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OperationSmile.org
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Discussion Starter #1
I was driving unloaded today on the highway and around town and my trans temps just kept rising. I just changed my trans fluid last week. Could there be an issue with my stock cooler? Im nervous now cause Ill be moving soon across the county and will be pulling a U haul trailer out there. I dont want it to overheat the trans when its reaching 218 unloaded. And no I wasn't on it at all. Just normal driving. What are my options? Dual coolers? 6.0 cooler? trans go? What do you think will be the best for the money?
 

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Did you use the Mercon SP?
 

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OperationSmile.org
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Discussion Starter #3
I used Mercon V. So your are saying I used the wrong stuff? My buddy picked it up for me while I continued changing other fluids. Is this my problem?
 

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Dex III mercon or mercon V are the two correct options for 4r100. The mercon SP is for the torqshift equiped trucks
 

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Shaking the Bush Boss
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100* over outside temp, is what I have been told will be OK. Mine has hit 200-205 on 95 degree days, running 75+ unloaded on the interstate. My trans was rebuilt 15000 miles ago and has two coolers on it. Planning to have it rebuilt again in august, and have a new 6.0 cooler waiting to be installed.
 

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OperationSmile.org
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Discussion Starter #6
It is 91 outside today. I have never had temps over 170 until I changed it. from what the ford dealership is saying is I need the SP not the Mercon V
 

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Thats funny the 7.3 I have hit 150 on 100 degree day with a 24 foot loaded trailer behind it...But thats with dual coolers banks trans command a deep pan and a shift kit. Oh and I do happen to have a brand new in the box cooler for the E4OD/4R100 I'd be more than happy to sell it to you. let me know 610-299-5510. Tom
 

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Shaking the Bush Boss
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The trans rebuild is going to include a deep pan, woods valve body. The builder puts a 3 yr wanente on his rebuilds, no matter what kind of setup your running... stock, mild, extreme power. 2-3 day turn around, turn key.
 

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Most automatic transmissions fail due to a breakdown of the transmission fluid caused by overheating. This chart provides a graphic display of heats contribution to transmission failure. The effect is also cumulative. Short term exposure to high heat levels (or even prolonged exposure to moderate heat) can break down the fluid to the point where even very short episodes of overheating will lead to failure.
 

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sounds like a converty may be showing sinces of giving. if the cluch slips on highway driving this will cause higher temps. did you happen to notice if the rpms where any higher them normal.
 

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no worries your still ok.





Mine did't get that hot today and was going to post something about it but i don't have to now, thanks Tank:thumb:
 

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OperationSmile.org
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Discussion Starter #16
Where is this cooler bypass at? Between the 1 to 2 shift it just kinda reved but I wasn't on it at all. When I am on it it shifts just fine. The bypass valve could have gotten stuck open when I drained the fluid. Maybe some debri from the trans got in there.
 

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My trans runs about 170-175 and its been 118* here where I live. That ambeint temp is from my factory overhead consol.
 

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The cooler bypass is on the pass side of the trans and the cooler lines screw in to it. To test it
# Bring the transmission up to temperature. It needs to be at least 100 degrees for this test.
# Turn the truck off.
# Remove the rear line from the transmission and place it into a bucket or similar container so that you can measure volume of your flow.
# Have someone turn the truck on.
# At idle (in park), you should measure 32 ounces of fluid in your bucket - in 15 seconds or less. This is an absolute minimum number. A properly working transmission will flow that amount in about 10 seconds or less.
You should not see any fluid pumping out of the rear Transmission port.

If fluid is coming out of the rear port your cooler bypass is bad.
If your flow rate is low your cooler is plugged up.
 
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