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Yup.
Front cover to upper pan T joint be my educated guess.

Have had the pleasure of doing a good handful on 2015+ trucks.
The manual instructs to do it in cab, but I've always just pulled the engine and done it on a stand. It's not a job I'd prefer to go back in on.

Yours looks like it's just sweating. Which probably at least half of them do. Probably not worth the trouble as it sits.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks...and that really sucks. Nothing else it could be I guess? Was really hopeful it wasn’t that. Why the hell do t
 

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From the hundreds that I've observed, that lower front driver side, it's always appeared to be from there.

The front cover doesn't use dowel pins. There is a clearance spec between front cover and upper pan prior to torquing.
One of the reasons i pull the engine when i do them. Trying to do that from underneath with oil dripping everywhere, and then shoe horning the silicon sealed upper pan in there is not comfortable.
 

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Book time would be in the area of 21 hours (warranty pays 14 i believe, which is typically 2/3rds what retail is).

Not much in the way of parts. There's 4 seals for the front cover plus main seal. 3 seals for upper pan. 3 seals for oil cooler. 1 seal for oil filter base. 6 torque converter nuts.
Nothing really expensive. It's all in the labor.
 

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Try this as well. Vacuum pump bolts loose possibly. After seeing this video I checked my and sure enough 2 of my 3 that are accessible were loose. I wasn't leaking oil but it would have any time probably.
https://youtu.be/ZZe9pzUcq5M
 

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Try this as well. Vacuum pump bolts loose possibly. After seeing this video I checked my and sure enough 2 of my 3 that are accessible were loose. I wasn't leaking oil but it would have any time probably.
https://youtu.be/ZZe9pzUcq5M
Yea you definitely wanna make sure it isn't coming from up top. Cuz those vacuum pump bolts are very common.
Little blue loctite on the threads before they go back in for good measure :wink:
 
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