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Vacuum pump failed so I am upgrading the turbo

3063 Views 14 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  JSchuricht
My vacuum pump failed and the while its apart list has led to turbo, injectors and HPOP.
Truck is a 95 F250, ZF6 swap with 800FT/LB clutch, e-fuel, gauges, down pipe, bellowed up pipes, intake.
I am thinking 180/30 injectors, Adrenaline or T500 HPOP, new HPOP lines due to age, head studs, springs, rods and maybe injector cups so I can use different coolant.

Where I am stuck is deciding on the turbo.
I have some parts collected over the years that could effect the turbo choice:
SD intercooler, E99 spyder, SD intercooler pipes, OBS to SD intercooler pipes, blown 38r turbo with aftermarket wheel.
I also have a 2000 7.3 with 238/100's and a 38r and am not opposed to using its turbo and plumbing to upgrade the OBS then putting something better in the SD.
Another option is KC turbo which is near by, leaning towards the TP38r which isn't in stock with the .84 housing. My hangup there is I can't find a good pic of the outlet so I am not sure if the EBPV can be reused or if I have to delete. I do like using it as an exhaust brake.

Low effort option, KC TP38r, SD innercooler, E99 spyder, OBS pipes.
Medium effort option, repair extra 38r turbo with KC center section, buy SD spyder, SD up pipes and whatever else is different.
Maximum effort option, rob 38r and SD plumbing from 2000 truck, install on 95 truck then upgrade SD truck with T4 setup.

What would you do?
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My vacuum pump failed.

What would you do?
Replace the vacuum pump.






What do you use the truck for? What are your goals?

@[email protected]
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Replace the vacuum pump.






What do you use the truck for? What are your goals?

@[email protected]

No fun in that. Vacuum pump is getting deleted, hydroboost going in and upgraded PS pump is leading me to figure out intercooler plumbing before making new PS lines.

The truck is for fun, rarely tow with this one and mainly use it to commute in. No particular goals, just a bit more power without needing to upgrade the 800ft/lb clutch again and minimizing spool time.
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I think the low effort option is good in my book. @CloverLeafFarm may have some suggestions.

Not much can make the OBS "fast" but it will be fun.
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I would go with low effort except use kc turbo turbine wheel/billet wheel/360 bearing kit and .84 turbine housing with ebpv delete to rebuild the obs turbo. As for fast, with 180/30s you won't be able to shift gears fast enough to keep up but once you get into 5th and overdrive it will be PDQ

Forgot to add if you really want to keep the ebpv the exhaust outlet bolts to the .84 housing just like oem
I would do the low level effort and install this hpop and turbo with 160/30's. HPOP is depending on if you have a later 95, but not, you may need the 94.5-95 pump.



Since you have e-fuel, these hpop lines.


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Engine S/N starts with a 0 so I have the old HPOP.

@[email protected] Any particular reason for recommending the KC300X journal bearing over the TP38r ball bearing turbo. I had checked out links you posted elsewhere for the TP38r but its not on your site anymore.

Also, the hpop lines you linked are for the SD but from the pics look like threaded fittings vs quick connect on the SD. Taking a guess but are the SD lines you linked to compatible with the OBS perhaps using a different port that is accessible with the mechanical pump and bowl deleted? Are any different fittings needed to make it work?
Engine S/N starts with a 0 so I have the old HPOP.

@[email protected] Any particular reason for recommending the KC300X journal bearing over the TP38r ball bearing turbo.
I'm willing to bet because you can easily rebuild the journal bearing turbo. Ball bearing turbo not so easy.
I'm willing to bet because you can easily rebuild the journal bearing turbo. Ball bearing turbo not so easy.
That is exactly why, and their newer journal bearing chargers perform nearly as well.

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Turns out the TP38r is out of stock and not coming back per KC. Reading up on the KC300X isn't showing a lot of favorable reviews with manual transmissions. Now I am leaning towards T4 with a S364.5SXE with the .91 housing. More money than I would have liked but I do like what I am reading with low RPM spooling.

My thoughts now are the SD intercooler, S364.5SXE/Irate T4 kit with plenums and boots, Adrenaline HPOP, 180/30 Rosewood injectors, glow plugs, studs, springs, push rods, injector cups, HPOP lines.

Should make for a fun grocerie getter. Any recomendations on things I should change or that I missed on that list?
4
Decided on the Riffraff plenums and finally started installing today. The driver side 1/8npt to -6jic elbow from the IDP efuel kit doesn't quite clear. Long 1/8npt to -6jic 90 fittings are hard to find, in case anyone else comes looking, pn 2501L-06-02 is the only one I found so far. Hopefully it fits otherwise I am stacking adapters or remaking the IDP fuel line for the driver side.

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We run into that issue all the time with that, so I designed our intake plenums to work with everyone's fuel and hpop line kits.

Here's a like for others reading this thread.



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Didn't realize your plenums were out yet. Would have been tempting to go that route if I had known about the clearance issue. Only issue I see is the empty hole with a 8 bolt head.
That doesn't affect anything.

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Not so sure about that... Here is a pic of my passenger side 8 bolt head with a crude drawing to demonstrate extra holes parallel with the bolt holes. If you take a straight line across the edge of the manifold it intersects the bolt holes. A hole in the plenum parallel with the others would be floating over the open area at the top and have little to no metal backing it up at the bottom. That's asking a lot from rtv. If you go back far enough where there were not many choices of plenums, people were welding up the extra hole on 10 bolt plenums to work on 8 bolt heads.

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