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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, yesterday I started upgrading the factory stereo on my 2017 F250 Platinum but I have some questions. My goal is to do a full system upgrade minus the head unit. Yesterday i applied some Soundskins to all four doors and replaced the factory speakers with Focal components in the front, Focal K2 coax on rear doors. I plan to replace factory amp with Audio Control D6.1200 once is released so for now the factory Sony amps is powering the we speakers. So now to my questions :

1. Is it ok to use the factory speaker wiring even with aftermarket amps?

2. Anyone knows the factory Sony system frequency range for tweeters ?

Currently the Focal tweeters are not connected since I’m not sure if they’ll get fried if I connect them to factory tweeter wires. I will not be using the Focal crossovers since I can set my own crossover points with the aftermarket amp. In the mean time I would like to power the Focal tweeters with the factory amp. Is this possible?

Thank you!
 

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For frequency you may want to google search an audio forum... as for the wiring, most will argue its not the "best" but it will certainly work.
 

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Hello everyone, yesterday I started upgrading the factory stereo on my 2017 F250 Platinum but I have some questions. My goal is to do a full system upgrade minus the head unit. Yesterday i applied some Soundskins to all four doors and replaced the factory speakers with Focal components in the front, Focal K2 coax on rear doors. I plan to replace factory amp with Audio Control D6.1200 once is released so for now the factory Sony amps is powering the we speakers. So now to my questions :

1. Is it ok to use the factory speaker wiring even with aftermarket amps?

2. Anyone knows the factory Sony system frequency range for tweeters ?

Currently the Focal tweeters are not connected since I’m not sure if they’ll get fried if I connect them to factory tweeter wires. I will not be using the Focal crossovers since I can set my own crossover points with the aftermarket amp. In the mean time I would like to power the Focal tweeters with the factory amp. Is this possible?

Thank you!

checkout crutchfield. They usually have everything you need from kits, wire harness adapters, and everything really lol. I upgraded my sound system on my 1999 and their speakers came with the wire harness adapters, din adapters, wire harness from my 19 year old ford to a nice kenwood system etc.
 

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california deplorable
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my biggest input is
@mhatlen :hehe:
i guess i can add i got a Kenwood a year or so ago and aside from having a stereo that wants me to log in :doh:
i love the thing :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I’m regards to the wiring, is this something that could make such a difference that can possibly affect the sound quality if deciding to use factory wires?
 

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The factory tweeters are protected by an inline capacitor. You can't just ask what frequency the factory tweeters play at and expect the Focals to play at the same frequency as they most likely have a different impedance. I recommend you replace them with whatever Focal recommends for protecting those tweeters. This is good insurance on an active system.

Since you have the Sony system, you should consider bypassing it with the AmpPro AP4-FD21. Sony definitely cuts lower frequencies to protect their crappy speakers.

The factory wires will not affect sound quality, but may limit output a little. You are going to need to run new wires to the tweeters as the factory piggy backs them off the front doors (meaning you will have to reinstall the capacitors on the new wires or pre-plan and do it now with lots of extra wire under the dash).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Kreep, thanks for your response; yes my ultimate goal is to completely bypass the factory Sony amp as it is the amp what has the stupid crossover curves that tend to cut back on bass as you increase the volume on these Sony premium systems. But in my case Im upgrading not all at once and since I already installed the speakers I was hoping to get to listen to the new speakers powered by the factory system while I save for the rest of the components. Besides Im still awaiting for Audio Control to release their new D6.1200 amp. I called AD today and the projected release date is July 15th. I guess ill have to wait until i get the rest of the components before I can listen to these speakers they correct way.
 

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That's a good plan. I suspect you would have to crank the volume with the Sony amp and run the risk of clipping. No sense damaging your new speakers. I do recommend you get some caps to protect the tweeters, its way to easy to accidently set the crossover too low and pop them...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Kreep, I was thinking of doing that but I’m not sure which caps to get that would do the trick. And yes if I set the volume past 20 I can tell there is a little distortion. So right now I’m not really cranking the volume too much in order to protect the new speaker sets.
 

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Focal tech support can tell you. There are also online calculators.

Unfortunately my post count isn't high enough to embed links, so hopefully your Google-Fu is up to the task.
 

