Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This post is simply for thoughts on what I found while replacing my fuel tank; this isn't a "how to" or me asking how to do a particular mod, just sharing my discovery.


While replacing my fuel tank (blow out from an 18-wheeler wrapped around my driveshaft and beat a hole in my fuel tank), I decided to see what the inside of my old tank looked like. Didn't have to, since my replacement has everything and is ready to mount up, but curiosity got the best of me.

Most owners of these trucks are aware of the "hutch mod" and how it is a useful one to do; well, I'd say this is a new take on that mod.

Note the re-use of one of the factory screens cartridges on the end of a length of hose.

I must also add that this was done by the previous owner, NOT me.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,673 Posts
I don't like anything about it ;)

First, the return should always be 180* from the suction side so you don't reintroduce bubbles into the fuel supply. Next, replacing the umbrella with the screen is all wrong. You lose the purpose for the umbrella, suck air sooner when low, and still have the screen left in the tank to clog and cause you problems.

The Hutch Mod resolves all of that!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Oh neither did I.

It definitely explains all the weird idle issues I had..... It would have this weird "surge" at idle, but I could never figure out why, even with new everything (pump, filter, injectors, CPS, ICP, T500 HPOP, built trans., etc...)

Well luckily the replacement sending unit I have actually has a new umbrella on it; and I disassembled the screen assembly to ensure it was clean/clear.

Sure, I should've taken it off and done the hutch mod, but I'm broke as heck; and eventually I'm going to put a titan fuel tank with a high-volume sending unit from riffraff (because I have plans for this truck later on down the road)
 

·
Fuel it up again Dummy
Joined
·
5,721 Posts
I will say I cut off my vent lines coming into my fuel tank. I can now put 37 gallons of fuel into my truck instead of 27-29 gallons.

Wish I did that long time ago, just used a ratcheting pvc cutter and cut both off as high as I could go.
Well worth the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
I just did the hutch and harpoon mod and was baffled the first time I put fuel in it. Half a tank and I fit 23 gallons in it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,408 Posts
I will say I cut off my vent lines coming into my fuel tank. I can now put 37 gallons of fuel into my truck instead of 27-29 gallons.

Wish I did that long time ago, just used a ratcheting pvc cutter and cut both off as high as I could go.
Well worth the time.
I did exactly that to my buddy's truck about 2 years ago... will have to ask him about it, if it's made a difference. I can't see how it wouldn't, only that he might not notice!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I just did the hutch and harpoon mod and was baffled the first time I put fuel in it. Half a tank and I fit 23 gallons in it.
So I'm not the only one that had a weird fuel reading? good to know.

When I did mine (the harpoon mod anyway), I put 5 gallons back in (drained the fuel into 5 gallon jerry cans), and my fuel gauge read 1/4 a tank... Now by some simple math: 29 gallon fuel tank divided into fourths, you get 7.25 per fourth.

The float was not bent, and everything was spot on.

But when I added more fuel, it seemed to correct itself and read correctly (well, as correct as these things can get).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I will say I cut off my vent lines coming into my fuel tank. I can now put 37 gallons of fuel into my truck instead of 27-29 gallons.

Wish I did that long time ago, just used a ratcheting pvc cutter and cut both off as high as I could go.
Well worth the time.

And you did the to the truck in your sig?

The pump used to cut off at 25 gallons for me, then the rest was a fight with the foam issue.

Even though diesel is an average of $1.99/gal where I live, I have yet to fill it all the way up again (replacement fuel tank wasn't cheap.... wasn't terribly expensive, but wasn't cheap)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,018 Posts
So I'm not the only one that had a weird fuel reading? good to know.

When I did mine (the harpoon mod anyway), I put 5 gallons back in (drained the fuel into 5 gallon jerry cans), and my fuel gauge read 1/4 a tank... Now by some simple math: 29 gallon fuel tank divided into fourths, you get 7.25 per fourth.

The float was not bent, and everything was spot on.

But when I added more fuel, it seemed to correct itself and read correctly (well, as correct as these things can get).
yeah definitely not out of the ordinary... every 99-03 7.3 ive been in does the same thing I guess its just how the float registers the last quarter tank
 

·
Fuel it up again Dummy
Joined
·
5,721 Posts
And you did the to the truck in your sig?

The pump used to cut off at 25 gallons for me, then the rest was a fight with the foam issue.

Even though diesel is an average of $1.99/gal where I live, I have yet to fill it all the way up again (replacement fuel tank wasn't cheap.... wasn't terribly expensive, but wasn't cheap)
Yea I did it to my 2006. I honestly don't think I ever got 25 gallons into mine. Since I cut vent pipes off at top of the tank it take 130 miles for the fuel gauge to start moving off F

The fuel tanks in these trucks are too small, at least in the CC models. My old 2006 SCLB had a 40 gallon tank and that was nice.
 
