Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hokay,

The truck was sitting all summer long. The fuel tank was filled up before it was parked.

I went to start it on Sunday and of coarse the batteries were dead. So I gave it a jump start and she fired up after cranking over a little longer than she usually would...rightfully so after sitting all summer.

After the truck started I took it for a good drive and kept her running for a little over an hour. Once I parked it and shut it down and I restarted it to make sure the batteries were holding a charge...they were and she fired right back up.

So on Monday I went to start her up again and it would just crank over...no signs of starting. The batteries did seem to be a bit weak but they should have had enough jam for a start. So after about 15 seconds of cranking I stopped and let her sit for a couple of minutes to let the starter cool and I repeated the process about 6 times unitl the batteries died. I hooked up the cables again, while it was charging I took apart the fuel filter to make sure she was getting fuel...and it was. So I hopped back in and this time she started but stalled immediately. After a couple more tries she actually started and stayed running. Again I took it for a good ride and before a I parked it for the day I shut it down and re-started it with no problems.

So today I went to move her around again and the same problem persisted. It seems to strat fine when the engine has been running and is hot but not so much on a cold start. The temp outside is about 65 so glow plugs really shouldnt be an issue.

The truck is thowing no codes. Could this be a CPS or HPOP issue? I replaced 3 injectors last winter and when it is actually running it runs smooth with no hiccups or loss of power. I'm stumpped:doh:

Side note...the truck has about 85000 miles and I am running 15w40 rotella with ford filters for warmer weather use.

lol' help??:dunno:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
922 Posts
Battery problems are scary as they can cook other components like the FICM and injectors. I was having battery issues and it ate my FICM. Only way I knew was my CTS. There is a way you can test the voltage of your FICM but you will need to search as I don't remember where it is.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,154 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
Bad batteries were the problem with my FICM.....But mine had no issues like yours.... But sounds as if your batetries are toast.... I would test the batteries. Or if you have some you can pull out of another vehicle and test the starting problem with them after it has sat for a day or two...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Just tested the batteries after it sitting for 24hrs...they're down to 11.5 :tard:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Did the FICM test. She sat at 46-46.5 when the truck was in the run position, and jumped up to little over 47 when I started to crank it. Good news is it's not the FICM, bad news truck is still having problems starting :doh:
 

·
Compression Ignition Addict
Joined
·
7,130 Posts
Good voltage does not necessarily mean that the FICM is good.

Bad voltage means bad FICM components, but not vice-versa.

I have seen many examples of failed FICMs that tested good with just the voltage test.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Good voltage does not necessarily mean that the FICM is good.

Bad voltage means bad FICM components, but not vice-versa.

I have seen many examples of failed FICMs that tested good with just the voltage test.
Any other tests that can be performed to determine? Would the FICM throw a code??

Side note...I hooked her up to the F450 tonight and let her charge until the batteries were at 12.5. She then just cranked over like a jet.
 

·
WNY Biodiesel Co-op
Joined
·
915 Posts
Just tested the batteries after it sitting for 24hrs...they're down to 11.5 :tard:
Get the batteries load tested . To charge the batteries you need a good battery charger and at least 24hrs. or more. Then disconnect the charger , disconnect the battery cables , so you test each battery separately . Let the batteries sit for at least an hour before testing voltage. You should have at least 12.5 volts. But load testing is the only sure way to tell if the battery is good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Even if the batteries are weak...when boosting should it really even matter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
On a side note. Will the glow plug light on the dash still cycle if the PCIM is dead?
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top