Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

21 - 40 of 55 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,412 Posts
I am going to add a heat exchanger. FPHE is the standard, but I've also seen the Arctic Fox linehauler mentioned a few times. Does anyone have experience with these? Also, can I mount a linehauler or FPHE to my firewall in the engine compartment? I would much prefer to mount there rather than on the framewall for better efficiency.
I dont think Bruce is on this forum. Get on frybrid or wvodesigns and look up a guy named brucem. he is using a linehauler in his conversion. Or at least he was. Smart dude and will give you tons of info about that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,364 Posts
Im lost.

Why tap into the stock fuel lines when you have two perfectly good points of entry unused? Is it because of the stock fuel pump? Sounds like way too much work.

Get rid of the stock pump entirely. Use a SD pump for D2. Use the raptor for VO.
Check valves in line on each side. Done.:nod:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Sorry, I must not be communicating clearly. I would like to use the stock lines from the heads back to where they connect to the stock pump because of the difficulty in fabricating new lines.

Yes, I want to ditch the mechanical pump and stock fuel bowl completely.

Just trying to figure out how to go from one 3/8" rubber fuel line to the two metal lines that feed the heads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,364 Posts
If the OBS fuel lines are the same thread as a SD, I can look and check for you. If so use the hard lines for D2.

The whole OBS fuel pump/bowl/filter is just goofy. Get rid of it all Put in a SD bowl, stock regulator and pump. Use the factory steel lines to the heads. Use factory hard line for D2 return and plumb with hose to the SD regulator on the SD fuel bowl.

Create a seperate fuel circuit for VO. Use the Raptor pump and regulator for VO. Enter the fuel into the heads in the service ports. Purge time ZERO.

It really would not be that difficult in the OBS. There is PLENTY of room do whatever you need to do in there. I like the space in the OBS.

Just my :twocents:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Ahhhh.. vegginpsd, you just had to open a whole new can of worms, eh? :)

Well, since you did, I'll start barraging you with questions. Your idea is, of course, brilliant. I checked out tubular's page with his install because I think that is what he did. I suppose it's a bit different on my OBS than his '01, but I get the picture.

So, I currently use a 6 way switching valve. In the setup you suggest, that would go. I get the check valves part, but how would I manage the return? What I do right now is loop the return on veg and send it back to the d2 tank on d2. Return to veg isn't an option for me (welded that shut on the underbelly tank). I assume the engine just has one return outlet (not a second "service" one to tap into)?

So, would I need to take out the 6 way and put in different solenoids that loop the return while on veg and send it back to the tank on d2?

Thanks for the pump suggestion. A thought: fi the pump is $115.00 or so and a regulator is 100 -150, why not just buy another raptor or a fass with a built in regulator? Seems like about the same about of $$ for a better pump.

Man, it's remarkable how quickly these projects expand. :tard:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,364 Posts
Ahhhh.. vegginpsd, you just had to open a whole new can of worms, eh? :)

Well, since you did, I'll start barraging you with questions. Your idea is, of course, brilliant. I checked out tubular's page with his install because I think that is what he did. I suppose it's a bit different on my OBS than his '01, but I get the picture.

So, I currently use a 6 way switching valve. In the setup you suggest, that would go. I get the check valves part, but how would I manage the return? What I do right now is loop the return on veg and send it back to the d2 tank on d2. Return to veg isn't an option for me (welded that shut on the underbelly tank). I assume the engine just has one return outlet (not a second "service" one to tap into)?Get rid of the valves. The raptor has a built in regulator. Set it to 65. The SD fuel bowl has its regulator built in. Return the D2 if needed to the fuel line PRE_PUMP.

So, would I need to take out the 6 way and put in different solenoids that loop the return while on veg and send it back to the tank on d2? No valves needed. Fuel sustem dead headed in heads.

Thanks for the pump suggestion. A thought: fi the pump is $115.00 or so and a regulator is 100 -150, why not just buy another raptor or a fass with a built in regulator? Seems like about the same about of $$ for a better pump. THe raptor has a regulator.

Man, it's remarkable how quickly these projects expand. :tard:
Actually I am greatly more simple.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,207 Posts
if i am understanding you correctly (Charlie)...

you dont need to worry about a return. the D2 will feed into teh abck of the heads, and the vo will feed into the front via the service ports. (jsut anohter fuel port currently blocked). no returns at all. thats what Mike is getting at i believe. this is referred to as a dead headed system. stock our OBS's have a return, after this they wont. keep your 6 port and just block off the return port.

does that clear anything up or am i misunderstanding what your saying?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
if you end up making some changes to your setup and go to check valve based switching a Raptor will prolly not keep up with the truck's demand for fuel when you put the pedal down, well on VO anyway.

I found this out too late after I bought a Raptor 150 and had it sitting around my house for 8 months before actually getting around to using it. Lesson learned, cause it barley made 35psi on 70F VO with a ball valve simulating 20GPH of flow. Even with the valve closed it wouldn't make more than 40PSI. Hence why I have one for sale in the part section here.