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Hello everyone, yesterday I started upgrading the factory stereo on my 2017 F250 Platinum but I have some questions. My goal is to do a full system upgrade minus the head unit. Yesterday i applied some Soundskins to all four doors and replaced the factory speakers with Focal components in the front, Focal K2 coax on rear doors. I plan to replace factory amp with Audio Control D6.1200 once is released so for now the factory Sony amps is powering the we speakers. So now to my questions :



1. Is it ok to use the factory speaker wiring even with aftermarket amps?



2. Anyone knows the factory Sony system frequency range for tweeters ?



Currently the Focal tweeters are not connected since I’m not sure if they’ll get fried if I connect them to factory tweeter wires. I will not be using the Focal crossovers since I can set my own crossover points with the aftermarket amp. In the mean time I would like to power the Focal tweeters with the factory amp. Is this possible?



Thank you!
Hey traxx2003, I just purchased and installed Focal K2 components for the front doors of my truck(2017 F250 Lariat) and purchased k2 coaxials (not yet installed) on the rear doors powered by a Helix DSP PRO MK2. I also purchased two Focal Flax 10 inch subwoofers to go under my rear seat powered by JL HD 600/1. Also currently have a Linkswell 12 inch screen installed in the dash. Everything is hooked up and installed except for my rear door speakers.

My question to you......... how well does your system sound and how is everything since you've added your Focal speakers in the rear. I keep seeing where some are complaining about the soundstage messing up when adding speakers to the rear without a DSP.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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I wish there was a competent shop around me that would tackle this for me. I worked in car stereo through high school back in the late 90's and early 2000's and its a true statement that manufacturers are for sure making things harder to modify how we sound junkies want them.

anyone have any luck with Best Buy audio department installs? now a days I just assume pay someone to do it if they will do it properly.
 

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I wish there was a competent shop around me that would tackle this for me. I worked in car stereo through high school back in the late 90's and early 2000's and its a true statement that manufacturers are for sure making things harder to modify how we sound junkies want them.

anyone have any luck with Best Buy audio department installs? now a days I just assume pay someone to do it if they will do it properly.
I wouldn’t trust the Best Buy numbnuts to install a bumper sticker. I’ve seen their work in friends’ cars. It’s pretty complex integrating aftermarket components with modern cars and making it actually sound good, but you can figure it out by reading online and stealing ideas from other installs. Lol There’s a lot of good stuff in the Focus and F-150 forums, and the stuff you need is just about the same as the super duty. I have a Taurus SHO and the wife has a Flex with Sync 3. Both are set up identically on the factory integration. I’ve had awesome results with the PAC AP4-FD21 mentioned earlier in this thread. If you like a hiss free, awesome sounding system the add on optical module and a dedicated dsp are a must.

There are competent shops out there, but they are few and far between. I couldn’t find one and just did it myself. I’ll be tackling a pretty big stereo upgrade to my new 19 F250 as soon as I can get rid of my old truck to fund it. If you’re not in too big a hurry, I’ll post a thread about what worked for me.
 

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Both are set up identically on the factory integration. I’ve had awesome results with the PAC AP4-FD21 mentioned earlier in this thread. If you like a hiss free, awesome sounding system the add on optical module and a dedicated dsp are a must.

There are competent shops out there, but they are few and far between. I couldn’t find one and just did it myself. I’ll be tackling a pretty big stereo upgrade to my new 19 F250 as soon as I can get rid of my old truck to fund it. If you’re not in too big a hurry, I’ll post a thread about what worked for me.
ive been out of car audio for quire some time, im not familiar with the acronyms you mentioned...
and yes im not n a big hurry, I was going to ask if you'd not part number of wire harness adapters and suck as well as take a lot of photos...


Ideally, I would like to add a sub woofer box in the back under the rear seats in place of the plastic storage area... also upgrade all the door speakers. not against a 4 channel amp for the door speakers if needed but would rather just replace them and leave them run off the factory system so just add an amp for sub woofers and use a line in converter to draw high level input to the sub amp...

makes since to me,,,
 

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ive been out of car audio for quire some time, im not familiar with the acronyms you mentioned...
and yes im not n a big hurry, I was going to ask if you'd not part number of wire harness adapters and suck as well as take a lot of photos...


