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Take the panel off under the steering wheel, then crawl under the dash on ur back look above the parking brake. They are wrapped in all 4 together with foil tape stating what they are for. I believe on page 115 it states the color codes for each switch. I installed my horns today. Works nicely with the switches, num 1 turns my normal horn control to the train horn. Num 2 turns my compressor on and off. I highly recommend using the switch for this and not having it run just because the truck is on. The system loses air pressure and the compressor kicks on every 5 minutes or so. I think I'm going to replace the hoses and fittings on mine with better quality ones. Enjoy ur horns I had a blast driving thru the park scaring the hell out of people.
 

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Take the panel off under the steering wheel, then crawl under the dash on ur back look above the parking brake. They are wrapped in all 4 together with foil tape stating what they are for. I believe on page 115 it states the color codes for each switch. I installed my horns today. Works nicely with the switches, num 1 turns my normal horn control to the train horn. Num 2 turns my compressor on and off. I highly recommend using the switch for this and not having it run just because the truck is on. The system loses air pressure and the compressor kicks on every 5 minutes or so. I think I'm going to replace the hoses and fittings on mine with better quality ones. Enjoy ur horns I had a blast driving thru the park scaring the hell out of people.
Can you give me the run down on how you wired your train horn to the main horn via the upfitter switches?? Thats awesome :thumb:

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hey pipeliner thanks for the help. my tank holds air pretty well and rarely comes without provoking it. I have the air fittings that they sent me with a little teflon tape.
 

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What brand air system are you guys running,and do you have the tank as well with guages inside
 

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i'm running horn blasters. In the instructions it tells you to install toggle switches that are provided in the kit. Instead of using the toggle switches, I used the uplifter switches.

Here is a picture of how I mounted my horns.
 

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Do you mind me asking how you wired anything to the cab? I am still trying to figure out what is my best option WITHOUT drilling.
 

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I just zip tied the wires to anything existing. There is enough crap on the truck to tie to you shouldn't need to drill holes until you mount the horns.
 

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But where did you route the cables through to the cab? Through the window, firewall, etc?

sorry, I got ya now. There is a large bank of wires in a rubber boot that runs thru the firewall, I took a stiff wire and pushed it thru the the boot. Once you crawl under the steering wheel you will see what I'm talkin about.:thumb:
 

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Take the panel off under the steering wheel, then crawl under the dash on ur back look above the parking brake. They are wrapped in all 4 together with foil tape stating what they are for. I believe on page 115 it states the color codes for each switch. I installed my horns today. Works nicely with the switches, num 1 turns my normal horn control to the train horn. Num 2 turns my compressor on and off. I highly recommend using the switch for this and not having it run just because the truck is on. The system loses air pressure and the compressor kicks on every 5 minutes or so. I think I'm going to replace the hoses and fittings on mine with better quality ones. Enjoy ur horns I had a blast driving thru the park scaring the hell out of people.[/QUOT
Are the upfitter switches already grounded and fuse in line,so you only connect hot lead from say some running lights to desired upfitter wire?:confused:
 

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Installed some running lights and would like to utilize the upfitter switches.
I took the ground from both lights,wired them together then grounded to frame. Took the lead from both lights and wired them together then ran it
to yellow wire thats in a group of four wires(yellow,green,purple,brown)
located at bottom left of steering column. Can anyone tell me if this is the correct procedure,because I don't have light.:tard:
 

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You need to run them via a relay! Here's a link to the write up I did on my lights, lots of pics! If you don't you risk blowing fuses or worse melting wires and causing major issues!

Pass Thru/Upfitter/Off Road light install (PICS) - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Read your write up. Very nice job,but I guess I'm really confused.Isn't my manuel telling me that there are 4 relays already in place for the up-fitter swiches,and these switches are hot.So why do I need wires going to the battery:dunno:.My apologies for being so thick.I do appreciate your help
 

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I saw that also.... The two 25A #1&#2 look like they do use a standard 12v relay, but looking a the gauge of wire, it looks too small to power large lights. IMO. The relays run $5-6 so for under $15 I think it's good insurance! If you can find someone that "knows" that would be great info, but all the dealers I visited were not very knowledgable about the upfitter switches and nobody knew where the pass thru wires were. I found them from reading the ford body builder PDF's and hunting for them myself. My setup came with a wiring harness, so there was no reason not to use them.

Regarding your lights not working, the best I can do is suggest the following, but you've probably already done it..

1) The truck has to be running
2) Check the power with meter
3) Check ground / Try different ground
4) Check all fuse locations (I stroked when I flipped the switch, then hit myself after I realized I didn't replace the fuse Duh!)
5) If that doesn't work, use a fused 12v+ and test lights.... I ran 12V+/- straight from the battery. When I installed light kits on bikes this was the only way allowed, claimed it was the cleanest and avoided issues with bad grounds and tapping OEM wiring (warranty issues).

Good Luck!
 

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I found this PDF on installing the upfitters, it does show the relays... So from what I can tell on pg3 the switches run to the relay and then out to the blunt cut wires. So, it appears that if your amp pull would be under 25 and the wire gauge is within acceptable parameters for what your running, you would be ok, BUT... The gauge looks too small for my liking. There are tons of articles on which gauge you should use, I followed this guys recommendations Selecting Wire Size, safe Vs Sorry..
 

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I agree with what you are saying about the small wire size,It looks like communication wire compared to 12 guage.Yeah tomorrow I'll check power at lights and just try to to chase it down.I was thinking the up-fitter switches deleted me installing relays, fuses and running lead to battery or fuse box. Thanks a lot,
Your truck is superduty bad
 

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I had a ground issue,had to get rid of a little paint.:doh:.I wired the lights the way I explained earlier,turned on ignition,flipped up the switch and the lights were on:woot: Here's some pics


 

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can you do the hi-idle mod on the 6.7's??

Or is it different??
 
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