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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, short and sweet...here is the problem. Usually when taking a left hand turn at about 10-15 mph (curve), if feel and hear a clunk noise coming from the passenger side front end. I did some research and most people say that the sway bar bushings and end links are a common problem for these trucks. I do not have a lift and have stock tires. What are some things I can check? I went under the front end and everything "appears" correct, but we all know looks can be deceiving. It ususually does not make the noise when I take a curve slower, just at the 10-15+ mph mark. What are your thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well I went out and looked at this once again and noticed that grease is seaping out of the outer tie rod bushing. This clearly does not look right. How hard is it to replace the outer tie rod on the passenger side? I see several versions of this part online. Can someone point me to the correct one if you also think this may be the problem. The grease looks fairly fresh
 

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Here is the pic

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
pis is a no go EdIT= ok it showed up now ?

grease will seep out specially if it was freshly greased ?

check the sway bar at the top where it connects to the frame

mine spits out one of those isolators/bushings every so often and I get a clunk

also a loose track bar to frame bolt can do the same
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Easy to replace? Would it help if I took another picture?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks torn. I was able to get a screwdriver in the boot thing. Issues will this cause?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Anyone think that ripped boot like that one will cause issues?
 

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Usually a tie rod end will cause a squeak and not a clunk. My money is in the sway bar bushings. If you hold your hand over the bushing to where you can feel the bushing and sway bar at the same time and have someone rock the truck side to side, I'll bet that you'll feel the sway bar move inside the bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I guess I do not want to classify this as a clunk, it's just a noise that comes from the passenger side front tire area. It does not sound like a squeek tho. I'll take it to an empty parking lot tonight and see if I can determine what I think the sound is. I looked and the bushings and they seem pretty beefy still. But i'll have a friend move it and i'll see if I can feel the sway bar move. Are you thinking the bushings that mount to the frame or the end links? Also what is the failure point on the tie rods? The outer tie rod "looks" to be in good shape, aside from the torn boot.
 

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I guess I do not want to classify this as a clunk, it's just a noise that comes from the passenger side front tire area. It does not sound like a squeek tho. I'll take it to an empty parking lot tonight and see if I can determine what I think the sound is. I looked and the bushings and they seem pretty beefy still. But i'll have a friend move it and i'll see if I can feel the sway bar move. Are you thinking the bushings that mount to the frame or the end links? Also what is the failure point on the tie rods? The outer tie rod "looks" to be in good shape, aside from the torn boot.
I'm referring to the frame mounted bushings. If the boot is torn, it's already on borrowed time unless it was real recent. Dirt, dust and other stuff can get inside the joint and start causing wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, thank you for your help. Looks like I need to replace the tie rod and i'll check the bushings. For 12 or so bucks for the bushings, might as well replace them anyway. How hard is the tie rod to replace? I have seen some online for under 30 bucks or so, does that sound right?
 

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They're not all that hard to replace but can be stubborn to get them loose. Sometimes using heat is required. Don't buy cheap parts. Go with MOOG for the tie rod ends. Also, Advance Auto sells Energy Suspension Urethane bushings cheap for the sway bar.
 

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Ripped boots do not cause clunks.
Ripped/torn/missing boots will accelerate the deterioration of the joint, that is all.

To test a tie rod or ball joint. You need to jack up the front end and then wiggle the tire (or use a prybar). The vehicle must be supported under the axle so there is no weight being transferred through the tire/wheel combo.

Back and forth to test the tie rods, up and down to test the ball joints. You will most likely need an assistant to watch components as you do the wiggle.
 

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To check your Tie-rods: Have an assistant sit in the truck and wiggle the steering wheel back and forth about 6 inches side to side with the truck running. Look at all four tie-rod joints (the two at the wheels and the two on the bar that connect to the steering box) for any movement. Replace if movement is seen. You can also jack up the front end and shake the tire back and forth by hand to check the tie-rods at the wheels. Doesn't matter where you place the jack for this. However, this method will not show any problems in the upper bar like shaking the steering wheel and looking would. The upper bar that connects to the the steering box is called the inner tie-rods (left and right) and adjuster sleeve. The lower bar that connects the two front wheels is called the outer tie-rods (left and right). Weird I know but that's what Ford calls them.

To check Ball joints: Jack truck up under the axle until tires are about 3 inches off the ground. Have any assistant place a large prybar under each tire and try to pry up on the tire. While they are working the prybar up and down look at your upper and lower ball joints for any movement. Replace any that have movement. The hand shaking of the tire up and down doesn't work well for these trucks because every thing is so heavy on them.

To check your swaybar bushings and links just grab the bar near the link or bushing you want to check and shake vigorously. Any play will be felt as a slight knocking or bumping. Same thing with the track bar. If the bolts are loose it will clunk when you shake it.

The torn boot in your picture doesn't look that bad. However I would replace it. It will allow rapid wear of that joint. If the joint is ok you can normally get a boot kit and just replace that. A lot more cost effective then doing the whole tie-rod. If you change the whole tie-rod you will need somebody to set the toe afterwards.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am going to replace the bushings this weekend just to do it. Hopefully that fixes it, if not, i'll put in a new tie rod. Is the below part the only one I need for the job? Is it even the right part? I'm good with motors, horrible with suspension :(. Thanks!

Moog DS300008 Tie Rod | eBay
 

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I have a bad inner tie rod and besides the annoying loose steering, clunking from it bouncing back and forth, it is all good....i have a new one going in on Saturday.
 
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