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I was told by my mechanic that ya couldn't surface a 6.0 head but the guys on forum say other wise who is right . If so how much can ya take off and not be to much?
 

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Find a new mechanic, the dealer techs will tell you the same thing. Find a good machine shop thats surfaced them before, but if I remeber right the rule is no more than .008. I'm sure somebody who knows for sure will chime in.
 

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Yes you can and should have them decked to WITHIN TOLERANCE if they are not 100% flat when you remove them from the block. You can only machine them .005 - .008 that's thousandths by the way and there is 0 room for error or your buying new heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So if they are flat, should I still have a couple thousandths taken off?
 

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99% chance they aren't 100% flat if they haven't been pulled recently and machined. Take them off and send them to a REPUTABLE machine shop that knows their chit when it comes to 6.0 heads have them hot tanked, magged, pressure tested, checked for 100% flatness and if they are out even .001 have them decked to make them truly 100% flat.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Bryan. I need all the info I can get on this build, I've been watching yours, Nate's, and Ben's post as well as Adrian's tryin to soak it all up!
 

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It's a common myth that if the head is machined more than 8 thousandths that the head is junk it's not true the valves can be sunk into the head and the difference can be removed from the valve stems to maintain valve train geometry but if your going o the cheap yes 5-8 thousandths is the limit but if there is pitting that is deeper it has to be removed or you'll be doing the job again just make sure you use a reputable machine shop that has done a lot of 6.0 heads


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There is a reason that there are minimum tolerances for total head thickness. You not only need to cut the valves, seats and valve stems but to make sure that you don't have your valves tapping the pistons they would need cut too which would be much more costly than getting new heads if they are pitted or warped beyond the tolerance for minimum thickness.
 

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I pulled mine off and checked them. They ended up being within the limits so I didn't have them milled as I would rather have the extra meat in the surface of the head. Having the extra meat helps with flexing, and heat dissipation.
 

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Good luck on them lasting very long. Even though they were "in specs" and where checked out with a straight edge and feeler gauge and "checked out" fine doesn't mean that it will last. I hope for your sake that it does, because I for one wouldn't be very happy if I had to pay to do this job more than once, especially since I could have avoided doing it again if I had sent them to the machine shop and had them decked to make sure they were 100% flat.

The heads and gaskets is one of the most important areas to make sure that you do not skimp or cut corners cause it will cost you more money in repairs.
 

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There is a reason that there are minimum tolerances for total head thickness. You not only need to cut the valves, seats and valve stems but to make sure that you don't have your valves tapping the pistons they would need cut too which would be much more costly than getting new heads if they are pitted or warped beyond the tolerance for minimum thickness.
This is not right Bryan. For instance if you have to take .012 off to clean the heads up you could counter sink the valves say .006 and then take .006 off of the valve stem. This would maintain the valvetrain geometry and PTV clearance as though you had only decked the heads .006. Hope that makes sense to you. No need to go cutting the pistons.
 

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Yea that makes sense Mitch thanks for clarifying that for me. I knew that it was one way or the other but couldn't remember if both had to be done. I had heard of having to cut the pistons if the heads were machined to much but IIRC now that was something to do with longer push rods and cam installed or something to that effect.
 

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It was longer rods. To get the piston below the deck height they would have had to lower the compression height. Longer rods would but you "out of the hole" and kaboom:rofl: (1/2 stroke + rod length + compression height) < deck height

Also could have been the cam. To get more clearance for the valve you can cut the piston SOME but you need to be VERY careful and make sure that you are measuring the thickness of the piston. You don't want the piston to be too thin. You would regret that one!
 

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I pulled mine off and checked them. They ended up being within the limits so I didn't have them milled.....
I did the same thing a couple years ago. My weekends this month have been dedicated to replacing the head gaskets again and re-studding. Just sayin'......
 

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I did the same thing a couple years ago. My weekends this month have been dedicated to replacing the head gaskets again and re-studding. Just sayin'......
Yeah I think once the heads have seen a few heat cycles you may as well not even check them....just send them away.
New heads on the other hand you might be able to get away with sometimes, although its still a crap shoot.
 

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did studs and gaskets on my buddys 06 and 1 head took .012" and the other one took .015" no valve job and truck still runs strong with 40k on them already
 

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So if they are flat, should I still have a couple thousandths taken off?
There has been A LOT of discussion here already. I know when I was looking for a machine shop, I was told the same that the heads couldn't be machined. The fact of the matter though is that .005 of an inch is hardly enough to get all of the metal shaven on a head. The bottomline (as has been discussed and confirmed already) is that yes the heads can be machined. I recommend taking the heads to a reputable machine shop and having them checked and milled for flatness of course, pressure checked so you know everything is sealing properly, and magnafluxed for any cracks. Typically you'll have to add in a valve job with new stainless steel guides and I would also upgrade the valve springs at this point to for some extra insurance. I wish I would have done this when I did my heads back last year. I know I plan to drive my truck the way it is until either DieselSite or Stealth come out with their HPOP for the 05-07 trucks and then I'll pull the motor and built it to the hilt.
 
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