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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

My turbo needs to be rebuilt :(
The compressor bearing is bad as it has oil leak and shaft play. I have begun taking it apart and the turbine and the compressor blades are good and no evidence of blade to housing contact. My questions are as follows:

1: Does it make sense to rebuild myself? I have lots of engine rebuild experience including top end rebuild on this engine as well as EGR delete kit installation.

2: Do rebuilds last? Assuming technical competence in doing the rebuild.

I am looking for advice before spending my money.

Thanks, Jim
 

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First I have to ask if you have end play, because without scraping, how did you determine the shaft play was excessive? Without oil to center the shaft, it will seem loose. However, since you have an oil leak, then you might as well change out the bearings with the oil rings.

The shaft is very hard compared to the bearings, so yes, the rebuild will last. It is inexpensive, about $55-$65.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Hi twoicebergs,

I guess I do not know that I have excessive end play. But.. the turbo started making noise and has vertical play on the compressor side. On the turbine side once I had the turbo out, I could not determine any vertical play. I do have a bearing leak at the compressor side, but no apparent leak on the turbine side.

This site recommends making a custom socket to hold the turbine nut. What do you guys recommend? And how sparingly or freely should I use the nickel anti-seize on the insides of the turbo VGT area? http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1001465-rebuilding-the-6-0-vgturbo.html

Thanks, Jim
 

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Riff Raff Diesel has a nice PDF write up on rebuilding the turbo.

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: Diesel Performane Parts Installation Downloads | Up-pipe installation | Regulated Return Installation and more - Installation

I am rebuilding my turbo shortly and will post some pictures in my excursion build thread in the excursion section. I think it should be simple especially wit the threaded compressor wheel. the other turbo's I've rebuild had smooth shafts where you had to heat the compressor wheel to remove and install the wheel.
Thanks,
Deo
 

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Some of the turbines can be a tough to grab on with a normal socket. Almost all can be grabbed with a ground flat 6 (even a 12) point socket or a sharp edged wrench after the turbine section is separated.

Interesting you detected a leak on the comp side. The oil from the CCV would typically mask it both in front of the turbo and in the hot tube. However, a vibration or loose bearing could easily send fluid out the joint.

Anti-seize should be used sparingly. Most photos I have seen it has been over applied. Using none is probably better than using too much! The carbon/soot will act somewhat the same as anti-seize, but if you live in a humid climate and don't use the vehicle much, it will certainly help.

That was a good write-up, but he sure loves duct-tape and plastic. It isn't needed if you are a little careful, nor is all of the other covers unless you are working in a dirty environment. A roll of tape actually makes a nice cover for the turbine when you are tightening down the backing plate. Don't use thread locker on the wheel threads. The wheel spin will ensure it stays tight. It doesn't matter which way the bearings go in. The alignment process he used is overkill, but for the first time doing it it helps. i see he ground the socket down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds scary

Hi Therabbittree,

Glad I have a threaded compressor wheel too. Press fit compressor and turbine wheels do not sound fun :(.

I only have had one encounter with a press fit item related to my trucks (where I have done the servicing myself, know there are plenty of items that are press fit) and that was the lower or maybe upper ball joint. This was on an '84 F150. Ended up taking the steering knuckle to a shop somewhere along with the new ball joint and said

Pretty please will you make this all better? And the next day if memory serves me correctly, I had a workable steering knuckle with new Ball joint.

Best of luck with your rebuild. I am not going to post a bunch of stuff during the rebuild BUT...am taking lots of pictures as I normally do, and am will post pics here or somewhere else if anyone is interested.

Thanks, Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Torque specs for Garrett turbo

Does any one know the torque specs for the turbo used on the 6.0L F250? I would prefer to tighten all the bolts to a specific torque rather than "tight enough"

Thanks, Jim
 
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