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^^^ All good advice...
I would just add that there is no "glow plug cycling". For the best Cold Start results (say under 35F) here's what I would follow;
Forget the WTS light, it's not in any way connected to the GP system.
Over 20F, wait a Full min, with the key On, before you crank.
Under 20F, plug the block heater in for 3hrs (get a timer so it comes on before you leave in the morning) and wait 1-1/2 to 2 mins, key On, before you crank.
If you're routinely under 20, and especially if it's in the single digits, you will see a big improvement if you use a 5W-40 Synthetic motor oil (that 15W is pretty thick in those temps).
As for the minimum Voltage, in an '03, you can actually be in the low 9's before it becomes a Voltage problem. The other minimum you need is RPM (at least 100 cranking). But, and especially as we enter a Vermont Winter, those batteries need to be 100%. This is no place to scrimp, get the best Pair you can (over 800CCA min). Our trucks rely on them So Much in the Cold.
I would just add that there is no "glow plug cycling". For the best Cold Start results (say under 35F) here's what I would follow;
Forget the WTS light, it's not in any way connected to the GP system.
Over 20F, wait a Full min, with the key On, before you crank.
Under 20F, plug the block heater in for 3hrs (get a timer so it comes on before you leave in the morning) and wait 1-1/2 to 2 mins, key On, before you crank.
If you're routinely under 20, and especially if it's in the single digits, you will see a big improvement if you use a 5W-40 Synthetic motor oil (that 15W is pretty thick in those temps).
As for the minimum Voltage, in an '03, you can actually be in the low 9's before it becomes a Voltage problem. The other minimum you need is RPM (at least 100 cranking). But, and especially as we enter a Vermont Winter, those batteries need to be 100%. This is no place to scrimp, get the best Pair you can (over 800CCA min). Our trucks rely on them So Much in the Cold.