Ideally, I would like to add a sub woofer box in the back under the rear seats in place of the plastic storage area... also upgrade all the door speakers. not against a 4 channel amp for the door speakers if needed but would rather just replace them and leave them run off the factory system so just add an amp for sub woofers and use a line in converter to draw high level input to the sub amp...

makes since to me,,,
You mean dsp? It stands for digital signal processing. The factory Ford system whether it’s Sony or B & O uses an integrated amplifier/DSP module that all the audio from the warning chimes, button beeps, backup alarms, and stereo come from. It processes the stereo audio to compensate for the crappy factory speakers. It also removes bass as you go up in volume so it doesn’t blow aforementioned crappy factory speakers. This is the reason line output converters don’t work well. You have to get a clean preamp signal with the processing removed. The PAC AP4-FD21 does this. It plugs in with a T harness between the ACM (audio control module) and the APIM (accessory protocol interface module). You get 4 channels of flat output with a subwoofer output and control knob plus a remote amplifier turn on. Then everything works just like you remember from the old days with amp gains, crossover settings, etc.

If you want to go further and tailor your sound exactly like you want it, you can install a dedicated DSP and set it up with a laptop. You can control frequency, delays, phase, crossover slopes, graphic and parametric eq settings, etc. If you’re really picky about sound, this is the way to go. There’s quite a bit to it, but basically you start off with pink noise and use a real time analyzer app on your phone to adjust everything where it’s pretty flat with no big dips or peaks in the frequency response curve. Then once you have your baseline, you tweak it until it sounds best to you. The delays are computed for you. You just measure the distance from each speaker to your ears. The phase adjustments are something you just play with. For example, in my wife’s Flex, I installed a better sub in the factory box in back and also two subs under the front seats. With them phased together, the bass was rather unremarkable. I flipped the front subs 180 out from the back, and the bass doubled. It’s the same as flipping the polarity on a speaker. You just do it in software. Doing things that seem like the opposite of what you’d want but often make it sound better. It’s caused by acoustic reflections, resonance, and 1000 other things I don’t understand. Lol DSP makes it as simple as clicking a mouse to do things that would take hours of soldering, unscrewing wires, etc.
 

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the second half of your reply sounds complicated as **** to me... but the first portion with grabbing signs, before it gets to the APIM sounds pretty straight forward.

I assume all these components are a pain in the *** to get to? ill look up the PAC AP4-FD21 for sure.

thanks a ton.
Jake
 

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and in with doing it this way I will want to add a 4ch amp for the mid and high range speakers it appears...
@tech10002 I would love to see the sub woofers and under seat enclosures you used. especially the one to replace the rear factory one.

man some drawings and wiring diagrams would be baller.
 

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I wish there was a competent shop around me that would tackle this for me. I worked in car stereo through high school back in the late 90's and early 2000's and its a true statement that manufacturers are for sure making things harder to modify how we sound junkies want them.

anyone have any luck with Best Buy audio department installs? now a days I just assume pay someone to do it if they will do it properly.
i will preface by saying i am NO expert in the field by any stretch of the imagination but NO... DO NOT TRUST BEST BUY TO DO ANYTHING BUT BUTCHER YOUR SYSTEM
i went and talked to the installer at the one in reno and after finding that after not having done an install in 30 years i still knew more about what was required than their so called professional...plus i saved 75 bucks by going to the best stereo shop in reno nv even after buying a good lunch while they did the work for me :thumb:


You mean dsp? It stands for digital signal processing. The factory Ford system whether it’s Sony or B & O uses an integrated amplifier/DSP module that all the audio from the warning chimes, button beeps, backup alarms, and stereo come from. It processes the stereo audio to compensate for the crappy factory speakers. It also removes bass as you go up in volume so it doesn’t blow aforementioned crappy factory speakers. This is the reason line output converters don’t work well. You have to get a clean preamp signal with the processing removed. The PAC AP4-FD21 does this. It plugs in with a T harness between the ACM (audio control module) and the APIM (accessory protocol interface module). You get 4 channels of flat output with a subwoofer output and control knob plus a remote amplifier turn on. Then everything works just like you remember from the old days with amp gains, crossover settings, etc.

