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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There are a few options on the table as I now have over 105k miles on my early 99.

I have the following options:
  • D66 - $1400 shipped
  • Rebuild kit with new replacement wicked wheel and non wastgate 1.0 A/R exhaust housing and dp adapter $500 +/-
  • Possibly a 2.5mm larger exhaust wheel and ported compressor housing inlet - Unknown Price waiting on vendor in Puerto Rico...yuck

So im trying to pair a turbo up with a set of stage 1 160cc single shot injectors.

The D66 while being a great turbo is nearly 3x as expensive as upgrading the stock one, and I doubt stage 1's will even put it in the sweetspot. I figure a fresh rebuild with new wicked wheel, and the upgrade to a non wastegated 1.0 housing will be a pretty good setup. There is also the possibility of getting a larger exhaust wheel from a turbo shop in PR who says they performance rebuild their turbos with a 2.5mm larger exhaust wheel.

Some say the stock turbo is out of efficiency at about 30psi in stock form and that its life expectancy at that pressure is diminished. I understand that, but Im hoping a fresh rebuild and higher flowing exhaust side can help to eliminate some of the restriction and allow better flow/lower backpressure with is a factor in killing turbos.

PS: If the stock turbo performs well with the discussed upgrades and only needs a rebuild every 3 years or so Im totally ok with that. $90 spent over a few years is nothing really.

So if you're EXPERIENCED help guide me to success on a budget.

I have all the supporting mods, 6.0 IC, intake, turboback, dead head fuel fix, boost pump, TW chip, valve body...all the low budget non internal jazz. Oh and a squirt of water/meth here and there.
 

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i'm in search of a turbo too. like ASAP!!! I'm going with either Garrett ball bearing or Turbonetics. I heard that all Garrett turbo's and on some kind of back order and no one will be able to get one before the end of june. If thats the case then i'm going with Turbonetics. Whats the best, and cheapest place to get the turbonetics turbo?
 

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There are a few options on the table as I now have over 105k miles on my early 99.

I have the following options:
  • D66 - $1400 shipped
  • Rebuild kit with new replacement wicked wheel and non wastgate 1.0 A/R exhaust housing and dp adapter $500 +/-
  • Possibly a 2.5mm larger exhaust wheel and ported compressor housing inlet - Unknown Price waiting on vendor in Puerto Rico...yuck
So im trying to pair a turbo up with a set of stage 1 160cc single shot injectors.

The D66 while being a great turbo is nearly 3x as expensive as upgrading the stock one, and I doubt stage 1's will even put it in the sweetspot. I figure a fresh rebuild with new wicked wheel, and the upgrade to a non wastegated 1.0 housing will be a pretty good setup. There is also the possibility of getting a larger exhaust wheel from a turbo shop in PR who says they performance rebuild their turbos with a 2.5mm larger exhaust wheel.

Some say the stock turbo is out of efficiency at about 30psi in stock form and that its life expectancy at that pressure is diminished. I understand that, but Im hoping a fresh rebuild and higher flowing exhaust side can help to eliminate some of the restriction and allow better flow/lower backpressure with is a factor in killing turbos.

PS: If the stock turbo performs well with the discussed upgrades and only needs a rebuild every 3 years or so Im totally ok with that. $90 spent over a few years is nothing really.

So if you're EXPERIENCED help guide me to success on a budget.

I have all the supporting mods, 6.0 IC, intake, turboback, dead head fuel fix, boost pump, TW chip, valve body...all the low budget non internal jazz. Oh and a squirt of water/meth here and there.
The d66 is a no brainer. You can use up to stage 2's and will support up to 40psi.

Generally, you are correct about the stock turbo and 30psi. Most of the time, it's around 26-30psi. Anything 30+, and you run a serious risk of killing it.

I can push mine to 40psi or so, and it doesn't sound happy. If you have supporting mods, the stock turbo can push the air.. but it is not recommended.

My vote is for the d66 drop in replacement.



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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The d66 is a no brainer. You can use up to stage 2's and will support up to 40psi.

