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Just got back from a camping trip with our 26 ft. camper, this was the first trip towing it with my 2000 F-250 Superduty supercab shortbed and when up at 45MPH or higher, the camper swayed really BAD, we took the bars off the weight distributing hitch and it helped, but the sway was still there, any ideas as to what may be causing this? The truck had plenty of power LOL Any suggestions would be appreciated :)
 

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when I tow my tractor..and it get it too far foward or too far towards the back of the trailer..it will sway..it has a sweet spot.

I would guess that its either too much tongue weight or to little tongue weight.

might want to look into something like this..I see alot of campers with this style hitch

Trailer Hitch Hidden Hitch Sway Control Bars    
 

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your hitch may not be adjusted to the right height. if you took the bars off then it lowered the front of your camper which helped you out. make sure when your hitched up that your rv sits level with your level bars on. also if you dont have one, get a sway bar for it. it attaches to your hitch and camper. works great.
 

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Re-adjust your WDH/ It is off. You can not have to much tongue weight or bumper weight. When you said it got better when you removed the bars,I eliminated tire pressure.
Honestly it sounds like not enough tongue weight to me.

Good luck.
 

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I agree. Too little tongue weight. Fluid tanks in rear? Full? Cooler in rear. Rack on back with load? Move load to front. Should take care of it. Be careful and good luck.
He just made a great point that is overlooked quit often, Where is your fresh water tank, Those tend to be 50gal and up, If it is in the rear or front, Set up your hitch to what you do more, Travel w/ or w/o water.
 

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You might need a sway stabilizer, too. Before I got my 5er, I had an equalizer hitch which had both the sway and load distributing features built in but it was a lot more pricey than the other brands. I never had a problem with trailer sway, though.
 

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Put more weight on the front of the trailer. Do not think one can put to much on. A equalizer set up does two things, makes up for not having the rear springs to support it and then moving some of it to the front of the driven vehicle. With a 250 this is not your problem. Just do not exceed the hitches capacity as to what one puts on it or behind it. Example a 2” can carried 6,000 with 600 on the ball but if on the bumper has 500 that is all you can pull is 5,000 with 500 on the ball. This is what is in every thing I have seen 10% on the ball. You could have total load of 4,000 but have 500 on the ball and be save and it should tow like a dream. But have that 4,000 with only 300 on the ball and it may just try to pull out and pass.

Its time to cut the list of new posting off again. :dunno:
 

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I dont know much about trailers and sway problems, but my truck has 5" lift springs and blocks for about 8" lift and I was getting a fair amount of sway. I figured it was the rear leaf springs going side to side so I built a trac bar kind of like what is on the front. I have a 30' hauler and with the load leveling bars and my custom trac bar it tows straight as an arrow, no problems.

 

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You definately should have 10 to 15 percent weight on the ball.

Another thought:
Is is possible that one of your tanks is half full? (and not baffled?)The liquid sloshing around can really throw you off!!
 

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I dont know much about trailers and sway problems, but my truck has 5" lift springs and blocks for about 8" lift and I was getting a fair amount of sway. I figured it was the rear leaf springs going side to side so I built a trac bar kind of like what is on the front. I have a 30' hauler and with the load leveling bars and my custom trac bar it tows straight as an arrow, no problems.
That is a need idea to keep the rear axel in and aligned under the truck.
The only thing different I might have done was to tie it to the left side spring perch so it would have a longer radius to keep it from binding the springs.

Its time to cut the list of new posting off again. :dunno:
 

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heres the solution...



...see my pullrite thread in this same forum :)
 

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Make sure you have enough air in the tires on the trailer. Too little will sometimes allow the trailer to sway. Pretty easy to experiment with that one. I also apply mrnecsteve's formula of 10-15% of towed weight on the tongue.
 

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Time to lock and load.

For those that steal gas/diesel, seize their vehicles the first time, crush them the second offense, that might stop driveoffs.
 

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Just get a dually they eliminate all trailer sway LOL
 

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This may be too obvious, but check your tire pressure on your trailer. Even 10 lb difference will make your trailer sway like crazy.
 

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That is a need idea to keep the rear axel in and aligned under the truck.
The only thing different I might have done was to tie it to the left side spring perch so it would have a longer radius to keep it from binding the springs.
Thats a really good point, i should have done that. :doh:
 
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