If you want to go further and tailor your sound exactly like you want it, you can install a dedicated DSP and set it up with a laptop. You can control frequency, delays, phase, crossover slopes, graphic and parametric eq settings, etc. If you’re really picky about sound, this is the way to go. There’s quite a bit to it, but basically you start off with pink noise and use a real time analyzer app on your phone to adjust everything where it’s pretty flat with no big dips or peaks in the frequency response curve. Then once you have your baseline, you tweak it until it sounds best to you. The delays are computed for you. You just measure the distance from each speaker to your ears. The phase adjustments are something you just play with. For example, in my wife’s Flex, I installed a better sub in the factory box in back and also two subs under the front seats. With them phased together, the bass was rather unremarkable. I flipped the front subs 180 out from the back, and the bass doubled. It’s the same as flipping the polarity on a speaker. You just do it in software. Doing things that seem like the opposite of what you’d want but often make it sound better. It’s caused by acoustic reflections, resonance, and 1000 other things I don’t understand. Lol DSP makes it as simple as clicking a mouse to do things that would take hours of soldering, unscrewing wires, etc.
good info right thee thanks man. i did my first install in 74. things have changed A LOT since then to say the least.
that said i am a fan of total replacement with integrated and compatible components.
i have to replace the stereo in the wifes caddy at some point and will try to reference this post for info thank man.

also yes i replace the wiring but if the wires are a decent quality and size to carry a good signal you should have no issues. its the custom signal clipping stuff that messes up your sound quality as was mentioned here and earlier. if anyone plays guitar etc a basic distortion box simply clips the signal and that is where the distortion comes from so in an effort to try to keep people from blowing out their speakers the audio industry has modified signal in a few ways and it in my opinion does degrade sound quality i like to be able to adjust everything as i like and if i crank it to where i am destroying my speakers its on me not to be an idiot...
everything has to be stOOOPid roof these days...
i say remove the labels and let the problem sort itself out >:)
ok...rant over :D
 

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the second half of your reply sounds complicated as **** to me... but the first portion with grabbing signs, before it gets to the APIM sounds pretty straight forward.

I assume all these components are a pain in the *** to get to? ill look up the PAC AP4-FD21 for sure.

thanks a ton.
Jake
It’s really not as bad as it sounds. I’m an electronics tech by trade, so I do have some experience with this sort of stuff but my audio experience is all homebrew. I grew up putting stereos in mine and my buddies cars. Everything I know about system tuning I learned from reading articles online and playing around with my system. The dsp intimidated the hell out of me when I first played with them. Here’s a good article on dsp tuning. https://testgear.audiofrog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/A-Straightforward-Stereo-Tuning-Process-and-Some-Notes-About-Why-it-Works.pdf When they talk about an rta, you can substitute a phone app from Audiocontrol called Mobile Tools. There is a calibrated microphone you can buy that turns your phone into a credible real time analyzer, but I just used the app with my phones microphone, and it worked fine. I’ll post a couple pics from my Taurus install. I have dozens but it’ll only let me upload 5. The super duty should be much easier though as JL audio makes a couple different under seat stealthboxes so you don’t have to build a box.

The APIM and ASM couldn’t be easier to get to. Here’s a video on the F-150.
Super Duty should be basically the same. It was a royal pain in the arse in my Taurus. I had to take the entire dash apart. The factory speaker wiring works fine by the way. I’m running over 800 watts rms in my Taurus with the amp pro accessory harness hooked straight to my amp and plugged into the factory harness from the Sony amp and it sounds phenomenal. I peaked the amp gains with an oscilloscope and have almost no loss, zero clipping, and a perfect sine wave on every channel using a 1khz test tone at -5dB.
 

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If you are using components, you should have a crossover that comes with them so the factory tweeter and your frequency/output concerns won't matter. I have always used the factory speaker wire since they work fine. If you were going for an audio competition where output and clarity really matter to that much detail then run aftermarket wire, but for the everyday install you will still get plenty out of the factory speaker wire. Don't run the factory speakers on an aftermarket amp (believe that was somewhere in your post).
 
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