My vote is for the d66 drop in replacement.
The D66 would be a no brainer if I had $1400 sitting around to burn on just a turbo. Not to mention ideally I'd only do stage 1's. From my experience a turbo is usually at its peak efficiency within a few PSI of its max. For instance 40PSI rated means at about 35 or so its in its prime and as you approach 40 its diminishing return. This is most notable on a dyno and increasing boost 1lb at a time. Most often 1lb will nearly correlate with a certain amount of power increase. For instance my subaru reached a point at 25-26lbs where 28-29lbs only make about 1hp more. And that was after cool down and all...not simultaneous back to back pulls. There is no sense in blowing air that can't be made into power.
 

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On my last dyno run..

Early 99 stock turbo
25-27psi=380something
35psi=406hp
40-42psi=415hp.

Lots of people have been telling me 420's is about the max on this turbo.

On anyones truck (stock 7.3 turbo), I don't recommend going over 20-25psi. On the d66, you may be able to make more usable boost than you think. But I agree, 35ish psi is probably the sweet spot. Depends a lot on your mods and tunes.



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Yes it does, go to beans diesel and that where I got mine. I wanted to go with the D66, but I was about 400 short at that time, and needed my truck up and going ASAP. Kinda wish I would have waited, but I am gonna do that swap as soon as I get the funds anyhow, and sit mine on the shelf as a backup.
 

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Beans diesel perormance dot com
 

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John Wood Nut Swinger
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On my last dyno run..

Early 99 stock turbo
25-27psi=380something
35psi=406hp
40-42psi=415hp.

Lots of people have been telling me 420's is about the max on this turbo.

On anyones truck (stock 7.3 turbo), I don't recommend going over 20-25psi. On the d66, you may be able to make more usable boost than you think. But I agree, 35ish psi is probably the sweet spot. Depends a lot on your mods and tunes.
And to expound on this. Most guys see a drop in boost with stock injectors when they install the D66 due to the fact that the D66 is larger than stock and it flows more air. So it does have more usable boost and, more importantly, a lot more air than a stock turbo.

The stock D66 with stock injectors and all kinds of proper supporting mods, including proper tuning, will make 33psi of boost in an early99. And yes, this is first hand experience, not some foretold story.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The stock D66 with stock injectors and all kinds of proper supporting mods, including proper tuning, will make 33psi of boost in an early99. And yes, this is first hand experience, not some foretold story.
So is it safe to say that there is a worthwhile performance increase ($1300+) worth in doing a D66 on a stock injected eary 99 with supporting mods?

Turbos are much easier to change than injectors!
 

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My turbo was nearly worn out, cheepest rebuild was about $350. I figure an additional grand is not bad for an upgrade to the D66. The combo of Tony's chip and injectors plus the D66 is truely impressive. Other turbo options are close to $2,000.
 

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As I said in the injector post when you asked about turbos as well, rebuilding your stock turbo is just wasteing money unless it's bad. Check the shaft end play. It should be .001-.004". If it's got more than that then it needs to be rebuilt. If the wheel isn't nicked up, broken or bent then swapping in a new one is going to do absolutly nothing for you. Turbos aren't like a pistona and cylender where the rings wear as they go up and down the cylender walls. The journal rides on a film of oil so there is virtually no wear on it unless you do something like overspool it. Check the condition of your turbo now before you waste money on it.

A 1.0 non wastegated housing would be a downgrade and I don't think they actually make one for it anyway. The flange where the up pipe collector is round as opposed to the square one on the '94-'97 that the .84 and 1.0 non wastegated housings are for. The whole point of the wasteged housing is so that you can run a smaller housing so that it spools up quicker then when it gets to the desired boost it will open and let the excess drive pressure out and keep from overspooling the turbo. Before you go about swapping housings out check the drive pressure and see if you need to. If not you are just going to slow down how quick your turbo spools. The other reason you might want to go to a larger housing would be if you have a surging problem with your turbo which the earlier turbos didnt' have.

