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I have about 145k on my truck. I pull up to about 6k every now and then, and when I'm not pullin I do admit I get on the truck a lot. Its chipped and all that good stuff. I bought the truck used and dont know if the fluid in the trans has ever been changed. A few months ago I put a tru cool in line with my factory cooler and the old fluid did have a burnt smell to it but it looked clean and red. I'm looking for advice about getting the transmission flushed. I've heard its bad because it shakes up all the metal and stuff in the pan and causes damage. Would I be better off just draining it then refilling it? TIA
 

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yea no flush drop pan but I do every 50K or so but I dont use mine hard.
 

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Dropping the pan only removes less than half the total fluid. Adding new fluid to it simply mix old with new.

Would you empty half of your engine oil and fill it up with new oil? you would not do that with your engine, why would you want to do that with your trannie?
 

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I have about 145k on my truck. I pull up to about 6k every now and then, and when I'm not pullin I do admit I get on the truck a lot. Its chipped and all that good stuff. I bought the truck used and dont know if the fluid in the trans has ever been changed. A few months ago I put a tru cool in line with my factory cooler and the old fluid did have a burnt smell to it but it looked clean and red. I'm looking for advice about getting the transmission flushed. I've heard its bad because it shakes up all the metal and stuff in the pan and causes damage. Would I be better off just draining it then refilling it? TIA

If your truck is a '99, 2000, or early 2001, it should have a drain on the torque converter. rotate that bad boy so the drain plug is at 6 o'clock and drain away. drop the pan too and replace the filter. No flush necessary. good luck.
 

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If your truck is a '99, 2000, or early 2001, it should have a drain on the torque converter. rotate that bad boy so the drain plug is at 6 o'clock and drain away. drop the pan too and replace the filter. No flush necessary. good luck.
That is interesting. What do you mean by "rotating that bad boy" ?

A picture of that torque converter drain would greatly help.
 

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That is interesting. What do you mean by "rotating that bad boy" ?

A picture of that torque converter drain would greatly help.
You just need to block your wheels so your truck doesn't move, take off the protective shield covering your torque converter, place your truck in neutral, and then rotate the flywheel until you see the torque converter drain plug. Rotate it until it is straight down and accessible. It is really easy. My 2001 w/ the V10 had the drain plug. I was a little upset when I found out my 2002 Powerstroke didn't have it after rotating the torque converter around and around only to find no plug.:doh:
 

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What does it take to remove that torque converter shield?
It is just a few bolts to take off. Easily accessible. You will see once you crawl under there.
 

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Dropping the pan only removes less than half the total fluid. Adding new fluid to it simply mix old with new.

Would you empty half of your engine oil and fill it up with new oil? you would not do that with your engine, why would you want to do that with your trannie?
Do you really think that emptying your engine oil through the drain plug removes ALL of the engine oil?
 

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I am sure there is some residual oil left in the pan and in nooks and cranies, but that is not 50% as the case of drain plug on transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So how much will come out if you drain the pan? how about the pan+the torque converter?
 

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best way to change/flush:
drain the pan, refill with new oil, remove cooler return line and route into a bucket, have oil ready to pour in, start the truck at idle and fill transmission as fast as possible, DO NOT LET IT RUN DRY. after 4 gallons shut off truck. reinstall cooler line and fill transmission.
You should not have and problems with knocking debris loose because it is pumping the oil the same as it always does, not back flushing like the machines will.
 

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best way to change/flush:
drain the pan, refill with new oil, remove cooler return line and route into a bucket, have oil ready to pour in, start the truck at idle and fill transmission as fast as possible, DO NOT LET IT RUN DRY. after 4 gallons shut off truck. reinstall cooler line and fill transmission.
You should not have and problems with knocking debris loose because it is pumping the oil the same as it always does, not back flushing like the machines will.
Seems risky.....

There must be some way to change the tranny oil correctly. How does Ford recommend it? And at what intervals?
 

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Ford recommends you to take it to Ford dealers....lol.

I flushed at homes couple of times and it is quite simple. I do not drain using the plug on the bottom of the pan. I simply disconnect the return line and route it to a 5 gallon bucket. I idle engine, which pumps fluid into the bucket. When I begin to see bubble in the line, I stop engine, refill the transmission, idle and repeat same steps until I use up 15 quarts. At that point, I stop, put the return line back in and fill up the transmission to required level.

