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Lt. Negativity
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Why dont you try talking to your tuner, and see if you can have them write you an emission tune just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Before I took anything off I used PB blaster on all of the exhaust bolts, turbo bolts and alt bolts. I sprayed them more than 3 times over an hour. The bolt sizes are 10mm, 11mm, and 13mm. That is all that is needed. Although I had 4 different wrenches for each size because every bolt position is different :/
You do not need 4 different wrenches but it made things go by faster.



The intake tube and boost tube need to be taken off and set to the side. And the small coolant hose. I cleaned them inside and out before I put them back on. I used belt spray on the boost tube to keep it from blowing off even though they have the notch to secure them. And they slipped on nice and easy with the spray.

Cover the turbine opening, I used duct tape.




Remove the air pressure sensor bracket.




Take 2 out of the 3 bolts to the alt. This keeps the belt on the alt and allows the turbo to be removed. There is a bolt on the left side of the alt. I did not remove it because I had enough room but if you want to remove it there is no issue. I removed that plastic cover at the top of the picture for room and tied off the electrical cord.




Remove the ring-clamps. The bolt is 11mm allong with the other ring-clamps. They were soaked with PB Blaster so they eventualy came off.




The bolts to the turbo were easy to find but very tough to loosen. Very tough. They are 10mm. I used a normal wrench for the rear, A socket wrench for the bolt that is on the passengers side and a U shaped wrench for bolt that was on the drivers side. This one was the hardest to get off that it hurt.




The turbo feed tube has 2 bolts that came off easy and the drain tube just has an o-ring so it just slid off. But it is fixed so don't damage it, that can be very easy to do with the turbo being juggled around.

The turbo is very heavy. I was walking all over the eng trying to pull it out with out hurting anything. It will catch on everything but it will come out.

Laying allot of towels helps to rest or brace you self on :thumb:



On the exhaust mount for the EGR cooler there is a gasket. Be aware of it so you wont lose it.
If there was another gasket I did not see it but I did use high temp gasket sealer on the connection to the DP and the turbo, the connection on the Y pipe to the turbo and the connection on the EGR cooler and the Up-Pipe regardless if there was a metal gasket or not. I did not want any leaks.

I greased the ring-clamps so there was no binding or difficulty for them to synch on along with the threads. I did not reuse the old nuts for the ring-clamps because they were aluminum :/ I went to ACE Hardware and got 3 metal nuts.




Stock Turbo size.





That is the rough cut, I eventualy removed all of it. Same goes for the picture below.





I welded the clamps on only these parts of the clamp. I did not feel that they were very Strong. As you can see they are only heat press connections.




The washer fit perfectly. I did not fully block the flowor exhsut pressure for I had fear of a Flow Trouble Code. I have to smog my truck. If I did not have to smog the truck then or knew for a fact that I would not get a code then I would fully block the exhaust flow.

Thank god I do not have on with this!! :thumb: I have driven the truck 30 miles and no code. I have reved the eng, wot, normal driving, and pluged the egr vlave back in with the same and still no codes :crazy: I am happy.








Here are the tools I used. 10mm 11mm and 13mm were all of the sizes. I had an air saw, and that special drill bit that allows me to cut sideways. To do this you need allot of socket extensions to get to some of the bolts and nuts. And that orange extension had a magnet at the end of it but I broke it trying to get a droped nut on top of the eng :/


I am very pleased with how my truck now preforms :thumb:

If I did not mansion some thing please ask away :)
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Why dont you try talking to your tuner, and see if you can have them write you an emission tune just a thought.
Because of the risk. I do not want to do it all over again by fully blocking the egr system if it does not work out with codes.
 

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Great write up! I'm doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
There are 2 parts you should be careful of, 1 is losing a gasket from the exhaust pipes and 2 is preventing damage while moving the turbo out and in its mount. I suggest an extra hand for moving the turbo even though I did it by my self.


O and TAKE YOU TIME :thumb:
 

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Do you really have to take the turbo out?
 

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I wonder why other people aren't doing this. It's a great idea, I think I'll start on mine next week. I think I'll use a dremmel to cut out the scoop.
 

