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Discussion Starter #1
I was reading on the Ford Truch Enthusiasts site yesterday that you can unplug the EGR solinoid and it will cause the EGR to stay closed and this is will help prevent an EGR from failing?

Anyone herd of this?

Basicaly the threads i read said you unplug it when the truck has been off for at least 4 hours and the valve will be in the closed position. Then once you start the truck it will throw 1 to 4 codes for the EGR valve but no CEL unless its a Cal emissioned truck. You can clear the codes and run the truck with no real change in performance. Some report better throttle responce and .5 mpg better and other report no changes but several said they have been running there trucks like this 20k+ miles with no issues.

The EGR valve only opens from Idle to about 70% throttle after that it closes due to more exhaust pressure then it can over come to add EGR gasses back into the intake.

Anyone enlighten on this idea?

I tried it today before comming to work but i unpluged the Variable Vane solinoid to my turbo by mistake so i basically had no boost for the 30 miles to work but i did still get 17mpg. <city/ highway>

Im not having any issues with my EGR yet but i was thinking if i can do this till i get a delete kit then i can have a little more peace of mind.
 

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Unplugging the Valve can cause your truck to enter a 'limp mode' under some strategies and model years. It is unknown what specific ones will have this problem, and which will not, but multiple people have cited problems building boost and with fan clutch engagement with the valve unplugged.

You can try it and see if it doesn't cause any problems, but be aware that it might. If it does, simply plug it back in and see if they go away.

You can also disable the valve's operation with a tuner, while still leaving it plugged in.
 

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I read those same threads so I did it. But, it seemed to reduce my MPGs and increase slightly the spread between EOT and ECT which is not good. It also through 2 codes. When I mentioned here what I did they told me that I should reconnect it because the computer needs its input to do other things. You know, electronic stuff! :) I THINK it is better to do the EGR cooler delete but leave the EGR connected, especially in emissions states like I am. But I am not totally sure of that so more investigation is needed.
Paul
 

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I have had mine unplugged and welded shut for about 2 yrs now and haven't had any issues. I do have an 04, which one of the years that is known not to throw a CEL or have issues with it unplugged.
 

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At on point I did the same thing until I heard about these issues I also noticed with mine the vgt did not open and close at idle like it should to help the vanes from seizing
 

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installed the liberator EGR delete kit a long time ago, I left the solenoid in the intake manifold but did not connect it electrically. Had it this way for almost 1 year, then bought an edge insight and scanned for codes, had 2 codes related to EGR. determined they were from having the EGR solenoid in an open circuit and computer knows that. So i called Liberator up and asked them if I should plug the EGR back in, they stated yes, it will make the computer happy even thought the solenoid is doing nothing because there is no more exhaust there.

anywho......after i did that it seemed that my truck ran stronger and smoother with better mileage. So my advice leave it plugged in.

want to get rid of injecting exhuast in your intake, GET DELETED!
 

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It's your truck, do what you want to it. But I'm gonna recommend that you plug the EGR valve back in electronically.

You may think that there are no issues, but without a good scan tool like Ford's IDS or AE, you may never know what's going on with your motor when you unplug the EGR valve. So why take a chance and screw something up.

Here are two links for your enjoyment.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/972688-side-effect-of-disconneting-egr-valve.html

http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102838
 

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No this will not help your cooler live longer. With the valve unpluged there willbe some issues with the VGT vane sweep as well as cooling fan RPM. The best plan is to delete / weld the EGR cooler then leave the valve plugged in so the PCM can move it as a dummy and be happy.
 

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I would leave it in and find an old EGR valve and connect it while not in the manifold.
Just one more idea for the 6.0L.

Or connect the good one and install the bad one in the manifold.

I have mine plugged in with a plugged cooler and its been a good performer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the replys guys. I really was lokking for advise as to what i should do and i knew this was the right place to be. Several people that i really value there thoughts posted and im going to leave everything pluged in.

Yesterday it was very frustrating driving to work with no turbo as the truck constantly downshifted and blew black smoke to try to stay at 60 threw the hills and winding roads i drive to work. This morning i literaly climed up into the hood to plug it back in lol.

I guess ill have to start shopping for a EGR Delte kit at a reasonable price to install. I havnt had any issues with it yet but its always in the back of my mind when i tow things. So fare i think all i have to fix is the EGR, and then Studs if and when they ever go bad. I run a mild tune designed for stock head bolts and it run lower head pressure then the engine does in stock mode. So hopefully the head bolts last me a few more years lol.
 

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I am running an aluminum plug sourced from ebay for under a 100$ and have my EGR valve plugged in, with my EGR unplugged my 04 did trigger a code. A metal slug between the up pipe and the EGR cooler blocks that end, and a removed throttle butterfly completes the no delete delete.
 

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I am running custom tunes from Quick Tricks that keeps the EGR closed, should I assume that it is basiclly the same as unpluging it? I wonder this because when I first start the engine the exhaust makes a different deeper noise for a few seconds.
 

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I didnt read all the post so Im sure someone put something up.... Its the cooler that is really the failing piece! Gold coolant and or dirty cooling system plug the oil cooler, eventually coolant makes it through, his a super hot dry EGR cooler and BAMN, SPIT, PUFF. Your cooler ruptures, steam washes a cylinder or a few and lifts a head.

I did a completed delete so I dont have to think about it!

Again, sorry if someone said this already, I am working! lol
 

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I am running custom tunes from Quick Tricks that keeps the EGR closed, should I assume that it is basiclly the same as unpluging it? I wonder this because when I first start the engine the exhaust makes a different deeper noise for a few seconds.
Yes and no, under high boost demands, the boost can blow open the valve. Don't get me wrong, it's a effective way to prevent exhaust gasses entering the intake, not the best, but effective.
 
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