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Discussion Starter #1
I have been having some major issues with my steering and most was due to laziness and procrastination on my part. Now Im trying to get it all straightened out and Im still struggling.

New OE draglink and alignment

Flushed 1 gallon of Merc LV through the system 2 separate times (should I switch out to Merc5?)



I have this interment problem while just cruising down the road trying to maintain my lane. The steering wheel will feel like it hits a "wall" and then pushes through and sends me towards the other lane then I correct it and does the same thing the other way.

It can act pretty normal for miles at a time then act up for miles at a time.

Any ideas?

Im going to rev it up to 2,000 and check the steering side to side again and see if its smooth.
 

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Ayup --- front axle u-joint is bound up

Lock the hubs in and drive the truck, you should notice an immediate difference

mine has had those same symptoms
 

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Been driving mine with the hubs locked in for over a month now, will need to pull the axles before winter comes

with the truck darting from one side to the other it was dangerous to drive -- with the hubs locked, the drive smoothed out in a couple of days -- the joints still need to be replaced tho -- I'm sure they are dry and rusty inside
 

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This speaks to the importance of using the 4wd. I believe that you should lock in and use the 4wd on a monthly basis.

Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks fellas, im going to go drive it now.

Is there a specific brand U-joint I should buy?
 

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Get joints with a grease zerk -- Spicer
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What other parts will I need, just the axle seals? I did a wheel bearing but it has been a while now and I cant remember.
 

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I have been having some major issues with my steering and most was due to laziness and procrastination on my part. Now Im trying to get it all straightened out and Im still struggling.

New OE draglink and alignment

Flushed 1 gallon of Merc LV through the system 2 separate times (should I switch out to Merc5?)



I have this interment problem while just cruising down the road trying to maintain my lane. The steering wheel will feel like it hits a "wall" and then pushes through and sends me towards the other lane then I correct it and does the same thing the other way.

It can act pretty normal for miles at a time then act up for miles at a time.

Any ideas?

Im going to rev it up to 2,000 and check the steering side to side again and see if its smooth.
You are using LV for the power steering? I know some folks that have done it, but I wouldn't use it there.
 

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Here are the spec sheets. LV is quite a bit thinner.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Can you guys tell me with which seals I will be needing? I remember when I changed out the wheel bearing there was an issue of some kind. Maybe two different seals being "updated" with only one seal? The truck is an 06'
 

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If you have vacuum operated hubs you should replace I think 3 seals, they are the wheel bearing o-ring, the inner wheel bearing seal(should have installation tool for this seal), and the outer axle seal at the end of the tube-may have updated the design from original
Also just FYI check you ball joints really good. You are going to be right there, I usually change the ball joints anyways because of the cost of the seals and time. And if I am doing the ball joints it automatically gets a new axle joint. Just my preference cause I only want to do it once.

If your not in a big hurry check ebay for a kit that includes everything, there is a company thats sells the kit pretty much all spicer parts and reasonable. I have used them a few times and have not been disappointed yet. FWIW
 

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You can mod a couple pieces of pvc pipe to use as the install drivers for that large seal -- and some denatured alcohol for lube on the outside of the seal

Several vids on the tube to see how to remove the axle -- squirt some of the aforementioned lube on the old seal and a large prybar will pop the seal and axle right out
 

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You can mod a couple pieces of pvc pipe to use as the install drivers for that large seal -- and some denatured alcohol for lube on the outside of the seal

Several vids on the tube to see how to remove the axle -- squirt some of the aforementioned lube on the old seal and a large prybar will pop the seal and axle right out
I am sure you can make a tool that works but if you screw up the seal its probably more expensive buying another seal then if you bought the right tool on amazon for 50-60 bucks and it makes great paper weight LOL
And what is your time worth going to get the pipe you need and then making a tool?
Just my way of thinking
 

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Pretty much just a hand press into the bore -- the tool just helps to keep the seal square

Each to their own I suppose, tho thinking one must own a special use tool, for one use is a waste for most homeowner/mechanics

denatured alcohol is useful to lube the rubber coated seal surface, then evaporate to allow it to stick in place -- never use oil on the seal surfaces, unless you want the seal to move where ever it wants later
 
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