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I have got a ton of info from this forum to use on my F350 in the past. Thought I finally make an account, and start a thread. Here goes


I bought my "new to me" F350 6.0L with 155K miles, and for the last 3 months I have been fixing all the known problems with this motor / truck. Now at 165k miles I have noticed a ton off oil in the CAC tubes when I recently replaced the stock units to a RiffRaff set. I confirmed with the previous owner its still using the original turbo, and its never been cleaned. Looks like it needs to be replaced.

I went to the local junk yard and found a E350 with a 6.0, and pulled the turbo off to rebuild. I did this so I dont have any down time. I paid 75$ for it and lucked out as it's a 2004 turbo, which means it has the larger compressor and turbine (same as 2003) but uses the 13 blade to quite things down.

I judt put a KC Turbos Extreme Rebuild kit in the 2004 turbo, and went with there Billet turbo wheel, just to try and get a little more out of the stock turbo. I replaced the unison ring and vanes as well. I also got the updated oil feed and drain tube from RockAuto for a decent price.

I figured while I had the turbo off I might as well replace the IPR valve, and was able to pick a new motorcraft unit for a very decent price from rockauto as well. At the end of it all, I will be doing an oil change to Rotella T6 and new filter.

If got everything I need, and am about to start ripping this thing apart. Am I missing anything? Any tips or tricks from the 6.0 experts?
 

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If you watch this video, you won't go wrong...


It's not as daunting as it looks.

-jokester
 

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Yep, it's really not that bad. I did have to use a floor jack to line up the downpipe, and having someone there during reassembly can be helpful
 

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I hate taking the turbo off, and hate even more putting it back in. So, I’d consider things that may need the turbo out like oil cooler, if deltas warrant it, or EGR to a BPD model.
 

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i literally just pulled my turbo, cleaned the unison ring and vanes and put it back in. i even followed the instructions from that exact same video posted here. i was pretty nervous cause i've never done this before but looking back, it was fairly straight forward.

only thing i think you'd need is the turbo replacement kit (o-rings, gaskets, etc).
 

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i literally just pulled my turbo, cleaned the unison ring and vanes and put it back in. i even followed the instructions from that exact same video posted here. i was pretty nervous cause i've never done this before but looking back, it was fairly straight forward.

only thing i think you'd need is the turbo replacement kit (o-rings, gaskets, etc).
Yup, I think it's a pretty easy to pull the turbo. Just takes time. Autozone sells the mahl turbo kit for $6.
If you have a hard time lining up the up-pipe, loosen it up from the manifolds, then set the clamp to the turbo, then tighten the up-pipes. IIRC, I torqued the turbo down after the pipes were set.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got the job done yesterday.

I ended up doing a little more than just the turbo. I installed the updated oil drain tube, oil feed line, new Motorcraft IPR, fuel filters, KC Turbo billet wheel, new Garret unison ring, KC Turbo Extreme 360 rebuild kit, and oil and filter change with Rotella T6. I had trouble with the IPR valve actually, when I pulled the old one off the filter screen stayed inside the HPOP. I ended it taking it out with a set of long thin needle nose pliers, and it came out in 3 pieces. Took me 20 mins of making sure that I had all of it out before I put the new one in.

After the install I let it idle for a good 10 mins to check for leaks, then took it out for a 50 mile drive. When I got back i was able to tighten both the exhaust clamps a further 3 turns each, it must've seated a little better due to the vibration and heat.

The KC Turbos billet wheel paired with the 2004 turbo is a pretty decent setup for mild daily driver. I noticed the following

1. The biggest difference is spool up time slightly better.
2. Boost guage is reading 27 PSI at WOT 0-60 run with the 2004 turbo vs my old 2006 turbo at 23 psi
3. Coupled with a S&B CAI the turbo whine from under hood is a little more pronounced.
4. Turbo " fart " is almost completely gone. It did get it to fart once when I let off the throttle at 25 psi

My IPR reading went from 23% @ 574psi to 21% @ 582psi. So it looks like the new IPR slightly improved things. Just a good insurance policy to replace it at 165k miles I think.


Thank for all the tips,

Chris
 
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