  • Like
Reactions: five0merc

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
^^^ Mine is the same now. Went to sacramento and back twice before it came off E which is about the 120-130 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,745 Posts
I do my own hutch mods for around $75 with a Napa 4770 filter base and Baldwin bf1212 filters I use 3/8 blue fuel line and run a
Piece about 18" long on the return to get it to the other side the tank and I just run a piece of 3/8 about 6" long for the suction with a v cut on the end and I have done it this way on over 10 trucks now with no issues because 90% of the time the umbrella is trashed anyway I have never had a issue with sucking air of course I don't ever run down to the fuel light I refill at a 1/4 tank always I have no screen in my tank at all but my spin on filter is pre pump I have done over a dozen hutch mods for me and friends and never had a issue.

Here is my write up

Hutch mod

This is my version of the hutch mod to do away with the horrible unserviceable factory pickup screens in the tank. This is called a mixing chamber what it does is mix hot airy return fuel back into the suction feed going back to the motor poor design on fords part. When the screens get clogged the truck with studder and white smoke and the pickup foot will deteriorate over time and break off and cause the truck to catch air causing all kind of symptoms that people will tell you bad turbo, injectors, uvhc, and on and on when it's rather simple.

List of things needed

Napa 4770 filter housing

3/8 brass barb fittings for the fuel filter housing for the inlet and outlet.

Baldwin fuel filter bf1212

Some bolts and nuts to mount it

About 15' of 3/8 blue fuel line

Some hose clamps to fit over hose about 8 of them

A set of quick disconnect fuel line tools

Patience

Basic socket set / cordless impact works wonders

Jack

Tape measure

Hammer

4lb sledge

Big flathead

First run tank down to under a 1/4 tank

Remove the 3 small bolts in the fuel cap door that hold the filler neck on the bed, behind that is a hose clamp to a tab on the filler neck tube remove that

The tank straps are simple undo the single bolt on each strap on the inside the straps not the outside the outside are where the straps hinge down. (If you have a skid plate has to be removed) the bolts are much easier if you have straight exhaust because the factory muffler gets in the way

You should then be able to lower the tank down by laying under it and doing it by hand I find this much easier than dealing with jacks. You may have to fish the filler neck and all around the frame slightly. I never remove the tank all the way unless the truck is 2wd and low.

Disconnect the sending unit wires. Then use the fuel line disconnect tools to undo the two fuel lines on top the sending unit.
Now take the hammer and flathead or a piece of 1" square aluminum tubing works good and hammer off the big plastic nut that holds the sending unit in the tank.

Nut off now pull the sending unit out the tank. Now take the 4lb sledge and beat the hell out of the white plastic mixing chamber until it brakes off the suction and return lines. ( now look at the two small screen tubes at how clogged they are) and if your pickup foot wasn't on the sending unit it's broke off in the tank.

Now take a piece of the 3/8 fuel hose about 18" in length and clamp onto the smaller pipe that's the return line so that it goes to the opposite end of the tank.
Now cut a piece of hose about 6-8" in length and cut one end in v formation then clamp the hose onto the big straight line on the sending unit this is the suction/feed line. Measure from the sending unit top down 13 3/4" from the top the sending unit to the bottom of the piece of v cut hose this will ensure the pickup is right on the bottom of the tank and the v will allow it to pickup good amounts of fuel. I have done over a dozen kits this way with no issues.

Now you can reinstall the sending unit. Here is where the patience comes in the big plastic nut that holds the sending unit into place is a pain in the *** sometimes it will go on in seconds or minutes and other times it will fight you for a hour cross threading.

Prepare the filter housing by plugging one inlet and one outlet and install the 3/8 barb fittings.
Now mount the filter housing between the fuel pump and the tank somewhere easy to access for you just watch for the lines in the frame when drilling holes for bolts I have found just 2 of the bolts sufficient to hold it in place and I have used one factory hole in the frame. You can make a bracket to sandwich the frame to mount the filter inside the frame but I have been mounting them outside the frame with no issues.
I also have mine mounted to the cab with self tapping bolts for 3 years now.

After mounting now run a piece of hose from the suction on top the tank sending unit to the back of the filter housing inlet. It's tough to get the hose over the factory suction on the sending unit I find a little dawn and a pair of pliers the lightly twist and I push it on works great. Hose clamp it in place. The factory suction line from the back of the fuel pump to the sending unit is no longer used. Also hook the factory return line back to the top the tank. You can now put the tank back up.

Now run a 3/8 hose from the inlet on the filter housing to the back of the fuel pump that's under the drivers door inside the frame.

Now just fill your filter up with diesel and cycle the key about 10 times to work any air out the system and fire up the beast.

The filters are readily accessible at any auto parts store for around $10 bucks and the factory $30 filter I have let go as long as a year and checked it to find it still looked like new due to the extra filter.

This is hands down the best mod to do to the 99-03 7.3s the factory design is poor and crappy. This mod with clean the idle up give you better throttle response and aid in any more upgrades you do and allow more fuel to flow easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,745 Posts

4770 filter base from Napa and filter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top