I use this same procedure on gassers as well. It is a whole lot better than taking it to the dealer as there is no way for me to know if the tech cleans out his machine after he did the cars before mine. If he did not, he in effect put all the gunks from previous cars into my transmission and guess what happen to my filter and radiator tubes.
 

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Ford recommends you to take it to Ford dealers....lol.

I flushed at homes couple of times and it is quite simple. I do not drain using the plug on the bottom of the pan. I simply disconnect the return line and route it to a 5 gallon bucket. I idle engine, which pumps fluid into the bucket. When I begin to see bubble in the line, I stop engine, refill the transmission, idle and repeat same steps until I use up 15 quarts. At that point, I stop, put the return line back in and fill up the transmission to required level.

I use this same procedure on gassers as well. It is a whole lot better than taking it to the dealer as there is no way for me to know if the tech cleans out his machine after he did the cars before mine. If he did not, he in effect put all the gunks from previous cars into my transmission and guess what happen to my filter and radiator tubes.
reason I fill it while truck is idling, those bubbles mean the pump is already starving for fluid, and by draining pan and refilling with fluid I have already changed at least 5-6qrts and the pump is flushing clean fluid through the system
 

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reason I fill it while truck is idling, those bubbles mean the pump is already starving for fluid, and by draining pan and refilling with fluid I have already changed at least 5-6qrts and the pump is flushing clean fluid through the system
I like the idea of dumping the pan and then letting the pump run the fluid through the trans. One question, since we have a thermostatic bypass on our trannys, doesn't the cold fluid shut this off and prevent fluid from running to the coolers? If you needed 5 quarts to refill the trans pan, you could make marks on your bucket at 4 quart intervals and just shut down the engine and refill every time the trans pumps out 4 quarts.

Adding atf to the SD trucks isn't really easy so I like the idea of doing it without being rushed.
 

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I like the idea of dumping the pan and then letting the pump run the fluid through the trans. One question, since we have a thermostatic bypass on our trannys, doesn't the cold fluid shut this off and prevent fluid from running to the coolers? If you needed 5 quarts to refill the trans pan, you could make marks on your bucket at 4 quart intervals and just shut down the engine and refill every time the trans pumps out 4 quarts.

Adding atf to the SD trucks isn't really easy so I like the idea of doing it without being rushed.
Yes, I run the engine for about ten minutes before I disconnect the line and begins to pump fluid out of transmission.

That is exactly the reason I shut down engine to refill when I see bubbles showing up in line. It would be faster if you continuously fill the transmission while it is running. But I prefer to take time and not goofing up.
 

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I just got my new AIS intake system delivered today and I noticed there is a grey sensor posted in the back of the intake box. I don't remember seeing a wire and connector that hooks into this sensor and I wanted to know if it's okay to just run it without this sensor being connected???

Also, is there a wire and connector that hooks into the filter minder as well? if so, Is it okay to run this also without hooking it up?

Thanks
Might wanna make a new thread about that

Where I work, we have a machine from Wynn's. Just find a line, put the machine in the middle of the flow and run it.:dunno:What? That's really what you do.
How it works is when you start the truck with the machine within the flow, it mechanically detects which line has the pressure from the trans. All the old fluid is just dumped out to our holding tanks. However much fluid the TQ pumps to the machine, the machine has a small pump which pushed THE SAME AMOUNT of fluid back into the system. It runs until it's out of fluid then auto flips to "loop" which is not interrupting the natural path of the fluid. None is dumped and none is added.
And before you say, "pumping old fluid out with a machine is bad" yes it is. But the one we have doesn't. There's a pressure gauge. Normal transmissions run right about 40 PSI. Unless there's a problem of course. Or it's an Allison:doh:. But you can have the truck running and it'll be pushing 40 on loop which means the fluid is not being exchanged or on flush which means old is dumped and new is added. I wasn't ever really sure of it but I've done so many now and on a few powerstrokes too, and it really does work. So you're not dislodging any old varnish or deposits. Whatever the TQ normally pushes out is what comes out.:thumb:
 
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