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Discussion Starter #1
Ok.. I've been working on a truck for a rancher. It's been abused.. I just did an EGR delete, new Stc fitting, new stand pipes, dummy plugs, degas bottle (broken nipple) and new thermostat bc it was broken.. Full oil service, fuel filters, rev-x, coolant bypass, vc9 flush.. All is good. This thing is getting hot. I drive the hell out of it for a test drive, it runs better than it ever has according to the customer.. He takes it home, it gets hot. No terribly hot like overheating, but it definitely gets warm. I've done everything but the oil cooler, and I'm trying best to keep his cost down as its a farm truck.. I don't Jew my customers. When I run my solus pro, deltas are fine. He drives it, I have no idea what they are.. The coolant temp sensor was changed with thermostat.. He had a new radiator about a year ago. However, he poured stop leak in it and it has literally calcified the motor.. So I'm looking for suggestions as to why it may be getting hot or what I can do? I've been doing this for quite some time so I don't need dip**** replies or questions. I'm looking for a worthwhile response. Any ideas? Of course ive thought it could be the oil cooler clogged and the oil getting hot thus heating the coolant.. Just need something else to consider.


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Discussion Starter #2
Btw.. It's an 05.. The only things I can think of are clogged oil cooler due to the stop leak, or he essentially clogged the new radiator by adding the stop leak to the coolant immediately after the change and narrowing the passageways.. Just trying to keep cost at a minimum for him.


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Ok it may not seem like much but check the a/c condensor; cac and radiator for bent over fins; trash dirt or heavy oxidation of the fins and tubes anything that can block airflow thru to the radiator and affect air to coolant heat exchange.

As far as calcification of the motor and coolant passages you may try a reflush useing Lime away or oxyclean or some such decalcifyer product.

To save money catch your coolant you drain out in clean 5gal buckets if they fit under the truck. Filter any solids you see in it thru a rag or a big coffe filter in a funnel.
The filter you will need to pour slowly thru. It's micron size is kinda small.
 

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Upgrade to a BPD oil cooler and never run hot again.


Ok.. I've been working on a truck for a rancher. It's been abused.. I just did an EGR delete, new Stc fitting, new stand pipes, dummy plugs, degas bottle (broken nipple) and new thermostat bc it was broken.. Full oil service, fuel filters, rev-x, coolant bypass, vc9 flush.. All is good. This thing is getting hot. I drive the hell out of it for a test drive, it runs better than it ever has according to the customer.. He takes it home, it gets hot. No terribly hot like overheating, but it definitely gets warm. I've done everything but the oil cooler, and I'm trying best to keep his cost down as its a farm truck.. I don't Jew my customers. When I run my solus pro, deltas are fine. He drives it, I have no idea what they are.. The coolant temp sensor was changed with thermostat.. He had a new radiator about a year ago. However, he poured stop leak in it and it has literally calcified the motor.. So I'm looking for suggestions as to why it may be getting hot or what I can do? I've been doing this for quite some time so I don't need dip**** replies or questions. I'm looking for a worthwhile response. Any ideas? Of course ive thought it could be the oil cooler clogged and the oil getting hot thus heating the coolant.. Just need something else to consider.


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Upgrade to a BPD oil cooler and never run hot again.
I think he said, he's trying to do this economically.

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Btw.. It's an 05.. The only things I can think of are clogged oil cooler due to the stop leak, or he essentially clogged the new radiator by adding the stop leak to the coolant immediately after the change and narrowing the passageways.. Just trying to keep cost at a minimum for him.


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I've read a post on oil cooler bypass valve malfunctioning causing high eot. I don't understand the good deltas, then overheating, couldnt that be a failing water pump if the temps rise together? Plastic impeller took a dump?

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Discussion Starter #7
I honestly think he boned himself with dumping stop leak into a new radiator. It doesn't matter what you say, people always ignore it.. I clearly said I was trying not to do an oil cooler.. I don't mind doing it.. Takes about 8 hours.. The point is it's a farm truck that's worth about $5k in the shape its in, and he's spent $2400 on it so far.. This thing has had a rear main seal leak for two years that he won't fix.. They just keep dumping oil into it. I'm ONLY looking for inexpensive ideas.. Like the first gentleman posted.. And the check valve thing.. Good ideas..


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I hate stop leak I have fought problems brought about by that stuff for way too many years in too many types of engines. It plugs radiators, oil coolers, thermostats, anything that can possibly be plugged it will LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh.. I should have mentioned why I replaced the tstat.. It was broken.. Completely.. His coolant was roaring through the degas bottle. It was crazy. If you've ever seen what hard water does to pipes, this is basically the same thing., this **** was crusty like lime scale and calcium deposits. thermostat, upper rad hose, lower rad hose.. It runs like a freakin champ now but all it does it get too hot.. Not redline hot, but definitely raises to about 225-230


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A quick test to see if the radiator is exchange heat. If you have an infrared handheld thermometer shoot several places on the radiator any place you can get too top to bottom side to side. Look for spots where there is no or not much temp change.

Bottom of radiator should be 15 to 25 deg. cooler than the top tank for decent heat exchange to be takeing place.
 
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