Check valves are easy to setup and do, and it would eliminate your 6-way valve, running VO in your stock filter bowl, prolly a ton of hoses, and would give you purge times of around 10-12 seconds to flush out the heads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Thanks for the feedback, Bruce. I think what I'm going to do is run the raptor on the diesel side and get a FASS 23A to run on the veggie side. I'm not totally sure if my Raptor is the same one's sold other places. I have the one offered by Goldenfuel (0-60 psi), which Pureflow claims is designed around veg oil. Either way, I figure I need something rated for at least 75 in order to get it to actually deliver 65ish on veg.

This way, I only have to buy one more pump and I don't have to include an FPR, which will keep costs down a bit (though this is getting expensive quickly).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,207 Posts
...

This way, I only have to buy one more pump and I don't have to include an FPR, which will keep costs down a bit (though this is getting expensive quickly).
i found that out as well. when i found that i needed a FASS it doubeled the cost of my DIY. but at least i can take comfort in that.

you can probably sell your mech pump for a few bucks used, as well as your bowl. iirc, they go for over $200 new. the FPR alone on the thing is over $100 i believe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
Thanks for the feedback, Bruce. I think what I'm going to do is run the raptor on the diesel side and get a FASS 23A to run on the veggie side. I'm not totally sure if my Raptor is the same one's sold other places. I have the one offered by Goldenfuel (0-60 psi), which Pureflow claims is designed around veg oil. Either way, I figure I need something rated for at least 75 in order to get it to actually deliver 65ish on veg.

This way, I only have to buy one more pump and I don't have to include an FPR, which will keep costs down a bit (though this is getting expensive quickly).
PureFlow people are asses. I bought my Raptor 150 directly from them, after numerous disscusions with thier tech people about using it for WVO. I was assured that it would work and give me the pressures I was looking for (60-70psi). Yeah I don't even get close to that. I heard from reliable sources that the Raptor 100 will make about 50PSI, but the 7.3L's fuel demands at full application of the go pedal can suck it down to about 25psi. My invoice even says its going to be used for WVO on a Powerstroke, damn them!

Either Raptor should be fine on the diesel side, plenty good enough to eliminate the mechanical lift pump if you have one on your older powerstroke. I wish my Raptor would sell so I can put that money towards something worthwhile like an Adrenaline HPOP :)

You can use a fixed PSI FASS pump for your vege side. I'm using a fixed PSI one. They are internally regulated so to not make more than their rated pressure, even on WVO. Just gonna make sure you get one that is setup around WVO. They have 2 different electric motor sizes, I think the latter being EM-1002 or something like that. That is the one that has the power to move even cold VO. You can see the bracket and my fas mounting here Forums - View Single Post - Couple ?'s in a DIY system, brass, and other little things. Please DIY's chime in I'm mighty proud of that fass bracket I made since their bracket is kinda odd.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
That's a bummer about the raptor. There's been a lot of excitement about them because they offer a lifetime warranty running the raptor on SVO. Of course, if it's not holding rated pressures, then there's no warranty issue because it will be on the shelf. Mine has been great as a booster pump, but it's also overkill to be using a $400 pump as an aid to the mechanical pump. I'll be sucking it up for the FASS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
That's a bummer about the raptor. There's been a lot of excitement about them because they offer a lifetime warranty running the raptor on SVO. Of course, if it's not holding rated pressures, then there's no warranty issue because it will be on the shelf. Mine has been great as a booster pump, but it's also overkill to be using a $400 pump as an aid to the mechanical pump. I'll be sucking it up for the FASS.
check with Roverhybrids.com they had the best pricing on a FASS that I could find. Also if you need a wiring harness for the Fass I have one that I bought for my Raptor. They use the same connector. I spent $30 to get it and am looking to get some of my money back out of it, if i can't sell it with the unused Raptor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,364 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,412 Posts
Also if you need a wiring harness for the Fass
Why? I just cut the connector off and crimped it to my 10 gauge wire I am feeding it with from the relay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,364 Posts
Why? I just cut the connector off and crimped it to my 10 gauge wire I am feeding it with from the relay.

:thumb:

Same thing I did. The large wire is the secret to success. Be sure your inline fuse holder is up to the task also!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,412 Posts
Yea I learned about the fuse holders already! I need to get something better someday. those little things at autozone stink!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,364 Posts
Yea I learned about the fuse holders already! I need to get something better someday. those little things at autozone stink!

I wonder if 10AWG wire with crimped and soldered joints with a circuit breaker isn't the answer.:dunno:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,207 Posts
Mike, it was $289, looks like the price went up! crap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
roveryhybrids has the pump, brackets, and Fass supplied wiring harness with inline fuse for $457 vs USDP's $474, though the bare pump price is the same. Prolly would come down to stock and shipping costs.

My Fass is wired straight to the pass side battery. A relay there controls its on/off state as my setup is 100% manual. I have a few Altronix 6062 timer cards I picked up, and I'm planning to build a Vegistrokish automatic purge/run timer card setup, but I'll still prolly end up having the Fass run thru a fuse and relay and then the other fuse (from Fass) down near the pump. I have been giving some thought to getting some 12 or 10ga wire to build a beefier harness. I'm at about 11 feet of wire so that is between 14 and 12 ga for 30 amps, even though the pump draws alot less than that.
 
21 - 40 of 55 Posts
Top