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This seems like a good fix. I just want to get rid of that stupid scoop. If I pave right over the hole, the egr cooler wont over heat correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Well if you block the egr cooler from the exhaust gas flow, it will keep a large majority of heat away from the coolant, engine.
 

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SmokerSteve - great idea and nice write up.

Now that you did both, removed the PS inner fender AND the turbo, would you now just advise to remove the turbo and forgo the inner fender removal??

Also, why would you go to all the trouble of tearing down the rig to get to the EGR cooler again to remove the 1/4" washer hole with as little exhaust that is passing through it? Is it because it will still continue to carbon up the egr valve, albeit much more slowly?

Last, you indicated that "if you knew" you would not throw a code, you would block it off completely. Am I right in my studies to say that it is established pretty much that if we block the port fully i.e. delete, then we know we will get a code on the 06?
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
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SmokerSteve - great idea and nice write up. Thank you!

Now that you did both, removed the PS inner fender AND the turbo, would you now just advise to remove the turbo and forgo the inner fender removal??)I did not remove the fender, only the turbo)

Also, why would you go to all the trouble of tearing down the rig to get to the EGR cooler again to remove the 1/4" washer hole with as little exhaust that is passing through it? Is it because it will still continue to carbon up the egr valve, albeit much more slowly?I only did the work once and I am leaving it the way it is. My egr system was untouched except I had and still have the egr valve electrically unplugged. The reason why I did not delete the egr system and chose to cut the scoop and welded a washer in there is to still pass smog. I have read that if the system is deleted it will trip a "Flow" code. I will then not pass smog. The 1/4" hole is just too keep the code away. I also have the egr valve unplugged, preventing exhaust flow. That trips 2 codes. But I can plug it back in with no codes at all.

Last, you indicated that "if you knew" you would not throw a code, you would block it off completely. Yes. Am I (including myself)right in my studies to say that it is established pretty much that if we block the port fully i.e. delete, then we know we will get a code on the 06?So far. I decided to not block it 100% when I originaly did the work because I would not want to do it again incase I got an "EGR Flow" code.
Let me know If I did not answer your questions properly :thumb:
 

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Dude - if there was anything improper in the conversation, it would have been me asking the questions!

Okay, so you keep the flow with the hole, and that is only so that when you DO plug the egr back in, you won't throw a code, right? It's all a readiness plan for when you have to get smog tested if I am digesting it all correctly. Because I think you are indicating that when you unplug the egr, of course it throws codes, right? You just ignore them, right? And you run unplugged in order to stop the flow of exhaust altogether? Or am I turning all of your work into a ball of twine?:dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Dude - if there was anything improper in the conversation, it would have been me asking the questions!

Okay, so you keep the flow with the hole, and that is only so that when you DO plug the egr back in, you won't throw a code, right?(yes. With the scoop cut out and the 1/4" hole I do not get a code with the egr valve plugged in) It's all a readiness plan for when you have to get smog tested if I am digesting it all correctly. Because I think you are indicating that when you unplug the egr, of course it throws codes, right? (I get 2 codes when I electronically unplug the egr valve.) You just ignore them, right?(Yes. They do not effect my truck) And you run unplugged in order to stop the flow of exhaust altogether? (Yes. This keeps the exhasut from getting in the intake and the intake air in the intake. Since I have the scoop cut out and the valve unplugged, the exhasut just passes over the hole that would normally enter the egr cooler, and goes to the turbo with out iteruption.) Or am I turning all of your work into a ball of twine? :dunno:
Comments^^^^^^^^^^
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I just talked to innovative a few minutes ago. He said that early 2005 trucks do not have the "egr flow" code from blocking the system. 2005.5 and up do have the "egr flow" code. He also told me that tuning can prevent codes from coming up. I wish i knew that when I purchased my tunes... If I want to change my tunes for this he will charge me for it. I will have to pay the price for brand new tunes...

I am satisfied with my work and what I did. I will just leave my tunes they way that they are...
 

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I still had codes with innovatives tunes even after I asked for the egr delete while it didn't throw a CEL when running the tune it did have codes so I went with gearheads and those blocked everything and ran better to boot
 
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