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Discussion Starter #1
Seems the " death wobble" main origination point is the trac bar ball joint from what I can gather researching the issue. My questions would be.
1- Just replace the ball joint and bushings and leave the stock bar- if so what to use, OEM, Moog etc?
2- Along with a new ball joint , replace the trac bar with a BD-POWER 1032110 ADJUSTABLE TRACK-BAR ?
3 - Get rid of the ball joint and replace the trac bar with READYLIFT 77-2003 HEAVY-DUTY ADJUSTABLE ?

For those that have done 1, or more, of the above what are the advantages and trade offs of each? If the truck is stock with no lift, is there any reason to go with adjustable bars?

Thanks for advice
 

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From my experience thus far I'd go with the heavy duty ready lift. My current bar is a bigger aftermarket bar unsure of the brand and the ball joint is worn causing some wobble moments. To my understanding the adjustablity is to center the axle and the the ball joint. Mine might be short as the joint is at pretty steep angle from the looks of it. I think it wore out faster because of it. I'm sorting thru that as I get tires this month as well.
Good luck.
Nice find on the Hd bar!
 

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I like the ready lift setup but they like it a lot more than me $$$$$$

if your truck's axle is centered then you really are fine with a non adjustable bar but if your always messing with height it may be a benefit some day
or if your off center now then it can fix that issue

the OEM ball joint is fine IMO for 8" under lifts with drop brackets on the bar link I run a pure performance with a heim up top
but be warned heims transfer all road feel unlike the bushing style units that isolate the bar from the bracket ( I recommend this type )

PMF has some nice options ( call and talk to Trevor ) , also , Pure , carli , OUO , ready lift , and others but make sure you get one that is "installed adjustable"
vs disassembly to adjust
 

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ps if your stock many of the HD bars won't fit your truck, and I would suggest a new OEM BJ and new bushings

check the bolt / sleeve and bracket for deformation/ wear

if you need adjustable ( doubtful at stock) make sure it fits a 0" lift


the OEM BJ is a bear to get out so read up on tricks if you are a driveway DIY guy
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Can you expound on Axel being centered..what are the signs or symptoms of it not being centered...is that something that can only be checked with an alignment..my steering wheel is always slightly skewed a few degrees even though it's not pulling to one side per say...is that indicate an off center axle...when pointed out to the tire shop that does the alignment they fussed with it for over an hour but said they couldn't get it any better but I didn't ask for why or more details...thanks for the advice and education!
 

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Can you expound on Axel being centered..what are the signs or symptoms of it not being centered...is that something that can only be checked with an alignment..my steering wheel is always off !
steering wheel can be adjusted to center but without an adjustable trac bar the axle is fixed at a certain location when the truck suspension is still

so if you find ( no alignment necessary just visual and or a tape measure and straight edge )

symptoms can be just aesthetic but tracking in ruts and other issues can be present if the off center is a lot

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh now I get it...picture worth many words...centered with the body...thanks
 

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Palmeris what option did you go with? I need to rebuild my front suspension and currently looking at the same options you are. I want to eliminate the bushing on the OEM track bar, but think I might be going overkill. I am going to add an icon leveling kit, and dynatrac ball joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
sorry it took me so long to respond been out of town and dealing with family issues.I have not addressed the situation yet but I am leaning towards just replacing the track bar ball joint and bushing - The vehicle will be going in for routine service soon and I will make a decision then... I was looking at those dyna trac ball joints as well, man they are expensive ..... my shop wants 6.5 hours labor to install both upper and lowers ball joints, 2.2 hours for the track bar, 1.7 hours for tie rods and 1.0 hours for sway bar ---about 1650 in labor all told...plus parts, oems come in around 1638.00 for all so its over 3500 for a complete new front end but i dont think it needs all of that, so thats why i am thinking just the track bar at this time....
 

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Drag link.

Can you expound on Axel being centered..what are the signs or symptoms of it not being centered...is that something that can only be checked with an alignment.. my steering wheel is always slightly skewed a few degrees even though it's not pulling to one side per say...is that indicate an off center axle...when pointed out to the tire shop that does the alignment they fussed with it for over an hour but said they couldn't get it any better but I didn't ask for why or more details...thanks for the advice and education!
Straightening your steering wheel is a simple task, but not always easy. Just loosen the 2 nuts on the drag link and give it a little twist. Your steering wheel will move when you do this. Everytime I have had to do it I can get it really close but never perfect. Next time I try I am going to make some marks on the parts so I can keep track of how much and which way I twisted the darn thing.
BTL
 
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the alignment shop tries but it does take some driving to figure out what way to adjust

the crown in the road can effect center as can any play in the gear so a simple buzz around the street won't tell the shop what they need to do
it becomes apparent to to the operator after driving while hey I need it to get this steering wheel counter clockwise a 1/2"
 

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The Dynatrac ball joints cost but last way longer then the anything else. I called to a couple of different parts suppliers to get opinions. CJC and SDHQ both said the same thing, we sell a lot of the Dynatrac ball joints, but we don't get any calls for rebuild kits. I live in Northern CA, tow a lot and use my truck off-road. This is my second time changing out the ball joints. Bought the truck with 30,000 miles and they needed to be changed. The guy before must have been real hard on the truck. Didn't know much about Ford or Diesels before I bought the truck, but I learned. Fully bullet proofed the motor and upgraded the turbo, and radiator. Point being is nothing is cheap on this truck. Look at what you plan to do with your truck, including how long you plan to keep it. I bought mine for 28k, put another 11k into the motor, changed out the ball joints myself for under 400. That was a 150,000 miles ago for a total of 187,000 on truck. So I am way ahead on this truck compared to others. I used NAPA joints last time, because they are as close to OEM and they have a Kevlar insert in the joint. My drivers side is good, passenger side is wasted. be real nice if this ball joint was rebuild-able Got me looking at the track bar, joint is wasted, but the steering is not that loose - do get bounce at 65 to 70 mph though. Guy before me put a leveling kit on in with spacers on top of springs, want to get rid of those. This suspension work is very drive-way doable, so the real investment for me is in the parts I choose. Just need to figure best route on the track bar modification.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I don't see a dyna ball joint listed for the track bar, just the uppers and lowers....will one of those work on the trac bar?
 

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sorry it took me so long to respond been out of town and dealing with family issues.I have not addressed the situation yet but I am leaning towards just replacing the track bar ball joint and bushing - The vehicle will be going in for routine service soon and I will make a decision then... I was looking at those dyna trac ball joints as well, man they are expensive ..... my shop wants 6.5 hours labor to install both upper and lowers ball joints, 2.2 hours for the track bar, 1.7 hours for tie rods and 1.0 hours for sway bar ---about 1650 in labor all told...plus parts, oems come in around 1638.00 for all so its over 3500 for a complete new front end but i dont think it needs all of that, so thats why i am thinking just the track bar at this time....
Do a new Motorcraft track bar joint at the axle. Then run one of these track bars. It will really tighten things up:

https://8lugtruckgear.com/Ford-Suspension/Track-Bars-Brackets/Pure-Performance-Ford-Heavy-Duty-Adjustable-Track-Bar-p655.html

If your ball joints are showing signs of wear, it's hard to beat the Dynatrac Pro Steers. They last 3 times longer than anything else and have a tighter feel since they don't run a plastic liner. I keep those in stock as well: https://8lugtruckgear.com/Drivetrain/Ford-Drivetrain/Ford-Ball-Joints/Dynatrac-ProSteer-Ball-Joints-99-16-Ford-SuperDuty-94-99-Ram-HD-p685.html
 
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