my Maxilink scanner and this is what I got: P0261, 64, 67, 70, 73, 76, 79 and 82. That's a code for every injector. Also, P1464, p0611, p0488, p1334, p2290, p0683, p0678, and p0672.
A little background- The van sat for about a week while I was on vacation and the batteries died because I left my dash cam plugged in. I put them on a charger overnight and the voltage was good this morning. It started right up even though it was close to freezing. I checked and cleaned the egr when I did the oil and fuel filters about 3 months ago, less than 2,000 miles since. There was no smoke while driving.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to mention that my scanner can do an injector test and they all checked out fine. I had the key in the on position and I could hear the clicking as each one was tested.
 

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2003 F350 4 door, soon to be 4.5 door...maybe
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Check your Ficm voltage, and ficm sync. Getting a code for every injector, I'd start there. Then verify all your other basic 6.0 stuff, oil pressure, etc etc.
 

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Do you have an aftermarket "high voltage" FICM? If you don't, the P0611 is almost always a failed FICM (assuming you have everything plugged in properly).

You also have a code that is almost always a failed GPCM.

Get those resolved and then look into the P2290.

Make sure that your batteries (load test them after charging them) and alternator are in good working order also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Check your Ficm voltage, and ficm sync. Getting a code for every injector, I'd start there. Then verify all your other basic 6.0 stuff, oil pressure, etc etc.
Is the oil pressure supposed to move when cranking or does it only raise once it starts up? Mine does not move during cranking.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tested the FICM and one pin got 48v, the second got 11v, the third and fourth got 0v. Is that always a bad FICM or could something else cause the low reading? I want to check everything I can before ordering parts.
Do you have an aftermarket "high voltage" FICM? If you don't, the P0611 is almost always a failed FICM (assuming you have everything plugged in properly).

You also have a code that is almost always a failed GPCM.

Get those resolved and then look into the P2290.

Make sure that your batteries (load test them after charging them) and alternator are in good working order also.
Everything is stock as far as I'm aware. I know the batteries are 2 years old and I've never had a cranking issue until I let them discharge with my dashcam. I'll remove them and make sure they're both good. I had them plugged into a charger overnight and the voltage gauge was in the normal range while driving. Unfortunately I can't test the alternator without removing it since it won't start.
 

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2003 F350 4 door, soon to be 4.5 door...maybe
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I have an 09 E350, my gauge didnt move while cranking either. As per your ficm, don't attempt to buy a power supply board for it... to me it sounds like the logic side is fried. Send it out to a rebuilders, or buy from Ford. Also with your alternator, look into this : our Van's were avalible with a dual alternator set up, if you order the lower one for the ambulance package, change the pulley with your current alternator, then ya got yourself a nice 230amp alternator instead of the weeny little 135er. Low amps and low voltage wreaks havoc on our electrical. GPCM is super easy to do. Its sitting on top of the drives valve cover, flexible 12mm and 10mm ratchet wrenches are your friends, the insulation gonna suck.
 

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The FICM is what clicks the injector by command from the PCM -- seems to me if the test is able to click the injectors, then the FICM is working

Cam/Crank Sync and FICM sync both have to hit before the injectors will fire -- those readings need to be verified

The P0611 code is troubling, that usually means the logic board in the FICM is fried
your low voltage will play havoc on the FICM and PCM -- best to always be sure the batteries are fully charged before cranking the engine
 
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Did you test FICM voltage KOEO, cranking, and then running? All 3 tests need to be done. Failure can show up on any of the 3. And you only need to test the pin closest to the driver's side fender well on a 4 pin FICM. Don't let the lead touch the case while you're testing though...

POOF! :D


-jokester
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Did you test FICM voltage KOEO, cranking, and then running? All 3 tests need to be done. Failure can show up on any of the 3. And you only need to test the pin closest to the driver's side door on a 4 pin FICM. Don't let the lead touch the case while you're testing though...

POOF! :D


-jokester
I did not test it while cranking since I thought it was only supposed to be tested with the key in the "on" position. I wouldn't be able to test while running since it won't start.
 

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2003 F350 4 door, soon to be 4.5 door...maybe
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You know, can you maybe just quickly check your ipr duty cycle and hpop pressures while cranking....man it would suck to dump all that money on getting the ficm and the gpcm dealt with only to find ya gotta go chasing after a leak too. I've made that mistake of only addressing issues as they appear instead of painting a full picture before I made any financial/time investmenty desicions.
 

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Will your scanner not read the FICM voltage from the data port?

if not then download ForScan

 

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The P2290 code sort of indicates he will have an issue with the high pressure oil system.
 

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2003 F350 4 door, soon to be 4.5 door...maybe
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Yeah, if that's an early build 04, those pumps had their issues. Welp, verify ipr is doing its job then, air test. Bugger with the van is the remote oil filter. On a truck, just take off the filter cap and listen for the gurgling from the filter housing. I hope it's something super simple like a blown out stc fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just wanted to give a quick update. Took both batteries to get tested today. One is at 90% and the second is at 89% so it seems that's not the issue.
I don't know how to test the hpop so I'm going to cross my fingers and get the FICM to see if that fixes it.
 

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2003 F350 4 door, soon to be 4.5 door...maybe
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So there's 2 methods, both involve an air test. I feel like all I do here is talk about air testing lol. First methood, go find an IPR air test fitting, this screws into the ipr port and on the Van's it's super easy to get to. I'm sure theres a vendor on this forum that sells those. Unscrew the oil filter, Install that and put air to the system, about 120-150psi. With a piece of hose, garden hose of larger, listen to the oil filter housing. If your hear gurgling, the pump is out of it. Second, if you take the pump out, you can put shop air into the supply port and turn the pump by hand, no air should leak out if it's good. A little bit of leakage is ok as long as its consistant. If the hiss changes in tone as you turn the pump, the pumps no good.
 

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2003 F350 4 door, soon to be 4.5 door...maybe
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And I'm telling you now, if you find yourself going after the hpop, do the stand pipes, dummy plugs, nipple cup seals, and the injector orings. It's an 04, I wouldn't trust any of those. Buy once cry once. Also if you're doing the work yourself, drop the engine mounts and lower the engine. You'll thank me later.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have a question about the FICM. I saw the video jokester00 posted. In that one they only test one of the screws. The first one I saw they tested all. If I'm getting 48+ volts at the first screw then could it be a good FICM?
 

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2003 F350 4 door, soon to be 4.5 door...maybe
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If you're getting 48v key on engine off, that's a start but only for the power supply board. That reading may also change while running and under WOT conditions. But, that's just the power supply board, we think it's your logic board that's fried :( .
 
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