Unfortunatly unless you want to swap over to the later turbo mounting and plumbing the D66 is the only drop in replacment. There seems to be a lot of guys happy with them but there are a handfull of them that have poped from guys trying to push them to hard with bigger injectors. They seem to be OK for the smaller 160cc injectors but much more than that and they won't hold up. Basically they are a stock turbo with a bigger wheel so you are putting more load on the shaft than it was designed for. And you are still useing the stock bushings which is what likes to go out on the stock turbos if you push them to hard. Unfortunately the only other option is to spend a little more money to get a true upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
A 1.0 non wastegated housing would be a downgrade and I don't think they actually make one for it anyway. The flange where the up pipe collector is round as opposed to the square one on the '94-'97 that the .84 and 1.0 non wastegated housings are for.
I'm not sure you have a clue as to what you're talking about regarding this!!!

99-03turbo
Also
eBay Motors: 99 03 TURBO 7.3 POWERSTROKE TURBOCHARGER PERFORMANCE (item 310044819773 end time May-25-08 09:54:43 PDT)

On the topic of turbos...if exhaust housings don't make a difference why does garrett sell different size housings? How come on my Subaru going from a 7cm to an 8cm housing made about 30extra hp and only spools 150rpm slower?

I don't understand how anyone can say a larger housing is not an upgrade in overall flow.
 

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John Wood Nut Swinger
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The D66 is guaranteed for up to stage 2 injectors and 400hp. I did not blow mine up with B codes and I know a couple other guys running B codes with a D66 as well. In addition there are numerous trucks out there with hybrids running a D66. I know of three(3) that have popped and Bean made good on them immediately. Bean has a 1.0 non waste gated housing for a 99-03 turbo and no, it is not just for the OBS turbos.

Another reason to go from a .84 to a 1.0 housing is to drop the EGT's while towing. It worked very efficiently in dropping my EGT's 200* while towing in the mountains.

Keep Strokin'
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You got me! I didn't realize they were makeing a downgraded 1.0 nonwastegated housing for those.
YOU IDIOT! Haha just kidding...you've been throwing in some great info for all of us to put to use. :thumb:

The D66 is guaranteed for up to stage 2 injectors and 400hp. I did not blow mine up with B codes and I know a couple other guys running B codes with a D66 as well. In addition there are numerous trucks out there with hybrids running a D66. I know of three(3) that have popped and Bean made good on them immediately. Bean has a 1.0 non waste gated housing for a 99-03 turbo and no, it is not just for the OBS turbos.

Another reason to go from a .84 to a 1.0 housing is to drop the EGT's while towing. It worked very efficiently in dropping my EGT's 200* while towing in the mountains.

Keep Strokin'
So Strokin...is the 1.0 housing a solid upgrade for a person who doesnt have 1300 to spend on a D66 and has a stock turbo in good condition? I don't tow too much, but lower EGTs and better performance would be great. Is more power made with simply the swap to the larger housing? :dunno:

PS when I do this my Pac Brake will be coming off. Hint hint *for sale*
 

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There are several guys out there running hybrids with a stock turbo and not blowing them up either. There was a thread awhile back on another forum that the reliability of the turbos came up. bean claimed he had two that poped. Then people started comming out of the woodwork who had problems as well.

200° drop in EGTs is a big stretch for an exhaust housing. Especially when you are backing up more exhaust at the higher rpms. The other question would be did you have your wastegate unplugged before the swap? I've seen it on a few occastions where guys THINK they will get more power if they make more boost and unplug their wastegate and are proud that they can make more boost. Later they hook it back up only to find they actually make more power and get better mileage with it operating as intended. If you are running in the mid range of your rpms in the mountains and you aren't having issues with excessive drive pressures the smaller housing will spool more at lower rpms making more boost at lower rpms and make les EGTs. But if you are running bigger injectors and your drive pressures are getting high that's when you run into higher EGTs. If you are running B codes then you are flowing WAY more fuel and way more exhaust so the larger housing probably did help some. But if you had a wastegated housing it would help even more.
 

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The 1.0 housing will change to power band to higher in the RPM range by about 200RPM so you will loose some of the low end power. However it is picked up on the top end, and yes it can be felt, it feel like it just keeps pulling up to 3000RPM instead of feeling like it falls on it's face above 2600-2800RPM.
 
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