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Discussion Starter #1
2006 F-350 6.0L PSD 4x4 SRW Crew Cab long box with about 130K on it.

It all started with an oil leak coming from the top of the trans. on the back side of othe engine. Long story short... I was driving home from work when at a red light it shut down, cranck/no start. Looked under the truck and it pissed a S#!% ton of oil out. Had truck, towed home. After further inspection I find a large crack in the rear engine cover, just above the bell housing. I take a photo of the crack and take it to the 'steal'ership to get a part number and some advice. The tech said it looked like somebody was prying on it, and that it was going to be a pain in the *** to work on. THANKS. They put together a part list for me:

Quantity FORD Part Number Description Price NET
1 3C3Z-6A642-CA Oil Cooler $ 420.48
2 3C3Z-9439-AA Intake Manifold Gasket $ 38.10
1 3C3Z-9433-AB Gasket Kit $ 97.18
1 5C3Z-9F452-ARM EGR Valve $ 253.85
1 EGR Core $ 30.00
1 3C3Z-6G091-A Cover - Rear $ 380.56
1 3C3Z-6619-EA Gasket $ 22.68

Subtotal: $ 1,242.85
Tax $ 72.77
PAY THIS AMOUNT: $ 1,315.62

I found got all this same part numbers for like $890 from a dealer on ebay. Anyway, I'm into my tear down. I've got the tranny and the rear cover out. I see that (what I now know is the) STC fitting has failed and rubbed, bumped, and smashed through the rear cover. I'm learning so much about the 6.0 as I get deeper into this So I need to order one of those redesigned STC fitting. Today I did the top side and got all the way down to both the oil cooler cover and the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP). So at this point the intake manifold is out. Thats where I am as of tonight. During the tear down I found the last 'Ahole' to work on it lost two turbo compressor bolts and the o-ring had popped out where the bolts were missing. I found one of them, but there sure is a lot of grease all up on my engine. Anyway, I guess I'll have to take that apart and put a new seal in. I figure while I am in this deep I will pull the valve covers and check the Dummy Plugs. I know they updated them and I want to make sure I have the new ones. I'm not stuck or anything, but I was wondering if anybody had any words of advice, tips, comments, concerns, anything really. Especially on how to properly prime the systems would be awesome. I took a lot of photos during the tear down too, but its too late to download them and post them. I'm gonna be back at it tomorrow morning, I'm trying to get this done as fast as I can but I want to do it right if I'm gonna be in this deep.

Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
 

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I see you are replacing the egr valve also, most of the time they just need cleaned but the best option is to delete the egr if you don't have emissions testing in you area. The intake manifold gasket is reusable if you want to save a little money.
 

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You may want to check with Tousley Ford in White Bear Lake, MN for the OEM oil cooler. I got mine from them 5 months ago for $259 shipped. The intake gasket is reusable like mentioned. So that's already a nearly $200 savings right there..
 

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2006 F-350 6.0L PSD 4x4 SRW Crew Cab long box with about 130K on it.

It all started with an oil leak coming from the top of the trans. on the back side of othe engine. Long story short... I was driving home from work when at a red light it shut down, cranck/no start. Looked under the truck and it pissed a S#!% ton of oil out. Had truck, towed home. After further inspection I find a large crack in the rear engine cover, just above the bell housing. I take a photo of the crack and take it to the 'steal'ership to get a part number and some advice. The tech said it looked like somebody was prying on it, and that it was going to be a pain in the *** to work on. THANKS. They put together a part list for me:

Quantity FORD Part Number Description Price NET
1 3C3Z-6A642-CA Oil Cooler $ 420.48
2 3C3Z-9439-AA Intake Manifold Gasket $ 38.10
1 3C3Z-9433-AB Gasket Kit $ 97.18
1 5C3Z-9F452-ARM EGR Valve $ 253.85
1 EGR Core $ 30.00
1 3C3Z-6G091-A Cover - Rear $ 380.56
1 3C3Z-6619-EA Gasket $ 22.68

Subtotal: $ 1,242.85
Tax $ 72.77
PAY THIS AMOUNT: $ 1,315.62

I found got all this same part numbers for like $890 from a dealer on ebay. Anyway, I'm into my tear down. I've got the tranny and the rear cover out. I see that (what I now know is the) STC fitting has failed and rubbed, bumped, and smashed through the rear cover. I'm learning so much about the 6.0 as I get deeper into this So I need to order one of those redesigned STC fitting. Today I did the top side and got all the way down to both the oil cooler cover and the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP). So at this point the intake manifold is out. Thats where I am as of tonight. During the tear down I found the last 'Ahole' to work on it lost two turbo compressor bolts and the o-ring had popped out where the bolts were missing. I found one of them, but there sure is a lot of grease all up on my engine. Anyway, I guess I'll have to take that apart and put a new seal in. I figure while I am in this deep I will pull the valve covers and check the Dummy Plugs. I know they updated them and I want to make sure I have the new ones. I'm not stuck or anything, but I was wondering if anybody had any words of advice, tips, comments, concerns, anything really. Especially on how to properly prime the systems would be awesome. I took a lot of photos during the tear down too, but its too late to download them and post them. I'm gonna be back at it tomorrow morning, I'm trying to get this done as fast as I can but I want to do it right if I'm gonna be in this deep.

Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
Oil coolers can be had for around $220 on ebay. Not sure what the gasket kit is?? Intake gaskets are reusable. Rear cover gets torqued to 18 LB/FT. Also you might want to check into finding out if you can borrow or rent a rear main seal wear sleeve puller and rear main seal installer tool. To buy them it is around $500. EGR valves can be found without a core charge on ebay for pretty cheap as well. I just did a engine swap for a customer (he is also a member here). Here is a link to the thread. Hopefully it will help answer any questions you may have.

http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/392297-bending-2-pushrods-number-8-a.html
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Up-date...

So today progress was a little slower, I replaced the STC fitting and when I went to attach it to the branch tube, the bolt holes would not line up. The branch tube 'box' is sticking out to far. So I'm trying to remove the branch tube now. I've got the valve covers off, the "W" rail or HP oil rail. I also got injectors #6, 7, & 8 out.

any advice on the best way to get the rockers off and access the branch tube hold down bolts? It sounds like a ***** to get at. Much appreciation to all the help, you guys rock!!

Also, anybody know where I can get a turbo seal kit? I'm missing two compressor bolts and that large o-ring seal between the compressor and main housing has popped out... Thanks
 

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As already mentioned, check Tousley Ford. (which I just noticed they have changed their name.. It is now AutoNation Ford.. hope their parts pricing doesn't change)
Here is a link to the turbo mounting kit
the newest style turbo oil supply
latest style turbo oil drain all three for under $110.
Add in the oil cooler kit (cooler, gaskets) for an additional $277.52 and I will bet that even with shipping, that will come in under what you got quoted for just the oil cooler...
 

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3,571 Posts
There was no reason to pull the injectors, was there? As well, the branch tubes should be fine, unless you had damage. The STC comes with an alignment kit as part of the overall kit. The rear covers can be bought on eBay or from an auto recycler at reasonable price. I changed one out when I did an engine swap 4 years ago. It was fairly straight forward. I hear the new crank seal is much better than the old one (mine never leaked), but it does require the special tool to install it without damage, or it will leak. If you have to buy one, they can be had for about $130.

Make sure you clean everything well before you break into it. The RTV sealant is a must at the intersection of the back section and the top where the pump compartment sits.

The turbo bolts and seals can be purchased with a complete reseal kit. Again, not very expensive if you look around (eBay). The less expensive kit ($55) does not come with compressor housing bolts. You might be able to find some if a recycler has a trashed turbo sitting around. You could always just use a similar metric bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I found a turbo seal kit with the bolts on ebay for like $100. I am having a tough time finding a part number for that branch tube. everything I search for comes bach to the STC fitting or the stand pipes. I know I definatly need to replace the branch tube because it is way out of alignment to the STC fitting, and if I put the rear cover back on, it still presses up against the cover. If I torq it down I am going to crack my new cover. So the branch tube must come out. I'm hearing different things about what has to happen to get it out. Some say the engine has to come out. some say the heads have to come out. according the workshop manual section 303-04C-5 "position a 10 inch long x 1/4 inch wovvle extention with a T27 torx bit through the cylinder number 7 exhaust push rod hole and loosen the highpressure oil branch tube hold down bolt." it also says... "it may be necessary to acccess th bolts through the standpipe hole. The extension will be on a slight angle and a second technician is required under the vehicle in the rear cover area, to observe and guide the socket onto the head of the hold down bolt." and "if the torx bit is dropped it will be neccessary to remove the cylinder head to retrieve it." So it sounds like I don't have to remove the head OR the engine. It is just going to be a PITA... Any thoughts are welcome, thanks for all your help guys, this forum rocks. And the part # for that branch tube or where I can get one for a reasonable price would be great. Thanks agian.
 

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FYI the STC fitting does n't have to be threaded in all the way.. try 5 turns in.. there is an alignment tool to match the STC and the branch tube etc.. it should be included in your STC update kit.....Try 5 turns in on the STC , supposedly that gets it to correct alignment depth..check that if you threaded the STC fully into HPOP it won't align with the branch tube. I will post a link to a you tube video showing this.
Thanks,
Deo
 

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This Tech is excellant, he has many useful videos,
DieselTechRon - YouTube

This one shows the alignment tool in use

Hope these help you!,
thanks,
Deo
 
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